[B]Unit: [/B] Residential AC 10-11 YRs old Temperature outside is in the 90s and humidity is around 30s or low 40s Thermostat set at 70 Trane XB10 outside Air conditioner unit Model 2TTB0048A1000AA ADP evaporator 450PSI R22 refrigerant Model TA06248C175B250584 [B]Background:[/B] 3 Years ago unit was freezing up. Called HVAC and said it was low on refrigerant. They filled it up and left. [B]1st Issue (last week):[/B] Outside unit started making clanking noises. No cold air was being produced. Went outside and the fan was on operating on the unit. Turned it off and called HVAC technician the next day. The technician came out and said it was the condenser fan motor that died. He didnt have the part so had to order it ($600). It took two days. Installed it and hoped this issue did not break the condenser as well. He also filled up the refrigerant since it was low. He cleaned the outside unit filter as well (the filter that goes around the unit). It was very very dirty. It worked great for the day and the night. However, the next day the pipes were frozen. [B]2nd Issue (now):[/B] The pipes are frozen and no air flow coming through vents. Turned off AC and turned on the fan. Still no airflow. Called HVAC technician again. While waiting, the pipes thawed out and I noticed water near the inside unit (under the furnace). Therefore, thought it must have frozen the A coil (evaporator) as well. HVAC technician (same company diff guy) came out thinking it was low on refrigerant. It of course wasnt because it was filled the previous day. Told him the condenser fan motor was replaced. He checked the filter and it was fine. (Usually replaces every 3month, now know every month). He opened up the inside unit. Saw a bunch of liquid in the bottom pan. He said the condensate pipe was clogged. Also said the A coil has a leak. It had some oil as well as small small bubbles. He gave us some options: 1. Solder/weld/braze the copper pipe leaks on the A coil. Another leak would end up popping up later on. 2. To replace the A Coil evaporator. ($1200) But then the compressor or condenser might be the next thing to go. 3. Replace outside unit and inside unit with brand new system. ($4600) He would refund the fan motor price as well as refrigerant price if we chose this. He highly recommended this. So we did. He turned off the unit and the replacement could not be done for a couple days. We felt sick to our stomach though for having to buy a whole new unit and kept having second thoughts. We are planning to sell the house within a year. Also kept thinking why would the leak all of a sudden cause it to freeze up. Apparently we have had a leak for 3+ years because we had to fill up the refrigerant 3 years ago. Anyways they came out to replace it yesterday. They ended up having the wrong size evaporator. So the two installers decided to blow out the condensate pipe (the drain was buried underneath landscaping all these years. Dug a hole around it). They also solder/brazed/welded the leak in the A coil evaporator. Recharged the system and said hopefully this will last the rest of the summer. They also thought it was odd that it was freezing up. It worked yesterday and last night. I kept checking both units and the outside unit only had some moisture on it before i went to bed. This morning, air flow was reduced out of vents and pipes were frozen inside and outside. Turned off AC and turned on the fan (it was set to auto last night). Any suggestions? I have been in a house at 90+ the last week and almost desperate. EDIT: It thawed out for 3 hrs. Turned it on with the fan on as well. Outside unit sounds good. The furnace blower fan sounds rumbly and the evaporator sounds kind of like a snake hissing although not constant. I am not sure if this is what it sounded like before it was freezing up.

I wasn't sure where to post this but it's 90 degrees out so I thought the A/C forum would be appropriate. About a month ago I started to here some rumbling from the blower motor. when the A/C turned on. My central system is more then 20 years old and has been trouble free(although expensive) for the 8 years I have lived in the home. I noticed it was a bit tough to spin the fan in the housing. At that point I removed the motor to take a closer look... [IMG]http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a467/chada19335/Heater/074ad28a-ab11-4bae-acb3-2bc94dce3d4e_zpsd9d66e26.jpg[/IMG] This electric motor has oiling holes. No bearings and not something I have ever seen before. The company that services the unit never mentioned it and I for sure haven't oil it. After taking the motor apart I was able to clean the shaft off(there was a sticky oil residue). Mostly on the part of the shaft that extends out of the motor end plate. That would be the side that's almost impossible to oil without removing the motor. After a good cleaning and some fresh 30 oil everything is smooth again. It spun freely and no play between shaft and sleeve. I thought I dodged a bullet but 2 weeks later it started to get hard to spin again. Repeat Here are my questions: Is straight 30W oil correct? Why would the oil gum up again? How does this system supply fresh oil to the shaft and sleeve? There is some material in there designed to hold the oil but it doesn't touch the area that needs oil. Is that my problem?