New Bryant air conditioner not removing humidity
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Replaced 2 ton in Florida with new 2 ton unit. Old unit kept unoccupied condo at 50% RH but new unit does not get below 65%. Installer suggests dehumidifier which was not needed with old unit and cannot get any answers from Bryant. Any suggestions?
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Is it properly charged? Was the correct piston/orifice installed with the new unit? Was the indoor unit replaced as well? Is the new unit even dropping the temperature of the house?
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The new unit does drop the temp of the house and the entire unit, inside, outside, air handler, thermostat, was replaced. Several techs were checking on it and say it is charged properly and everything is working properly, but it still does not take out the humidity. The installer did not want to hook up a humidistat as he said they only problems. He also showed me the compressor operates when a thermostat called for air conditioner did not start the air handler and that is the way Bryant does it according to the installer. They reset the thermostat to 70 degrees to reduce the humidity but I think this will only increase the electrical cost but will do it until I get a dehumidifier. I will check the other points you gave me. It is difficult to work on it when I am 1000 miles away!
The reason I am concerned about the humidity is I do not want mold to start as it can cause a lot of troublesl.
The reason I am concerned about the humidity is I do not want mold to start as it can cause a lot of troublesl.
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Dropping the temp lowers the %RH because the air can't hold as much moisture. Did they do a CFM test and see how mudh air you are moving? I'd say you're pushing too much air. Drop the fan speed and see what happens. You can go down to about 350 CFM per ton.
#6
First, is the unit not oversized?
Is the indoor evap-coil upsized above the tonnage of the condenser?
Is the blower set for 350-CFM per/ton of cooling?
It is an engineering phenomenon:
The new higher SEER units have more evaporator coil and fin area per ton of cooling & the compressor's have a limited/lower volumetric capacity; this results in a higher pressure/temperature of the evap-coil; thus a warmer coil.
If you can drop the CFM low enough, the larger coil might get plenty cold enough.
One of the problems with these high SEER systems is that 'they use a small capacity compressor' that can't pull the suction pressure/temp down like the older 6 & 8 SEER condenser compressor's were able to do.
Also, our 'Rule Maker's' should not have put 10 & 12-SEER condensers on the shelf; the 10-SEER would work more effectively for dehumid in some high humid zones.
There are compromises going to these larger condenser & evap coils with their added refrigerant capacities...the older units used to operate with a lower evap-pressure/temperature resulting in better dehumid. They don't tell these realities...but they should!
Is the indoor evap-coil upsized above the tonnage of the condenser?
Is the blower set for 350-CFM per/ton of cooling?
It is an engineering phenomenon:
The new higher SEER units have more evaporator coil and fin area per ton of cooling & the compressor's have a limited/lower volumetric capacity; this results in a higher pressure/temperature of the evap-coil; thus a warmer coil.
If you can drop the CFM low enough, the larger coil might get plenty cold enough.
One of the problems with these high SEER systems is that 'they use a small capacity compressor' that can't pull the suction pressure/temp down like the older 6 & 8 SEER condenser compressor's were able to do.
Also, our 'Rule Maker's' should not have put 10 & 12-SEER condensers on the shelf; the 10-SEER would work more effectively for dehumid in some high humid zones.
There are compromises going to these larger condenser & evap coils with their added refrigerant capacities...the older units used to operate with a lower evap-pressure/temperature resulting in better dehumid. They don't tell these realities...but they should!