Carrier 58Gsc080db heating and cooling system, need help Heat spell in CA


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Old 09-16-14, 08:07 PM
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Carrier 58Gsc080db heating and cooling system, need help Heat spell in CA

Hello all,

Back ground started unit and house fan came on and then compressor came on. No cool air so I shut the unit off.

checked unit for Freon, Check.

Started unit, house fan came on, NO compressor action. few moments later heard a noisy come from the house fan furnace air handler. Shut everything down.

The house fan work. The fan does not work when I call for cool.

Replaced control board with icm271 and a new transformer.

no fuse in control board give me low fan, no jumpers (that's correct)
R to gc jumper give me fan in hi mode.
R to W lights the pilot and burners, too hot to see if it will bring the fan on.
R to Y cool, the fan does not come on. Compressor leads disconnected.
118 volts going to the board. 26 volts out of transformer. 26 out of transformer with fan running. (old transformer was weak at 13v)
continuity between lim1 and lim2
continuity between flame roll out diode a
continuity between hi temp reset switch
r to c 26v
sec1 and sec2 26v
gc to c Nothing
w to c Nothing
hi speed fan 188 v
lo speed fan 108ish v

Am I missing something or could I have a bad "brand new controller board.

http://www.icmcontrols.com/ProdImages/ig_LIAF044-1.pdf
controller board manual here.

Thanks in advance John
 
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Old 09-16-14, 08:15 PM
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Are you saying there is no 3 amp fuse installed in the control board?
 
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Old 09-16-14, 08:42 PM
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Yes the fuse is in the board and is ok.
If I take it out the fan goes into an auto lo mode like it is supposed to do. That is all I was saying.

The fuse is in the board. hope that helps
 
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Old 09-16-14, 09:19 PM
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I was checking some notes I have archived on that model furnace. There should be a brown and red wire that connects to the Lim-1 and Lim-2 terminals on the control board. On those wires there should be a fusible link and a limit switch. Check for continuity across those two components.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 09:33 PM
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Yes there is but I will double check and report back
 
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Old 09-16-14, 09:41 PM
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Yes continuity on both and from lim1 to lim2.
 
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Old 09-16-14, 09:47 PM
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Have you checked for proper voltage at thermostat? It could be a thermostat issue. I was reviewing the installation instructions for your new control board. Under Operational Differences section did you ensure those procedures were checked such as: do not cut the JW1 jumper and did you perform the appropriate procedure for the vent plug and etc. Also there is another section titled Blower Speed that addresses relays on the old board and the need to cut JW1 and R17 if they were cut on old board.

One more thought: did you verify the 3 amp fuse is intact by checking it for continuity instead of mere observation? I have had fuses that looked good to the eye but when checked for continuity were bad.
 

Last edited by firedawgsatx; 09-16-14 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 09-16-14, 09:52 PM
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Started unit, house fan came on, NO compressor action. few moments later heard a noisy come from the house fan furnace air handler. Shut everything down.

The house fan work. The fan does not work when I call for cool.
Is the stat G wire connected to the furnace GC?

gc to c Nothing
Is this with a cooling demand present at the stat?

hi speed fan 188 v
Are you measuring Hi to L2?
 
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Old 09-16-14, 11:38 PM
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Confirm wiring is connected as shown in attached diagram.
 
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Old 09-17-14, 01:15 AM
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Firedawg,

I have taken the thermostat off at the board and I am using jumpers for operation. Quicker than going in the house everytime to check. But yes I have voltage at the tstat.

Yes I did ready about the operational differences and nothing was cut on my board. My fan speed is lo and hi only.

yes put a ohm meter on the fuse and it is good.


Huston, Yes the green wire was hooked up to gc, but I Have since by passed that and am jumping at the control board.

c to gc nothing, that was without the stat hooked up on the control board. Do I need the stat on the board and in cool setting in order to check that I have 24 volts between the two?

Hi speed fan volts was measured between the white common and the hi at the motor connector by the fan.


OK I hooked everything back up as shown on my inside panel wiring diagram and verified with photos I took prior to starting on this project.
t-stat all hooked back up also.
fan works when called at tstat.
t=stat set to heat, = no pilot, no burner, no fan
t-stat set to cool, = no fan and no compressor.

Any other ideas? or did I miss something.
 
