GOODMAN AC Condenser Fan Not Coming On

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  #1  
Old 07-16-14, 02:42 PM
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GOODMAN AC Condenser Fan Not Coming On

I'm experiencing the same issue the OP had two years ago, Houston204, my Goodman just stopped working.

Here's what I've done:

I bought an electric meter and found the fuse at the main panel is fine, and dishing power to the O/S unit. OK there.

I changed the Bussman fuses for the disconnect box. OK there.

I purchased and changed the contactor AND capacitor, OK there, still no change, still not working.

I also changed the thermostat -- no luck.

The blower inside works fine, but not the O/S unit. Before I call a tech out, I figured to seek advice here, first. Any help would greatly appreciated!
 
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  #2  
Old 07-16-14, 02:52 PM
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Is the contactor pulling in? Check to see if you have 24V to the contactor coil.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 02:54 PM
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Does anything happen at the outside unit when the thermostat calls for cooling? Is it just the condenser fan not running, or is the compressor also not running. Have you checked to see if you have 240VAC at the contactor input and 24VAC at the control (side) terminals (when the thermostat is calling for cooling)?
 
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Old 07-16-14, 03:17 PM
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I haven't tried that, yet. I'm at work now so I'll check that when I get home. I'll report back.... Thanks!
 
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Old 07-16-14, 03:29 PM
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Negative, sir. No activity to the O/S unit when I set it for cooling at the T-Stat...

The fan is definitely not spinning, and the compressor is not running from what I can tell; then again, would the compressor be the power source for the condenser fan? Or do the two work under separate power sources? Still a novice.

I'll have to double check the voltage going to the contactor coil.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 03:37 PM
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The contactor is actually a relay. The 24VAC from the thermostat enables the contactor which then sends 240VAC to both the compressor and condenser fan. That's why it's important to have both voltages (240 & 24) present at the contactor.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 04:20 PM
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Welcome to the forums.... DIY/selfer

I moved your post(s) to their own thread as your Goodman unit has nothing in common with the Carrier system thread you jumped on.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 06:58 PM
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Thanks PJMax... like the avi.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 07:10 PM
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Hi Bob, and Skaggsje,

I've opened the "lid" on the contactor, and pressed the center, and it kicked on. What could that mean?

I attached a picture I took of the contactor with the lid off. *edit: I guess I was able to figure it out.*

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Old 07-16-14, 07:21 PM
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I took and reposted your picture. See the two circled terminals..... those are the 24vac terminals. Turn the power off to the compressor unit and check those terminals for 24vac.

If you don't have 24vac there then locate the thermostat wire that comes from inside the house and connects to the compressor unit. Sometimes you need to remove a little wiring door or cover. Check the wires coming from the house for 24vac. You may have to remove wirenuts to test the wires.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 07:27 PM
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Will do... as for shutting down the power, should I shut down at the main panel, or the disconnect box? How should I ground to test?

Thanks very much!!!
 
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Old 07-16-14, 07:33 PM
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You can just pull the disconnect out.

You will touch your meter probes right to the terminals. No ground connection necessary at this point.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 07:50 PM
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Alrighty, I found the wires fed to the unit from the house (WH/Red), touched them with the probes, do not get a reading. Blasted!

What can I do from here to troubleshoot?
 
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Old 07-16-14, 08:10 PM
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It seems as though the wires were fried from the T-Stat to the O/S unit? Or possibly from the red/white of the inside unit?
 
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Old 07-16-14, 08:34 PM
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Ok....so now you need to move inside to the air handler/furnace. The outside compressor wires will connect there. You'll probably see one connected to C and the other to Y. Check C and Y for 24vac.
 
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Old 07-16-14, 08:51 PM
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Ahhh, man, this thing is killing me!!

No sign of life from the Y and/or C at the inside unit.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 04:40 AM
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Inside the air handler/furnace, you should see a small transformer. One side (primary) should have 120VAC across the terminals. The other side (secondary), should have 24VAC. Check to see if you get voltage, particularly the 24VAC coming out of the transformer. If you have 24VAC coming out of the transformer, look for a fuse in the circuit (typically 3 amps). The fuse protects the transformer should a short occur on the 24V line going to the thermostat & outside unit. Since you found the wires going outside melted, they probably shorted. Unfortunately, not all systems have a fuse. If there is no fuse and the transformer output shorts, it usually burns out the transformer. However, if the transformer is bad, it is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.

Before replacing the fuse or transformer (if bad), be sure to repair/replace the wiring going to the outside unit.
 

