Honeywell Compressor Contactor Upgrade Problem
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Honeywell Compressor Contactor Upgrade Problem
I ordered a replacement compressor contactor (Honeywell P/N R8242A 1032) and received a replacement contactor (Honeywell P/N DP1025A 5006) because the original part is obsolete. Here's my problem: The two parts do not have the same wiring designations and I am unsure how to wire this new part up to my unit.
The R8242A 1032 has terminals T1, T3, L1, L3, and two terminals labeled "C".
The DP1025 5006 has terminals T1, T2, L1, L2, A1 and A2.
I attempted wiring the new contactor in the following manner:
The wires that were connected to T1 went to T1 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to L1 went to L1 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to T3 went to T2 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to L3 went to L2 on the new part.
The two common wires on terminals "C" went to A1 and A2 on the new part.
This resulted in the compressor fan running continuously even with the inside unit turned off at the thermostat. It was my belief that the compressor and fan shouldn't turn on unless the inside blower unit turns on so I immediately shut the outside unit down, disconnected the new contactor part and reinstalled the original part until I can get this resolved.
I contacted Honeywell regarding this difference in terminal labeling over a week ago and have not received any response from them. Any help I can receive regarding this matter will be greatly appreciated.
The R8242A 1032 has terminals T1, T3, L1, L3, and two terminals labeled "C".
The DP1025 5006 has terminals T1, T2, L1, L2, A1 and A2.
I attempted wiring the new contactor in the following manner:
The wires that were connected to T1 went to T1 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to L1 went to L1 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to T3 went to T2 on the new part.
The wires that were connected to L3 went to L2 on the new part.
The two common wires on terminals "C" went to A1 and A2 on the new part.
This resulted in the compressor fan running continuously even with the inside unit turned off at the thermostat. It was my belief that the compressor and fan shouldn't turn on unless the inside blower unit turns on so I immediately shut the outside unit down, disconnected the new contactor part and reinstalled the original part until I can get this resolved.
I contacted Honeywell regarding this difference in terminal labeling over a week ago and have not received any response from them. Any help I can receive regarding this matter will be greatly appreciated.
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Is the original contactor , one switched pole or two ?
Is the new contactor , one switched pole or two ?
The pics should help .
The wires I would expect to see ;
Two small 24 VAC wires that go to the contactor coil .
Two larger wires , incoming 240 VAC power , the L leads .
Two fairly large wires , to the compressor and / or compressor capacitor . The T leads , 240 VAC out going .
The wires to the condenser fan and / or condenser fan capacitor should wire to the T terminals or some where else the T wires .
If one contactor only has one switched pole and the other has two switched poles , Wiring will end up slightly different .
Did you observe the contactor pulling in , when the 24 VAC wires were energized ?
God bless
Wyr
Is the new contactor , one switched pole or two ?
The pics should help .
The wires I would expect to see ;
Two small 24 VAC wires that go to the contactor coil .
Two larger wires , incoming 240 VAC power , the L leads .
Two fairly large wires , to the compressor and / or compressor capacitor . The T leads , 240 VAC out going .
The wires to the condenser fan and / or condenser fan capacitor should wire to the T terminals or some where else the T wires .
If one contactor only has one switched pole and the other has two switched poles , Wiring will end up slightly different .
Did you observe the contactor pulling in , when the 24 VAC wires were energized ?
God bless
Wyr
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Pics of Honeywell Contactors and Answers to Questions
To follow up on the two very fast replies (Thank you!) I will supply answers and photos of the two contactors:
The original (Old) contactor is photographed correctly wired up to the compressor unit. It works, but the exposed contacts are very worn which is why I decided to order a replacement contactor.
The top two photos are of the new, replacement part. The bottom two photos are of the original part.
Both contactors are single pole, single throw, 25 amp, 24VAC. As you can see from the bottom two photos, the original contactor has exposed contacts, whereas the replacement contactor (2nd photo from top) is sealed with the contacts out of plain view. I could not see whether or not the contacts were "making" when I installed it and applied power. All I know is that the compressor fan ran continuously when the new part was wired as I mentioned in the original post. At any rate, it does not work properly when wired best terminal to terminal (ie: T1 wires to T1 terminal on new part. The new part has T2 instead of T3 and L2 instead of L3, which the old part has and instead of two common "C" terminals, the new part has terminals "A1" and "A2". This is where my confusion comes in. Apparently terminals T1 on the old part may not be terminal T1 on the new part. This is where I hope you experts can shed more light on this topic for me. Thanks again for your very rapid responses!
The original (Old) contactor is photographed correctly wired up to the compressor unit. It works, but the exposed contacts are very worn which is why I decided to order a replacement contactor.
The top two photos are of the new, replacement part. The bottom two photos are of the original part.
