X13 ECM to PSC Blower Motor Conversion

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  #161  
Old 04-27-14, 12:00 PM
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How do we jump out the stat and the indoor board and check voltage readings at the outdoor unit?
 
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  #162  
Old 04-27-14, 12:41 PM
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Use a wire nut to connect R, G, Y, and O at the stat to by pass the stat.

Connect the blue relay wire currently at SPT to the R terminal, or the blue low voltage transformer wire to bypass the indoor control board.
(providing 24 volts to the relay coil terminal that blue is connected to)
 
  #163  
Old 04-27-14, 12:54 PM
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I'm a little confused. Unplug the blue wire where it is connected to the SPT post? And connect it to the R terminal? Where is the R terminal?
 
  #164  
Old 04-27-14, 12:56 PM
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I'm going to get a haircut.
PJ has helped many people on this site if you cannot wait.

At the heat pump:
You want 24 volts measure between C and: R, Y, and O at the heat pump.
24 volts to Y (read from Y to C) turns on the compressor.
24 volts to O (read from C to O) sets the reversing valve to the cool position.
R is 24 volt power
C is 24 volt common
 
  #165  
Old 04-27-14, 12:58 PM
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Okay, thank you Houston.
 
  #166  
Old 04-27-14, 01:10 PM
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I used a wire nut to connect R, G, Y, and O at the stat.

I then connected the blue relay wire currently at SPT to the blue low voltage transformer wire to bypass the indoor control board.

When I turned on the circuit breaker the blower motor began to run.

I will now check the readings at the heat pump.

Checked heat pump. No power.

When I manually push the points on the outside compressor it turns on and runs.
 
  #167  
Old 04-27-14, 01:39 PM
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The outside unit will run when points switch is manually pressed.
 
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  #168  
Old 04-27-14, 02:28 PM
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Unplug the wire harness to the defrost control outside.
Then...
Check the readings in the orange wire connections by your contactor outside.

Red to blue = ?
yellow to blue = ?
Orange to blue =?

We want 24 volts.
 
  #169  
Old 04-27-14, 02:55 PM
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There are 2 wire harnesses outside.

One harness has 2 orange, 1 yellow and blue, and 1 brown and yellow.

The other harness has 1 black, 1 yellow, 1 white, 1 red and one orange.

Which do I test? Do I test in the plug or on the post?

I assume this is with the power on?
 
  #170  
Old 04-27-14, 03:21 PM
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In one harness:

Orange 45 volts

Orange 45 volts

Yellow/Blue 120 volts

Yellow/Brown 120 volts
 
  #171  
Old 04-27-14, 03:25 PM
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I want the harnesses unplugged so any shorts we may have don't pop the fuse before we prove correct voltage is provided to the heat pump.

Measure at the orange wire nut connections. The two options should be 0 or 24 volts.
 
  #172  
Old 04-27-14, 03:27 PM
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In second harness:

Orange 120 volts

Red 120 volts

White 120 volts

Yellow 120 volts

Black 120 volts
 
  #173  
Old 04-27-14, 03:31 PM
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I do not want harness readings.
We want to see the 24 volt readings in the field installed orange wire nuts.
 
  #174  
Old 04-27-14, 03:34 PM
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When I measure at the orange nut connection, I place one probe on it and the other on what?
 
  #175  
Old 04-27-14, 03:38 PM
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Refer to post 168.........
..
 
  #176  
Old 04-27-14, 03:44 PM
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If I am reading them correctly, the orange are reading 0.20 volts, which I guess is almost 0?
 
  #177  
Old 04-27-14, 03:48 PM
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Describe the technique you are using to measure.
 
  #178  
Old 04-27-14, 03:50 PM
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I'm setting the meter to V, placing one probe on the orange wire and one on the blue wire with nuts removed.
 
  #179  
Old 04-27-14, 03:54 PM
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These are the wires I am testing.
 
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  #180  
Old 04-27-14, 04:36 PM
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That is the correct procedure.
Check red to the body of your heat pump for 24 volts.
Is the fuse popped?
 
  #181  
Old 04-27-14, 04:46 PM
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Fuse is not popped. Still 0.20 volts reading.
 
  #182  
Old 04-27-14, 04:58 PM
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And so ends another day, leading into another hot night here in Orlando, Florida with no A/C.... :HF2:
 
  #183  
Old 04-27-14, 05:06 PM
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The blue transformer wire provides 24 volt power to the stat and the stat sends 24 volts to the heat pump at y and O.
Did you unwire power to the stat when you sent 24 volts to the new fan relay?
 

