XE 1000 Compressor won't start


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Old 09-04-11, 09:39 AM
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XE 1000 Compressor won't start

My 16 year old XE 1000 unit won't blow cold air. Everything else seams to be functioning. I tried to manually start the compressor by manually holding the contact down. The fan starts and I can hear the compressor try but won't kick-in. Do I have a bad run-start capacitor?
 
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Old 09-04-11, 10:29 AM
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I would replace the capacitor.
 
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Old 09-04-11, 02:34 PM
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Have you had to replace one?
 
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Old 09-04-11, 03:07 PM
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Capacitors commonly (but not always) swell on top when they fail. A flat top does not always mean it is okay but a swollen top aways means it is bad.




Your symptoms sound like a bad cap.
Do you have a start (back plastic) and run (aluminum or grey plastic) capacitor on your unit?

 
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Old 09-04-11, 08:57 PM
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I need to look at what I have. Looking at the diagram there is a possibility that 1 (HERM) of the 2 capacitors within the start capacitor maybe bad. That is why the fan turns on and the other one just doesn't charge enough to kick the compressor over. It makes sense to me now. I'll look at it tomorrow. Thank you!

What do you think about the kick-start or start-kick capacitor kits? When installed, do they just replace the start capacitor because they are installed in parallel?

Thank you for your time and information. I really appreciate it.
 
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Old 09-04-11, 09:58 PM
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I only like start kits that grab Common, Start, and Run. I do not use 2 wire start kits that grab Start and Run.

Start kits do not replace run capacitors since the start relay only allows the start capacitor to be in the circuit a short time. (If that is what you refer to)
 
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Old 09-05-11, 08:18 AM
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It's pouring out there so I haven't had a chance to look at the run cap. From what you are telling me It sounds like I should replace the run cap.

I have an identicle unit next to it. After I check the cap to determine if the HERM is shorted to ground, do you recommend that I should try the run cap from the other unit to see if it works? Is there any risk that I may blow that cap? From what I wrote earlier, do you believe that the compressor may have shorted windings?
 
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Old 09-05-11, 08:58 AM
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Picture attachments

I just got a chance to look at the cap. I'm really excited to inform you that you are right-on. The cap is bulging compared to the good one. I'll post the pics.

Do you believe I should also replace the contact?
 

Last edited by fkmore; 09-05-11 at 09:05 AM. Reason: I'm trying to figure out how to add image attachments. I'm not sure how to add to a URL.
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Old 09-05-11, 09:07 AM
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It is probably the run cap. I have at least 6 meters that measure capacitance so it is tough for me to advise someone to replace parts without proving that this is necessary.

By identical unit, do you mean that it is the same tonnage? Run caps get bigger as tonnage increases with most units. The unit size is the 3 numbers after TTR in the model number. (divide by 12)

The greatest risk in trying the other cap is if it is very rusty an fails to make good contact after you remove it.

I do not believe that your compressor has shorted windings.

Be sure to connect the replacement dual capacitor with orange to herm, 2 reds to Com, and brown with yellow stripe to Fan. (if a universal motor has been installed the dual cap Fan may not be in use)

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Old 09-05-11, 09:11 AM
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Pictures can be posted on this site using Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket



left click the IMG Code, right click and paste on your post.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 09:27 AM
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You need a new dual cap, match the two microfarad values and voltage (370VAC or 440VAC).
If you replace the contactor as well, be sure to get one with a 24VAC coil.
It looks like you have a single pole contactor.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 10:06 AM
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Identical units in every way. Therefore, I'm assuming the caps should also be identicle. I do have the schematic and parts lists.

Heat Pump - AWR/TWR036C100A1
Capacitor - CPT0656 Dual, 45/45 MFD, 440V, Round w/o resistor (c)
Contactor - CTR0516 Compressor Motor 30 amp, 1 pole, 24v coil (MS) 1

Should I also replace the contactor, as well? This one seems to function both automatically and manually. I say this because it does turn the fan on.

Also, my brother-in-law is sending me a kick-start kit later this afternoon. Do you believe I should try it to see if it will kick the compressor on? Is there any risk?
 
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Old 09-05-11, 10:58 AM
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Replace the bad cap with a new one, and be done with it. Based on the info you've posted, there is no reason to replace the contactor.

Don't install a hard-start kit yet - there is no reason to think that it's needed. A hard-start kit increases starting current and increases the motor's temperature rise during starts. Let's take one step at a time here. I fear that you are getting ahead of yourself.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 11:31 AM
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Capacitor - CPT0656 Dual, 45/45 MFD, 440V, Round w/o resistor (c)
Perhaps you meant a 45/5MFD dual cap...

Contactors wear out, a new one might be a good idea.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 11:42 AM
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You have a recipricating compressor, the start cap of an OEM start kit will read about 108/130mfd. Most scroll kickstarts have 3 to 4 times that. I woudn't use a 327mfd start cap.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 12:49 PM
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Yes typo - s/b Capacitor - CPT0656 Dual, 45/5 MFD, 440V, Round w/o resistor (c)
 
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Old 09-05-11, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
Contactors wear out, a new one might be a good idea.
And while you are at it, replace all the caps and contactors in both identical units. Maybe the fan motors, too - they also wear out. As do compressors.
 
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Old 09-05-11, 05:22 PM
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They don't have points that wear out like contactors.
I don't recommend replacing the motor or compressor.:NO NO NO:
 
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Old 09-09-11, 09:35 PM
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Houston 204 and gilmorrie,

I finally replaced the capacitor on my unit and it is still working. Thank you for all your help. I'm very greatful. Job well done!
 
 

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