Both contactors are single pole, single throw, 25 amp, 24VAC. As you can see from the bottom two photos, the original contactor has exposed contacts, whereas the replacement contactor (2nd photo from top) is sealed with the contacts out of plain view. I could not see whether or not the contacts were "making" when I installed it and applied power. All I know is that the compressor fan ran continuously when the new part was wired as I mentioned in the original post. At any rate, it does not work properly when wired best terminal to terminal (ie: T1 wires to T1 terminal on new part. The new part has T2 instead of T3 and L2 instead of L3, which the old part has and instead of two common "C" terminals, the new part has terminals "A1" and "A2". This is where my confusion comes in. Apparently terminals T1 on the old part may not be terminal T1 on the new part. This is where I hope you experts can shed more light on this topic for me. Thanks again for your very rapid responses!
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OK, I think I see the problem, take T1 on old contactor to T2 on new. Take T3 on old to T1 on new.
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Thank you for your quick response. So this means that I place the wires going to terminals T1/T3 on the old part to terminal T2/T1 respectively on the new part. O.K. What about the L2 vs L3 terminals on the two parts? Since I am swapping the "T" wires should I then swap the "L" terminal wires as well? (ie: L1 on old part to L2 on new part, and L3 on the old part to L1 on the new part? I am assuming that the "A" terminals on either side of the new part are the common connections and should be have the wires that were on terminals "C" on the old part connected to them. Would this be accurate?
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It doesn't matter on the L wires. I can't see the C terminals, the A1 and A2 on the new are your 24v coming from the stat. On the old that would be your brown and yellow wires.
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The black and white wires on the old contactor look to be your incoming 240 VAC ?
T3 looks to have an orange and a red wire ? T1 looks to have 2 black wires ?
On the new contactor , the thing that looks like a black button , should move in and out , as the contactor turns off and on . Should pull in / down when turned on / energized .
Incoming 240 VAC ( black and white ) would go to L1 & L2 of the new contactor . Should not matter which goes to which . But to remain consistent , put black on L2 & white on L1 .
I would put the orange and the red on T1 . The 2 blacks on T2 . As said , the yellow and red on A1 & A2 , should not matter which goes to which .
This should work . The black " button " should pull in when the tstat calls for cool & energizes the contactor .
This may be what you have done & what others have told you to do . If so , please forgive me . Early in the morning and I am still working on my coffee .
God bless
Wyr
T3 looks to have an orange and a red wire ? T1 looks to have 2 black wires ?
On the new contactor , the thing that looks like a black button , should move in and out , as the contactor turns off and on . Should pull in / down when turned on / energized .
Incoming 240 VAC ( black and white ) would go to L1 & L2 of the new contactor . Should not matter which goes to which . But to remain consistent , put black on L2 & white on L1 .
I would put the orange and the red on T1 . The 2 blacks on T2 . As said , the yellow and red on A1 & A2 , should not matter which goes to which .
This should work . The black " button " should pull in when the tstat calls for cool & energizes the contactor .
This may be what you have done & what others have told you to do . If so , please forgive me . Early in the morning and I am still working on my coffee .
God bless
Wyr
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A Very Big "THANK YOU"
WyrTwister and skaggsje
You both hit the right combination. The replacement contactor works as it should. I could have ruined my compressor components had it not been for your generous advice and support to this excellent forum!
It never ceases to amaze me how manufacturers of electrical components opt to completely redesignate terminal connections on new generation parts designed to replace the original parts they built in the first place. It makes sense to me that they would maintain the same terminal designations as the original part when they upgrade a component. Maybe they do it so an electrician wannabe like me won't try to save a bunch of $$$ by doing the maintenance work myself.
I really appreciate your knowledge, experience and dedication toward helping those of us lacking electrical know-how and money to pay for professional assistance. Thanks again!
Don Guimond
You both hit the right combination. The replacement contactor works as it should. I could have ruined my compressor components had it not been for your generous advice and support to this excellent forum!
It never ceases to amaze me how manufacturers of electrical components opt to completely redesignate terminal connections on new generation parts designed to replace the original parts they built in the first place. It makes sense to me that they would maintain the same terminal designations as the original part when they upgrade a component. Maybe they do it so an electrician wannabe like me won't try to save a bunch of $$$ by doing the maintenance work myself.
I really appreciate your knowledge, experience and dedication toward helping those of us lacking electrical know-how and money to pay for professional assistance. Thanks again!
Don Guimond
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You are quite welcome . :-)
The contactor is an example of a " generic " part , off the shelf . Dozens of companies either make them or re-brand them and sell them under their name / brand .
They will pretty much work if they will physically fit .
Next year , some other company may be low bid and may get the contract to sell them to the HVAC manufacturer .
God bless
Wyr
The contactor is an example of a " generic " part , off the shelf . Dozens of companies either make them or re-brand them and sell them under their name / brand .
They will pretty much work if they will physically fit .
Next year , some other company may be low bid and may get the contract to sell them to the HVAC manufacturer .
God bless
Wyr
#11
Use this thread as a guideline. If it doesn't help..... feel free to start a new thread. You should post your old contactor and new contractor in your thread.
This thread will be placed in our searchable archives where it will always be available for reference.
This thread will be placed in our searchable archives where it will always be available for reference.