Goodman AC/Heater control board repeat failure

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Old 04-22-14, 08:34 PM
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Goodman AC/Heater control board repeat failure

I have a model GMS80704BNA with an original control board part number B18099-26 and the new replacement I have been using is PCBBF112. It's kind of a long story, but just so you know, the original board going out was my fault. I replaced the original board with the mentioned new OEM. It worked fine for the rest of the winter until a few weeks ago when I turned on my AC. My AC came on and worked for an hour or two and then quit. The new board failed again. It should have a solid red led and there was nothing lit. So, I thought maybe it was just a defective board. I replaced it again and the same thing happened. It ran for a little while and took out the board. I'm thinking maybe the AC runs until the thermostat shuts it off and tries to start it again, but not totally sure. Does anybody have any ideas on this? Is there something with this new board that I need to wire something a little differently for my thermostat.....ritetemp model#8022C? Or do I need to move the voltage jumper from the default place to another setting? I don't remember my original board having that jumper, but it's possible there was something similar on it. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Old 04-22-14, 09:39 PM
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http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...structions.pdf

I don't see a popped fuse error code. Have you checked the fuse?
A common cause for a popped fuse is a short in the wiring to the outdoor unit.
Weed eaters, dogs and mice can cause this short.
 
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Old 04-22-14, 10:03 PM
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The fuse in the defective boards are fine. I suspect one of the ic's are being shorted. Thanks.
 
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Old 04-22-14, 10:05 PM
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Post a pic of your installed board. Someone in this site may spot an error.
 
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Old 04-22-14, 10:14 PM
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OK. It's time for bed now. I did make 100% sure I hooked every wire up to the new board exactly the way it was on the original. But since I am now having this problem, it makes me wonder if something should be hooked differently on the new one, so I will upload pics tomorrow.
 
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Old 04-23-14, 07:10 AM
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Here are the pics. It might be pointless though, because it seems like to me you can't trust what the colors of the wires are, because they seem so far off. Maybe it makes sense to you guys though. The thermostat is on the opposite side of the house and my attic is extremely shallow, so I guess I would have to run my own wire through the house and up into the attic to ohm each one out. This is the way it has been hooked up since I have lived here for the past 6 years and it has always worked fine.



 
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Old 04-23-14, 05:47 PM
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It seems unlikely that the low voltage connections can damage anything other than a fuse.
The high voltage connections look good from those pics.
That is a tiny board.
 
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Old 04-24-14, 09:32 AM
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Ok. That helps. So do you think it is just a coincidence that the first time I turn on my AC and not my heater after the board replacement, it takes it out and it has nothing to do with the new updated and different looking one being incompatible without some kind of adjustments? If that is the case, then what is your best guess that it would be? Thanks again.
 
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Old 04-24-14, 11:59 AM
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I'd measure the ohm readings on the blower motor.
An amperage reading would also be a good idea.

A voltage reading at the low voltage terminals to prove low voltage and a visual inspection of the wiring in the condenser might help isolate the problem.

I have seen start caps pop the top and short to low voltage wiring but it did more damage.
 
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