Last edited by Bob14525; 07-17-14 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 07-17-14, 08:14 AM
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Hi Bob,

Last night when PJmax advised to check for voltage to the C and Y (at the control board, White Rodgers) I saw 3 amp fuse you mentioned. I checked the fuse, and it was good.

Would the tranformer have a white, and black wire going to it?

Here's a picture of my control board: (transformer not shown?)
 
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Old 07-17-14, 09:02 AM
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I left the fuse/transformer out of our discussion as you stated that your inside blower was working. That wont work if the fuse is blown.

I see colors on terminals they aren't normally on. Can you post a pic of the terminal strip and thermostat wires so we can see what's connected.

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  #20  
Old 07-17-14, 09:25 AM
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Pete, good call regarding the fuse & transformer. I missed the the OP stated that the inside blower was working. You're right, that wouldn't work if the fuse/transformer were bad.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 02:27 PM
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Yes, sir. I'm at work but, I've taken a picture of how thermostat is currently connected.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 03:30 PM
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Check r to c in the a/h. If you don't have 24v the transformer is nfg
 
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Old 07-17-14, 04:57 PM
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Don't be afraid to use macro on that camera

When you get back home.... give us two good pics.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 07:39 PM
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Fellas! Just got home, and snapped to pics. I apologize if they're grainy, and poor quality shots -- I'm taking them with my camera phone.

Here goes... (I found the voltage from the R and C reading: 27.6; same on what I think is the transformer.)
 
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Old 07-17-14, 07:46 PM
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Do you have water in the secondary pan or do you have one of those terrible float switches that mount on the secondary port of the primary pan and prevent water from reaching the secondary pan?

 
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Old 07-17-14, 08:12 PM
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The unit upstairs has an uncapped PVC.

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Old 07-17-14, 08:18 PM
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We need a pic of the terminal strip at the furnace. You have a furnace in the picture but your thermostat is not set up for any heat.

Red - R
White - C
Blue - G
Brown ? - Y1
 
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Old 07-17-14, 08:32 PM
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Good point PJ.

Seems like stat white is not in the correct location and stat Y is stripped back too far. A clear picture of the furnace connections would shine some light on this.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 08:41 PM
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Here are a few other pics... its strange you say that PJ cause my heater kicks on.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 08:49 PM
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The stat is you described PJ, and Houston's right, the yellow stripped back too much.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 08:58 PM
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We need a clear picture of the area shown in post 19.

It would help if you can move those 2 large brown wires covering the W terminal out of the way.

I see 1 white wire on C. This should be from the condenser. That might indicate that the white wire at the stat should not be on C.

https://www.midwestapplianceparts.co.../Pcbbf112S.jpg
 
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Old 07-17-14, 11:10 PM
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Gotcha, Houston and PJ. Here's a better shot at the wire setup.
 
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Old 07-17-14, 11:35 PM
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An excellent picture.

Red - R
White - W1
Blue - G
Yellow - Y1

So at your thermostat you need to connect the white wire to W1 and clean up the yellow wire.
 
  #34  
Old 07-18-14, 04:50 AM
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Is the a freeze protection? It would be on the low side line. That's the bigger copper line going into the coil. There usually isn't a pan switch on a furnace. Pan switches are used when an air handler is on its side. You should pull the yellow wire off the board and check it between common when there's a call for cooling to make sure the tstat is working.
 
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Old 07-18-14, 05:10 AM
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You can use the stat black wire for C at the stat and furnace.
 
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Old 07-18-14, 11:21 AM
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I haven't yet, but will do Houston. But, how about the condenser outside? They have R (red) and C (white) so would that have an impact if I were to change up the wires inside whether at the stat or air handler upstairs?
 
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Old 07-18-14, 04:38 PM
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The condenser red connects to the furnace Y terminal along with the yellow wire from your stat.

The condenser white connects to the furnace C terminal along with the C wire from your stat. I'd use black for the stat C wire.
 
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Old 07-18-14, 05:50 PM
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Does he even need a C wire. Isn't it a battery thermostat ?
 
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Old 07-19-14, 06:32 AM
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Thanks I'll give it a go H204. Yep, PJ, the stat uses batteries.
 
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Old 07-25-14, 07:26 PM
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Hey fellas, I just got back from a family vacation to 107 degrees -- eesh!! Needless to say I had to roll my sleeves, and figure this out with the advice you guys lent. Thankfully I got the AC going!

Here's what I did, instead of having the Red condenser wire connected to the Y at furnace/control board, I connected it to G at the furnace/control board.

I wanted to ask 2 questions about what I did:
1) Will there be issues going forward?

2) A better question, does it mean the Y at the control board is not working?
 
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