Rheem outside unit kicking on while inside unit is off.
#1
08-11-14, 07:02 AM
Rheem outside unit kicking on while inside unit is off.
Hi guys,
I will best describe everything that is currently happening, in hopes of suggestions at what might be my problem, and maybe even possible fix for that problem.
What is happening is the outside unit (which only happening sometimes, always seemingly to be at night) will kick on and run, but the inside unit blower will not be on. It is a Ream outside unit which experts know will be very noisy. However when this occurs, the outside unit it is even more noisy than normal. When this happens outside, the inside unit blower is not running, therefore no air are coming though the vents, but if you stand under the return air vent located in the ceiling, you can feel slightly cold air under it, (which by the way is directly above the thermostat of the wall). I noticed last night, although it being a slightly cold air flow that it is sending, it is enough cold air coming from the return air vent, that it makes the thermostat located below read as much as 2 degrees lower than what the thermostat is set on. Last night at 2:30am when I woke up with the outside unit only running by itself, the thermostat was set on 74 but read 72. Also I noticed the other day that the ceiling area around the return air vent has now accumulated mildew which I believe is do to this problem which is happening.
My belief by my trouble shooting is that the problem might either be a loose wire, a stuck switch, or maybe a faulty switch. I say this because when I went outside I tapped on the side of the outside unit and it shut down.
In closing I would hate to pay for a AC/Heating repair guy to come out for a loose wire are switch I can simply change on my own.
Thanks for any and all helpful suggestions I may receive.
I will best describe everything that is currently happening, in hopes of suggestions at what might be my problem, and maybe even possible fix for that problem.
What is happening is the outside unit (which only happening sometimes, always seemingly to be at night) will kick on and run, but the inside unit blower will not be on. It is a Ream outside unit which experts know will be very noisy. However when this occurs, the outside unit it is even more noisy than normal. When this happens outside, the inside unit blower is not running, therefore no air are coming though the vents, but if you stand under the return air vent located in the ceiling, you can feel slightly cold air under it, (which by the way is directly above the thermostat of the wall). I noticed last night, although it being a slightly cold air flow that it is sending, it is enough cold air coming from the return air vent, that it makes the thermostat located below read as much as 2 degrees lower than what the thermostat is set on. Last night at 2:30am when I woke up with the outside unit only running by itself, the thermostat was set on 74 but read 72. Also I noticed the other day that the ceiling area around the return air vent has now accumulated mildew which I believe is do to this problem which is happening.
My belief by my trouble shooting is that the problem might either be a loose wire, a stuck switch, or maybe a faulty switch. I say this because when I went outside I tapped on the side of the outside unit and it shut down.
In closing I would hate to pay for a AC/Heating repair guy to come out for a loose wire are switch I can simply change on my own.
Thanks for any and all helpful suggestions I may receive.
#2
08-11-14, 07:35 AM
Member
These intermittents are always hard to find, but I would suggest that you check the contactor. It is located in the outside unit and is a relay. When the 24VAC control signal from the thermostat calls for cooling, the contactor gets energized, pulling the contacts closed, turning on the outside unit. Over time the contacts can get pitted and sometime stick in the closed position. Contactors are relatively inexpensive and might be worthwhile replacing. You can buy one from Grainger, Johnstone Supply, or even Amazon.com. There is a procedure to test the contactor, however you would have to test it while the problem is occurring, which might prove difficult.
#3
08-11-14, 09:42 PM
Group Moderator
It is a Ream outside unit which experts know will be very noisy.
It's fairly common for the condensor to remain running when the thermostat is no longer calling for A/C. It's not as common for the condensor to come on all by itself.
#4
08-11-14, 09:59 PM
Thanks Bob14525 for you reply.
I ordered a contactor off a fleabay vendor today for $22.95, especially since I read that they last about 3-7 years, and the one on my 11 year old Rheem unit has never been changed. It is scheduled to get here on Friday, which then I will post back the results of that part chnnge.
I ordered a contactor off a fleabay vendor today for $22.95, especially since I read that they last about 3-7 years, and the one on my 11 year old Rheem unit has never been changed. It is scheduled to get here on Friday, which then I will post back the results of that part chnnge.
#5
08-11-14, 10:01 PM
Group Moderator
Be sure to take a picture or two of the wiring or identify the leads before exchanging contactors.
#6
08-11-14, 10:06 PM
PJmax,
Well just today I commented to my wife that I could here the outside unit running from my mailbox, which just happens to be is located about 250 feet from my house. So I have to say that my Rheem unit is the loudest I ever heard.
Did that already PJmax!
Well just today I commented to my wife that I could here the outside unit running from my mailbox, which just happens to be is located about 250 feet from my house. So I have to say that my Rheem unit is the loudest I ever heard.
Did that already PJmax!
#7
08-18-14, 08:03 AM
I installed a new contactor this weekend, and so far the problem I was having (listed above) when I reduced my thermostat down to 74 has not occurred. I am guessing only more time will tell for sure.
In the picture above you can see what I believe is my Start Capacitor. I was thinking about changing it too.
I have a couple of more questions to ask you guys:
Although I am not having trouble currently with the Start Capacitor should maybe I change it too since it is 11 years old, and just keep the old one as a spare since it is still working, so when the new one goes out I would have one to use until a another new one can come in?
In all AC units are there 2 Capacitors, a Start Capacitor and a Run Capacitor?
In the picture above you can see what I believe is my Start Capacitor. I was thinking about changing it too.
I have a couple of more questions to ask you guys:
Although I am not having trouble currently with the Start Capacitor should maybe I change it too since it is 11 years old, and just keep the old one as a spare since it is still working, so when the new one goes out I would have one to use until a another new one can come in?
In all AC units are there 2 Capacitors, a Start Capacitor and a Run Capacitor?
