Corsaire AC unit without Freon Flow

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Old 10-28-12, 05:56 PM
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Corsaire AC unit without Freon Flow

Unit was installed about eight years ago and cooling has gone to nothing. I pulled the outside condenser covers and cleaned the unit today. It was filthy. I confirmed the unit has Freon and the condenser fan works fine. There is no change in low or high side pressure with the unit on and I suspect the compressor is not coming on. Any suggestions ?
Unit is Corsaire model number 10AJB48A01 and Serial number 6937 T4504 10286 with compressor R.L.A. 26.6/26.6 RLA 150
I am EPA certified with tons of experience with R12 and R134 on vehicles.

Mike
 
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Old 10-28-12, 07:06 PM
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I am sorry, regardless of your certifications, we will not give you any information on sealed system repairs or pressures. See: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai...ng-your-c.html

However, do you have a clamp-on amp meter? If so, can you check the amp draw with the unit running? Is your capacitor bulged or swollen?
 
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Old 10-28-12, 07:58 PM
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I understand your position on sealed system repairs. I do have an ammeter and will check the amp draw. I will also take a look at the capacitor.
Thanks
 
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Old 10-30-12, 03:49 PM
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The fan on this unit is drawing .74 amps. Total system draw from the condenser unit is 1.01 Amps. The end of the capacitor is not deformed but I did not remove it completely. There are three wires going to the compressor. Red, Black and purple. The purple wire goes to the capacitor. Voltage measurement between the black and red shows 230 volts, between the purple and black is also 230 volts. The Compressor is drawing zero amp and the temperature also confirms it is not running.
 
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Old 10-30-12, 04:30 PM
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Sounds like you may have an open winding. You need to ohm out the windings at the compressor.
 
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Old 10-31-12, 04:25 PM
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The schematic should be on the back of the electrical access panel.

With the power off, discharge the capacitors (with a well insulated!) screwdriver - otherwise you'll get zapped if a winding is open.

The compressor has three wires - start, run and common. Use the schematic to determine which wire is which.

Disconnect the compressor wires and check the resistance between...

R and C -> should be low but not zero or open
S and C -> should be low but not zero or open
R and S -> The resistance of R-S in ohms should equal S-C+R-C

If R-S seems fine yet R-C and S-C are open, the compressor's thermal limit is open. Allow the compressor to cool down before doing further testing.

If the resistance between R-S is infinity, either there's a bad connection at the compressor or the compressor is internally damaged.

If the compressor tries to start every few minutes yet the windings are okay, change the run capacitor. (or check it if your meter reads capacitance) If it doesn't start in spite of having a good capacitor and windings, try a hard start kit. (google it)
 
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Old 11-22-12, 06:24 PM
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WOW - Ran the test you guys suggested and found the common tested open. Pulled the plastic cover off the compressor where the wires attach and sure enough, the connector had corroded away and the common was just laying in there. Cleaned it up and put on a new connector and she blows cold again. Thanks for guiding me to saving a grand or two on replacement compressor or condensor.Mike
 
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Old 11-22-12, 06:27 PM
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Thanks for the help. She is working fine now.
 
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