Trane unit no longer blows COLD air...

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  #1  
Old 06-29-14, 02:33 AM
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Trane unit no longer blows COLD air...

So I'm 90% sure I will be getting an HVAC specialist out here asap however I have had the absolute worst experience with not only businesses but side job contractors. Businesses send their guys who try to side job me ... side job people come by and charge me to look then never answer my calls to fix or give me an answer that makes no sense.

Anyways.. sorry for rant it's 88* in here at 4am. Background...

I purchased my home in 2008 (built 2005) as a foreclosure. Unfortunately first time home owner for both wife and I we didn't know the ins and outs of maintenence so we didn't keep out unit up to par. We would go 3-6 months sometimes before changing filters and we never cleaned the outside unit. Just me being honest. Well 2 years ago or so my ac was not blowing cold air. After a little research I figured it was capacitor so replaced that and it worked like a charm. Last fall I noticed my a/c would cut on and off by itself. It started rarely at first but over the months it started shutting off after 20 seconds so I determined it was something with a relay and called an hvac person in march. He found out it was some delay relay or delay switch and was able to fix it, although he admitted he didn't replace part but instead bypassed a delay that wasn't needed. I noticed around this time I started hearing ultimately what sounded like a wet leak. Like water was blowing thru and bubbling out of a pipe. Also noticed a little bluish green drainage mark coming from the pipe in the inside unit. Figured it was maybe something I always heard but we never had the unit open so I ignored it especially since the repairman didn't seem to be to concerned.

Fast forward to yesterday morning I wake up and it's 80 degrees. I know I went to sleep a comfortable 74 so I know somethings up. Go outside and notice the fan is on ut it sounds quiet like ONLY the fan is on. Go upstairs and I don't hear that noise. Hot air. I leave everything off all day and we leave. Return at 1 am (roughly 17 hrs later) and still no cold air. Like I said, plans are to hire an hvac specialist but I wanted to see if there is anything safe I can check myself to diagnosis my problem before they show up. If I'm going to pay someone 50$ to come to my house I want to make sure I am at least armed with questions if he gives me the "1500 to fix or 4500 for a new unit" routine.

1. Anyone know what that green film is?
2. Anyway I can easily check for a leak?
3. Anything else I should do or test before throwing away my 50? (Read something about vacuuming pipes?)

I apologize for rambling. It's hot and I am beyond sleepy but seeing my wife and baby girl toss and turn won't let me sleep without asking questions. I'll probably send them to families for next few days til I get this fixed.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-29-14, 04:51 AM
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that gurgling is up at the air handler out of a white PVC pipe connected to the unit?first thing is shut the stat and reset the breakers for the condenser and the air handler /furnace....then reset that stat t run the cooling.was the tech up on the air handler with that time delay work or outside?does the condensate line run outside from the attic or pumped out from a condensate pump next to the air handler
 
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Old 06-29-14, 08:35 AM
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(pic is sideways, green stuff is going downwards not to the right)

The tech was upstairs but that noise was coming out of the handler prior to him being up there. Also today I went outside and turned ac on and the fan kicks on but I don't hear that humming sound like the compressor makes. That whistling/wet air sound is also no longer happening since ac went out. My brother who has more knowledge is coming over soon to take a look with me. Would any other pictures help?
 
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Old 06-29-14, 09:46 AM
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the gurgling noise isn't there cause the unit cooling isn't making water/condensation how about a pix of the drain out of the unit.the air sound is just the unit sucking air from the easiest places it can...stat OFF remove the fan access panel on the air handler/furnace you should see the condensate pan under the evap coil take a soda bottle and pour water into the pan.....should drain out like a sink drain..if it fills without draining the trap has muck in it...take a piece of old 2' garden hose slide it into the pan were the drain line connects to from the outside of the air handler.....catch the hole in the pan with the hose and blow into the hose water should drain out....and for this they charge believe it or not:NO NO NO: don't swet the green stuff
 
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Old 06-29-14, 11:12 AM
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Thanks. Will try that shortly. Did notice this which I believe is the contact? Seems to have a burn mark. Is there a way to test this? We took it off.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 11:39 AM
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Yes, the contactor does appear to be burned. To check the contactor, set the thermostat so it's calling for cooling. With a voltmeter, check the voltage between the red & black/blue wires both at the top and the bottom (as shown in your picture). You should measure ~240VAC between red & black at both ends of the contactor. If you only measure ~240VAC at one end but not both, then you need to check to see if you have 24VAC between the blue & yellow wires on the contactor. If you do have 24VAC, then the contactor is likely bad. If you don't have 24VAC between the blue & yellow wires, then you have a wiring, thermostat, or transformer problem.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 12:05 PM
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I don't have a voltmeter right now... can't find it so going to buy another.... However when the power is connected that middle button snaps in and stays and I can audibly hear the compressor attempts to start for for a second but then stops every 3 minutes. If contactor was bad would that even attempt to start?
 
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Old 06-29-14, 12:25 PM
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That contactor has black residue in around the contacts from the time before when it was chattering. Those contacts look ok.

You said the contactor is engaging and the compressor tries to re-start every 3 minutes.
Is the contactor still engaged ?
Does the fan continue to run ?

If yes and yes it sounds like a defective start capacitor for the compressor.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 12:30 PM
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How can I check the capacitor? I visually checked it and it wasn't bulging but can check any way.

Also... what's chances it's refrigerant level? I'm having an hvac person come look tomorrow eitherway... I've almost given up
 
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Old 06-29-14, 12:36 PM
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Is the contactor still engaged ?
Does the fan continue to run ?
?????????????


If you had a regrigerant charge issue..... the contactor would be opening and reclosing by itself
 
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Old 06-29-14, 03:18 PM
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check the 3 slip stak-ons going into the compressor....and you should have 230V on the bottom at the red and black/blue stripe might be cap that and contactor easy pickup at Grainger..
 
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Old 06-29-14, 09:30 PM
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The fan continues to run... never stops or stutters. The contactor stays in from what my brother said he was watching it.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 09:33 PM
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Will do tomorrow.

Had a relative that is going to school for hvac take a look at it but he couldn't check much since he didn't have tools. My brother and I are both off tomorrow and plan on attacking this first thing in the morning. Appreciate everyone's help.
 
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Old 06-29-14, 09:47 PM
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Since the contactor is staying engaged.... you don't have a refrigerant problem.
There is either a problem with the capacitor or directly at or with the compressor.

If your guy can't check the cap..... change it.
You can also check the wiring connections directly on the side of the compressor. These three wire connections are installed thru the compressor. One of the wires may have become loose or burned off. The cover over the wire terminals is either snapped on or has a silver clip holding it on.
Safety glasses should be worn when removing that wiring cover.
 
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Old 06-30-14, 06:58 PM
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Called someone to check and he said it was the capacitor. Some strange reason I thought the capacitor would also stop the fan from starting... ugh. Thanks for all yalls help!
 
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