Goodman outside fan issues


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Old 09-03-14, 07:29 AM
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Goodman outside fan issues

Greetings, thanks in advance for your help.

I have two outside units that have your typical fan on top that spin whenever the a/c unit is on. Last night I heard a loud whirring noise coming from the unit and my upstairs vents started blowing warm air.

We'll this morning checked the attic unit, no frozen coils as I just had refrigerant put inside. Went outside and noticed the fan was not spinning. This is the same fan that blows to the upstairs. I could still hear the motor whirring but no fan spinning.

Any suggestions. Also there is what looks like a fuse box above this unit and when I open it it reads off/on. Would I need to shut this down when tinkering with this problem and what about the fuse box that controls the a/c upstairs? Should I switch that as we'll.


Thank you.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 07:41 AM
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After reading several posts, I decided to stick start it. Using a small ruler I simply tapped the fan and it spun. My next goal is going to be taking it apart and trying to find out if the motor is bad. Any help?
 
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Old 09-03-14, 07:43 AM
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First, shut power off to the outside unit. Operating it without the fan running is bad for the compressor. The whirring noise you heard was probably the compressor running. It appears you may have an issue with the run capacitor for the fan, Yes, you definitely need to shut the power off when tinkering with the problem. The "fuse box" above the unit you mentioned is the disconnect for the condenser. If it is a non-fused disconnect you will have to pull the plug out of it. If it is a breaker type disconnect you will flip the breaker to off. Do you have a multimeter to do electrical troubleshooting? After power is shut off to the unit you can do an inspection of the run capacitor for the fan to see if you see if the ends of the capacitor are bulging, if there is fluid leaking and for burned wires or terminals. Before touching the run capacitor, with power turned off, make sure to discharge the capacitor by shorting across the terminal on the contactor.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 07:54 AM
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Firedawg, thank you. The fuse box is one where the switch can only be pressed up or down. But there is writing on the box that states "non fuse" so I'm assuming I'll have to pull the switch out.

I do have a multimeter which purchased and learned to use from this forum. Once the power is off I am assuming I can remove the upper perimeter screws that will enable me to completely remove the fan portion. I do notice a set do wires that run from the fan toward I'm assuming the run capacitor.

After I've checked the obvious bulges, frays, burns etc... How would I check for electrical connectivity issues? I would have to turn the unit back on? Thanks again
 
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Old 09-03-14, 08:01 AM
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To do an inspection of the run capacitor you will not have to remove the top. There should be an access panel where all of the electrical/control components are located. The run capacitor will look similar to the one in the photo attached to my last post. More than likely the run capacitor is your problem. I suggest that when you shut the power off to the unit you verify that by using your meter to read across L1 and L2 on your contactor as shown in the attached diagram.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 08:11 AM
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Gotcha. So just so I'm understanding. And in no way trying to be a smart a&$, once I cut the power off I can test L1 and 2 without the power being on. And if I don't get a reading then there is something else wrong other then the run capacitor or will this test confirm the issue with the run capacitor.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 08:19 AM
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When you cut the power off at the disconnect and test across L1 and L2 you should have no reading. That procedure is to verify the power is totally off and is for your safety. If a breaker is faulty at the disconnect and even though turned off it could still possibly allow voltage through. I always do this test before touching anything.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 09:00 AM
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Gotcha thanks. I'll make sure all power is off.
 
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Old 09-03-14, 09:10 AM
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After you do the inspection of the run capacitor and obvious wiring problems I suggest you next do the testing at the points indicated in the diagram I attached in post #5. These tests will confirm if all required control voltages are present to allow proper operation of the system. When you do these tests you will have to restore power to the unit, set meter on VAC and measure ACROSS the test points. Use extreme caution as the voltage in the condenser is lethal. Always remove all jewelry before performing electrical testing.
 
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Old 09-04-14, 10:34 PM
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Fire, you are the man. Run capacitor was the issue. Bulging on top. 50 bucks later all is working great. I even checked all connections to make sure voltage is present and that checked out fine.

Thank you very much.
 
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Old 09-05-14, 06:38 AM
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Glad you got it up and runnin'. Thanks for letting us know. Did you replace the capacitor yourself or hire it out? The reason I ask is because 50 bucks for a run capacitor is way over priced.
 
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Old 09-07-14, 12:43 PM
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Fire, after diagnosing the problem my wife called a tech who has treated us well with not over charging us and by the time I got home it was changed. I would have loved to have changed it after solving the issue. But at least I got to use my volt meter.
 
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Old 09-07-14, 12:50 PM
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Not a bad price at all for installation plus part! Sounds like an honest tech. It is amazing how useful volt meters are but yet most people don't own one.
 
 

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