Goodman ARUF A/C Heater will not run
#1
04-02-14, 12:18 PM
Goodman ARUF A/C Heater will not run
Initially the heater would not come on. The fan does not even run on manual. While looking at the system I bumped it and it started (like having a loose wire). It ran for a couple days then stopped again. After flipping the main switch on the system it started. Eventually, the 'bumping', 'tapping' switching' method no longer worked. I've replaced the thermostat; not the problem. I checked the two thermal switches and both are good.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
thanx,
fred
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
thanx,
fred
#2
04-02-14, 12:43 PM
I would stick with the loose wire problem. Check to make sure all the wires are connected tight on the control board.
#4
04-04-14, 10:21 AM
Thanks all, and thanks for the reminder to cut the power before doing ANYTHING.
I checked all wire connections inside the control area. Did not find any loose or suspicious ones. The A/C, heater, and fan do not run. Could the problem be the capacitor on the blower motor? I ask because this is the next simplest thing to get to. What should my next step be?
thanx all,
f
I checked all wire connections inside the control area. Did not find any loose or suspicious ones. The A/C, heater, and fan do not run. Could the problem be the capacitor on the blower motor? I ask because this is the next simplest thing to get to. What should my next step be?
thanx all,
f
#7
04-04-14, 06:59 PM
Group Moderator
In the picture.... 1 is the sequencer.
I'm guessing you put the thermostat to FAN ON and the fan didn't work. When you put the thermostat in A/C mode.... did the outside unit come on ?
I'm guessing you put the thermostat to FAN ON and the fan didn't work. When you put the thermostat in A/C mode.... did the outside unit come on ?
#8
04-04-14, 07:20 PM
Correct. When I put the thermostat to A/C and set the set point 10 degrees below the room temp the outside unit DID NOT come on. I waited much longer than the delay time (I probably waited 10 minutes).
f
f
#9
04-04-14, 07:57 PM
Group Moderator
I'm guessing your unit is similar to the picture Houston posted.
In the picture...... #2 is next to the 24vac transformer. I would turn power off and check those wires for connection. Pull them off and put back one at a time.
If that doesn't help.... the next thing to do would be to check for 240vac on one side of the transformer and 24vac on the other side of the transformer. For this test you'll need to power on so be careful.
In the picture...... #2 is next to the 24vac transformer. I would turn power off and check those wires for connection. Pull them off and put back one at a time.
If that doesn't help.... the next thing to do would be to check for 240vac on one side of the transformer and 24vac on the other side of the transformer. For this test you'll need to power on so be careful.
#10
04-06-14, 07:56 AM
All,
If the thermostat wire were broken (such as a squirrel chewing through it in the attic) would that have the seen effects (nothing running)?
thanx,
f
If the thermostat wire were broken (such as a squirrel chewing through it in the attic) would that have the seen effects (nothing running)?
thanx,
f
#11
04-06-14, 09:47 AM
Group Moderator
I'm fairly certain if something chewed thru the wire you could have that problem. 
Now you have to use your voltmeter to find where you are losing power. You have to start at the furnace.
Now you have to use your voltmeter to find where you are losing power. You have to start at the furnace.
#12
04-14-14, 08:52 AM
Sorry it's been a few days since a reply; hasn't been cold or hot so been having fun rather than worrying with H/AV!!. I installed the new thermostat right at the air handler (to check possible broken stat wire) and got same results.
Checked voltage in and out of transformer. High voltage side was good. NOTHING on low voltage side. Do transformers fail very often? In all my years (70+) I don't recall one ever failing.
thanx,
f
Checked voltage in and out of transformer. High voltage side was good. NOTHING on low voltage side. Do transformers fail very often? In all my years (70+) I don't recall one ever failing.
thanx,
f
#13
04-14-14, 11:08 PM
Group Moderator
Maybe when you "bumped" the wiring you caused a short. Transformers rarely go bad unless they are shorted or hit with a high voltage surge.
#14
04-15-14, 05:51 AM
Thanx PJmax. I saw nothing near the controls that could have caused a short. And those were my thoughts -- transformers do not fail!! But on the low voltage side I got nothing.
Oh Oh, I think I goofed!! I was measuring for DC voltage. Is the low voltage side AC or DC? DUH me.
thanx,
f
Oh Oh, I think I goofed!! I was measuring for DC voltage. Is the low voltage side AC or DC? DUH me.
thanx,
f
#16
04-17-14, 04:36 PM
Relay Problem
Both sets of contacts in the relay on the EBTDR board are closed (no resistance across them). I measured the contacts with the power off at the main breaker. Can this relay be replaced or do I need to replace the entire EBTDR board?
thanx,
f
thanx,
f
#17
04-17-14, 04:56 PM
Group Moderator
Those relays are not considered replaceable.
If you have no power to the unit..... the relay should be sitting there with its contacts open. The contacts only close when power is applied
If you have no power to the unit..... the relay should be sitting there with its contacts open. The contacts only close when power is applied
#18
04-18-14, 04:55 AM
Thanx PJmax.
The wiring diagram shows one set of contacts as NC and the other as NO. I understood this was the normal position when the was no power to the system. Am I misunderstanding?
Second part. I can find a new EBTDR board advertised on the internet for about $100. Is that reasonable?
thanx,
f
The wiring diagram shows one set of contacts as NC and the other as NO. I understood this was the normal position when the was no power to the system. Am I misunderstanding?
Second part. I can find a new EBTDR board advertised on the internet for about $100. Is that reasonable?
thanx,
f
#19
04-20-14, 03:53 AM
bump
The wiring diagram shows one set of contacts as NC and the other as NO. I understood this was the normal position when the was no power to the system. Am I misunderstanding?
Second part. I can find a new EBTDR board advertised on the internet for about $100. Is that reasonable?
thanx,
f
The wiring diagram shows one set of contacts as NC and the other as NO. I understood this was the normal position when the was no power to the system. Am I misunderstanding?
Second part. I can find a new EBTDR board advertised on the internet for about $100. Is that reasonable?
thanx,
f
#20
04-20-14, 07:41 AM
Member
As to your question regarding the relays, NC means "Normally Closed", while NO means "Normally Open". This would be the "no power" state. If there is a relay manufacturer's part number (as opposed to a Goodman part number), you may be able to find a replacement relay. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you may be able to repair the board. While I don't know the price of replacement boards, $100 sounds reasonable to me, assuming it's the correct board.
#22
05-24-14, 12:04 PM
Group Moderator
Sorry.... I see you previously bumped the thread and I missed it.
Glad you got it working now.
Glad you got it working now.