Last edited by Houston204; 04-27-14 at 05:26 PM.
  #184  
Old 04-27-14, 05:27 PM
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No, I did not. I had the wires at the stat all together with a wire nut.
 
  #185  
Old 04-27-14, 06:42 PM
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What about the air handler SPT bypass?
 
  #186  
Old 04-27-14, 07:16 PM
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I disconnected the blue wire from the SPT and connected it to the wire you told me to.
 
  #187  
Old 04-27-14, 10:11 PM
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Did you add it to the wire between Transformer blue and control board T or is the transformer only supplying voltage to the new relay?
 
  #188  
Old 04-28-14, 09:21 AM
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Actually, you have already proven that the relay operates so you can put transformer blue back where it belongs and move the high voltage wire from the normally open to normally closed terminal. (Usually this means 1 high voltage wire on terminal 1 and the other will temporarily be moved from terminal 3 to terminal 2) A clear picture of the top of the relay would allow verification. This would run the fan for testing and still supply power to the stat.
 
  #189  
Old 04-28-14, 11:52 AM
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I put everything back to it's original place last night.
 
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  #190  
Old 04-28-14, 12:36 PM
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So are we leaning towards any definite diagnosis?
 
  #191  
Old 04-28-14, 04:10 PM
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SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!

Help Beatles-With Lyrics - YouTube
 

Last edited by henry34florida; 04-28-14 at 04:49 PM.
  #192  
Old 04-28-14, 06:20 PM
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Are you able to connect the wire on terminal 3 to the wire on terminal 2?
A Y spade connector would make this much easier.

This would run the fan continuously to allow us to test further.
 
  #193  
Old 04-28-14, 06:31 PM
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Yes, I will do that first thing tomorrow. Are there any tests you can recommend for me to do after I connect them?
 
  #194  
Old 04-28-14, 07:32 PM
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After you get the fan running and connect the transformer to the control board and jump out R,Y,and O at the stat with a wire nut: See if the heat pump runs.

If it does not run, measure common to R and Y and O outside.
If you don't have 24 volts between these 3 wires to the Blue common wire you will need to trace back to every connection until you do have 24 volts.

It would be a good idea to measure a known source of 24 volts so that we are sure that the meter works and that you are using it on the right setting.

It is possible the the wiring between the stat and air handler or between the outdoor unit and air handler is also damaged.

You are using blue for common instead of brown but this diagram may help...
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/HeatPump.jpg
 
  #195  
Old 04-29-14, 12:23 PM
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I went back and re-tested the locations you wanted me to test that I originally tested with the lousy meter. I used the Klein MM 200 and got the following.

24 volts between transformer yellow and blue
240 volts between transformer black and orange
24 volts between T and C at the control board

I wanted to start with the first things you asked me to test.
 
  #196  
Old 04-29-14, 12:43 PM
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Re-tested relay and got these readings.
 
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  #197  
Old 04-29-14, 01:08 PM
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Orange wire from transformer connected to Yellow from blower motor and yellow from air handler = 240 volts.

Yellow wire from transformer connected to brown wire from relay = 120 volts.

Blue wire from transformer connected to red wire from air handler = 96 volts.
 
  #198  
Old 04-29-14, 01:17 PM
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Houston asked: "Are you able to connect the wire on terminal 3 to the wire on terminal 2? A Y spade connector would make this much easier.

This would run the fan continuously to allow us to test further."

Reply: There is currently no wire on terminal 2. Did you mean connect the wire on terminal 3 to the #2 post on the relay?

I was not sure, so I was unable to run the fan continuosly.
 
  #199  
Old 04-29-14, 01:50 PM
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In post # 162, Houston said: " Use a wire nut to connect R, G, Y, and O at the stat to by pass the stat.

Connect the blue relay wire currently at SPT to the R terminal, or the blue low voltage transformer wire to bypass the indoor control board.
(providing 24 volts to the relay coil terminal that blue is connected to)"

Reply: Last time I did this I was able to get the fan motor to blow continuously. This time I tried this and the fan motor would not run.
 
  #200  
Old 04-29-14, 04:05 PM
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Yes, connect #3 wire to #1 wire to run the fan continuously.
Then jumper the stat r,y,and o terminals so that you can go outside and measure the blue wire to orange, yellow and red for 24 volts.




I see that you posted that you have 120 volts where you should have 24 volts.
The relay has 4 wires connected to it. 1 + 3 are high voltage and the other 2 wires are apt and C. If the air handler control board was not damaged 24 volts should be present between the apt and the C wire when R is connected to G. But the indoor board is damaged.
 
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