Somebody Wake Me Please!

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  #1  
Old 06-25-12, 06:08 PM
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Somebody Wake Me Please!

Yes, the A/C nightmare is still ongoing....

Background: Replaced 24V wiring from attic and contactor, which solved the problem for three days. Then the motor died...and after waiting a week plus to receive it, the fan assembly broke when I attempted to remove it. Another week later, the motor and fan are installed and running, but...

The air coming from the vents is HOT. What the heck is going on?

Some of the other threads cite the capacitor as the issue. I've replaced nearly everything else. What do you think?

What kind of cap do I need? The cap in the unit is unmarked.

Model No.: AJ036G1
Listed Condensing Unit 686S
Style No.: 36DCA-000093ZR
Serial No. L943075526
MFR No: AJ036G1

Grady? Help!

Thanks. I'm not sure how much more I can take of this.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-25-12, 06:14 PM
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Oh Lord.....Dude I feel for you!

If the comp, comp fan, and air handler are running...but you still have hot air......you may have to bite the bullet and call someone.

I thought you already replaced the cap? You should always replace the cap when you replace the fan motor.

Is the comp running?
 
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Old 06-25-12, 06:32 PM
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I found the compressor turns on for a moment, then shuts off.

I did not replace the capacitor...the AC pro that helped get me through the first phase of the nightmare told me the capacitor tested "good."
 
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Old 06-26-12, 04:03 AM
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50 + 5 mfd 370V (I would replace it with 440V) and I would also add a hard start kit such as the 5-2-1 compressor saver kit.
 
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Old 06-26-12, 04:17 AM
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Is this what you mean?

Run Capacitor, 50/5 MFD, 440 VAC, Round - Capacitors - Motor Supplies - 2MEK2 : Grainger Industrial Supply

The old one had three connectors, but the new motor came with a capacitor (for the motor only) and the instructions said to remove the connection labeled "fan" on the old cap. The old cap only has two connections currently. This cap has two connectors.

Also what is "a hard start kit such as the 5-2-1 compressor saver kit" and where will I find one?
 
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Old 06-26-12, 05:21 AM
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Do a Google search for the hard start and you will find it. Yes. That is the cap. If you are now going to use a 2 cap installation then you only need a 50 mfd cap for the compressor but I still recommend the hard start kit.
 
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Old 06-26-12, 06:44 AM
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I got a 50 +5 370/440V cap. I imagine it will still work properly, it is just more than I need, right?

I bought the cap before I got the reply...can I add the "hard start kit" afterward? I definitely want the 5-2-1 kit, especially based on what I've read about it. Which one should i get?

For edification, what is the difference between a 50/5 and a 50 + 5 cap?
 
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Old 06-26-12, 07:43 AM
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They are the same. And yes it can be added later.
 
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Old 06-26-12, 08:26 AM
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There are three different hard start units:

CSRU1
CSRU2
CSRU3

My device is a single unit that cools a 1400 sq ft ranch in SC, (when it works).

Which one do I need?

az
 
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Old 06-26-12, 08:42 AM
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Csru2 you have a three ton system
 
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Old 06-26-12, 12:55 PM
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How do we feel about this one?

Hard Start Kit, AC Compressor - Cooling Equipment Relays - HVAC Controls - 4E240 : Grainger Industrial Supply

I only ask because it's in stock at my local Grainger and i can get it today.
 
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Old 06-26-12, 02:00 PM
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That will work too. I think the 521 is better because of the type of relay used.
 
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Old 06-28-12, 05:40 PM
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...agreed, but it's not available locally.

I picked up a hard start capacitor and connected it. Still the same problem. The compressor buzzes for about 2 seconds and shuts off. I've replaced every working component in the condenser unit with the exception of the pressure sensor switch and the compressor itself.

Sounds like the compressor is the problem, doesn't it? Could it be the pressure switch?
 
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Old 06-28-12, 07:38 PM
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no, its the compressor..................
 
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Old 08-17-12, 07:07 AM
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Where did you find the motor from? Looks like I'm fixing to join you in your nightmare.
 
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Old 08-17-12, 12:23 PM
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Hot or room temperature air?
 
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Old 08-17-12, 01:49 PM
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Have you checked all the wiring for corrosion/dirty connectors? Once they corrode the resistance goes up making them heat up, then they corrode even more and obviously heat up more. See my thread where one terminal was completely gone from the heat:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai...t-cooling.html

Have you opened all covers to check all the wiring? Recrimp any slip on connectors that show signs of corrosion in the crimp area. Connectors are the most unreliable part in electrical systems and these are not gas tight meaning that gases such as air can get between the two metal conductors and cause corrosion. Soldering and wire-wrap are gas tight for example.

My parents 30+ year old system had a similar problem where probably one of the electrical screws was loose at the breaker. Got worse over the years until that connection on the breaker was completely shot - screw and wire melted. Replaced the breaker last summer and it is working fine again.
 
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