Condenser fan won't stay on

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Old 06-13-13, 03:48 PM
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Condenser fan won't stay on

I am a complete newbie when dealing with central air. However, I am handy and a quick learner. Searched the threads for help but haven't found the answer, so posting.

Short background: ac unit wasn't blowing cold air but was running. Called a repairman who came and diagnosed the problem was a bad bearing in the fan motor and would need to replace but he would have to order motor. So I decided to do it myself. Got a new motor and capacitor. Installed them both and started working. It did not last. I am currently able to (at times) turn the ac on via the thermostat and get the fan to start. Cool air comes into my home. However, it will only last about 30-40 min then the fan stops working. I then turn it all off via the thermostat so as to not cause any damage. I am then able to get it to turn on by the same process in about 2 hours. Please help with any suggestions.
 
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Old 06-13-13, 03:58 PM
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Look on the condenser nomenclature for the fan motor FLA and horsepower.
look on your new motor nomenclature for your new FLA
and horsepower.
If either value is less on the new motor it will overamp and drop out.

So if the factory motor was 1.9FLA and your new motor is 1.4 FLA it will overamp and drop out.
 
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Old 06-13-13, 04:42 PM
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Thank you for responding. I ordered the motor by the make and model number of the original motor that came in the unit. I also got the exact same capacitor and wired everything according to the pics I took before dismantling the unit.
 

Last edited by hvactechfw; 06-23-13 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 06-13-13, 07:42 PM
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Someone, anyone please help. About to have some really hot texas days soon. If I need to call a repair man I need to do it before the weekend. Can't afford him but really can't afford weekend rates!
 
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Old 06-13-13, 08:39 PM
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Post some pictures of the unit nomenclature, old motor tag and new motor tag and the way you wired it.

Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing
 
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Old 06-13-13, 10:03 PM
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Trying to figure out how to post pics. Reading faq. If this helps: both motors are 1/4 hp, 830 rpm, 60hz, PH 1, volts 208-230, cap 5, 370 vac. Original motor was 1.6 amp. New motor 1.5 amp. I'm sure this won't help without knowing the model but the brown wire from the fan connected to the FAN terminal on the capacitor, purple to C, black to an electrical board. There was also a red wire placed back on the C and yellow on HERM.
 
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Old 06-14-13, 06:16 PM
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Something strange happened that may help with diagnosis. While I was at work I periodically checked in with my wife to make sure she turned of the ac if the outside fan stopped. It worked all day long (hottest day since it went out) until an hour ago! Now it won't when turned on via the tstat. What does that mean? I will figure out how to post the pics if you still want to see them.
 
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Old 06-14-13, 06:24 PM
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Question

After that last post, I turned on the ac via the tstat and now the outside fan is running! Will post again if the system runs correct until it reaches the programed temp, or if/when it doesn't. Also if anyone responds with ANY knowledge that may help.
 
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Old 06-14-13, 09:01 PM
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The black wire on a circuit board
Sounds like you have a heat pump with a defrost control board.

The defrost control board might require some investigation.

Do you have a meter? Is the new motor getting 240VAC between purple and black when it drops out?

The make and model number of your condenser might allow me to bring up a diagram.

An example...




Pictures would also be of great assistance.


Universal motors are reversible. Does your fan discharge air out the top of the condenser when running?

It is very hot in Texas now and I'm on call again, so responses from me can be delayed.
 
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Old 06-14-13, 11:02 PM
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125v on purple, 125v on black. Model: Goodman GSH140361AA. Should have some pics up tomorrow before work.
 
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Old 06-14-13, 11:46 PM
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Do not measure purple to ground. Measure purple to black (DF2) when it has dropped out.


The 2 choices should be 240(ish) or 0.

 

Last edited by Houston204; 06-15-13 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 06-15-13, 07:41 PM
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Sorry I haven't responded sooner, I had to work a long day. My wife said it cycled off once when I was at work but it hasn't since. ???
 
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Old 06-16-13, 05:25 PM
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It finally dropped out and I have 0 on purple to black.
 
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Old 06-16-13, 07:34 PM
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Is the contactor pulled in when it drops out?
If not, measure for 24VAC between C and Y entering your heat pump.
If you do not have 24VAC between C and Y, check for a float switch tripping at your indoor unit.



If the contactor does pull in when drop out occurs...
Do you still have 240VAC between DF1 and purple when it drops out?
 
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Old 06-17-13, 06:59 PM
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The contactor is not pulled in when dropped out. Measured between C & Y (at the board) and do not have 24VAC. Found float switch but can't tell if it is tripping. How do I know if it us tripping? (Just in case that was a typo, and you meant dripping, it is dripping slow from).
 
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Old 06-17-13, 09:13 PM
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Float switches work much like a toilet tank float. If the float rises due to high water, it opens the circuit. (as apposed to shutting off water, it shuts off power) .

 
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Old 06-18-13, 12:26 PM
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From what I could tell the float was tripped. I have an Aquaguard AG-3100. I uncrewed the float cap and water came out.
 
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Old 06-18-13, 07:27 PM
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I usually blow drains with a compressed nitrogen tank, but I occasionally use this tool.
The refill CO2 cartridges are the same ones used in BB guns.

 
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Old 06-18-13, 07:33 PM
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I do not like the type of float switch that you have.
I usually replace that type with one of the models that I posted.
 
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Old 06-19-13, 05:50 PM
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So I need to blow the drain with the tool you posted, correct? If so, what is the proper technique to do so? Also, would it be in my best interest to replace my float switch with one you posted?
 
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Old 06-19-13, 07:55 PM
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You might be able to remove the air handler panel and place the end of a drain cleaning gun at the drain outlet to blow the drain. I read that some DIYers have used a shop vac but have never tried it.

I recommend adding a 3/4" pvc ball valve (between a tee and the air handler) and a pvc Tee to allow you to close off a valve and easily blow out the drain.
Of course you would need a small bucket to catch water if the drain is backed up when you do this. I use the blue, wet location, pvc glue.

Any float switch that stays in constant contact with water is more prone to growing slime and hanging up. So I do not like any inline float switches. They work better on the lip of a secondary pan. Looks like that one screws to the secondary outlet on the air handler.

I like the aquagaurd that I pictured because it secures well with thumb screws. When I install the other model of float switch that I posted I shoot a screw into it to keep it from rocking.

Do you have a secondary pan under your air handler?
 
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Old 06-22-13, 07:35 PM
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Sorry, I haven't responded sooner. Really busy at work. I will check to see if I have a secondary pan. Tomorrow after work and respond back. Thank you with all the help.
 
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