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Old 09-17-14, 06:17 AM
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Did you jump the wires at the tstat to see if it will operate? Jump W and R to see if the furnace will come on and then G, R and Y to see if the a/c will come on. If so, it would appear you have a bad thermostat.
 
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Old 09-17-14, 01:47 PM
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Carrier AC not turning on.

Similar problem with Carrier model: 38ER060300; A/C doesn't turn on.
Background: when I turn thermostat to Cool, nothing happens. Neither Fan/condenser nor HAVC fan turn on for "Cool". If I turn thermostat to Heat, fan blows warm air thru the ducts.
Checking breakers and fuses, all OK.
Fan rotates freely when I spin it.
Have 117 volts across each side of contactor.
If I press contactor, condenser & fan immediately operate, however HAVC fan will only work if I turn thermostat control from Auto to Fan.
With contactor depressed and fan setting on "fan" rather than "Auto", my home is cool. However I would prefer to return to using thermostat rather than a stick to hold the contactor, and the fan in manual rather than Auto setting.
Also if run for too long, fuse blows, so appears to be additional problems. Getting old could be one!
Suggestions appreciated.
 
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Old 09-17-14, 02:18 PM
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Your symptoms sound like a thermostat issue. If you use a battery operated thermostat first check the batteries. To isolate the thermostat as the issue you can remove the wires from the R, G and Y terminals and twist them together to see if the condenser and blower will both come on. If so, it would point to a bad thermostat. If the blower and condenser do not start up, more troubleshooting is needed. You can test for 24V at the thermostat. If you have 24V, set thermostat to cool and go outside to the condenser and test for proper voltages at the contactor. You will need to measure voltage ACROSS the contactor at L1 and L2 and T1 and T2 to see if you have approximately 240V. Then measure across the low voltage terminals on the contactor to see if you have approximately 24V. If you do not have 24V at the contactor further troubleshooting will be required to determine where the required 24V to pull in the contactor are being lost.
 
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Last edited by firedawgsatx; 09-17-14 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 09-17-14, 03:54 PM
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Thanks guys for the quick reply, I will check that out this evening. Cheers

Please note that on the trouble shooting page for that new controller board. I am not getting 24volts at some of the areas as noted in my first post. My checking was done with no tstat wires connect to the board. No sure if that helps or is clear.
 
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Old 09-17-14, 04:20 PM
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You should have all of the thermostat wires correctly connected to the control board terminals and thermostat set to Cooling mode when testing voltages. Do the same for Heat mode.

I located another document with slightly different installation instructions for your replacement board:

http://www.comfortgurus.com/specs/IC...stallation.pdf

It states on page 3, number 3, that Y from the thermostat and the condenser must be installed on the Y terminal on the control board to get the high speed blower on a R-Y call.
 

Last edited by firedawgsatx; 09-17-14 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 09-17-14, 07:25 PM
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I had a little more time to study this. I feel that you need to install a jumper wire between R and GH terminals at the control board. When you set the thermostat well below room temperature and set it to Cool you should have 24V between C and Y and between C and GC at control board. Make sure the wire on the thermostat G terminal goes to GC at the terminal board. Also make sure the breaker for your condenser is not tripped. I have attached a wiring diagram that should make it operate properly.
 
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Last edited by firedawgsatx; 09-17-14 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 09-18-14, 09:11 PM
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Thanks Firedawg,

I got it working late last nite, I realize now that I need the tstat hooked up when doing this stuff.

I first started out by taking power 26v from the transformer and sending out to the contactor at the compressor/condenser. Upon doing so my voltage dropped to 8 volts. Bingo, Contactor coil was bad. Luckily I had order one when I bought the new control board. (Which likely was not bad, but I replaced it any how).

So, I changed out the contactor. Put it all back together and It worked.

NOW I need to adjust or add Freon. I have some small 22oz cans R22,. I checked the low side and it was at about 40psi.
So I added some gas to bring it up to 50psi, considering it was not too hot out at the time I was doing this last night. (78-83 degrees out) Bummer the heat spell broke, now I don't really need the air. Oh well, the furnace is ready to go for winter.

Just curious where the gas should be on the low side on a 90 degree day.

I am getting 60 degrees out of the ducts that run thru the walls close to the unit. I have not checked to see what the upstairs is doing.


THANK YOU GUYS for all your help. I know it is important to follow up here after a solution is found. That way someone else may find an answer in the future.
 
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Old 09-18-14, 10:23 PM
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Glad to hear you got it up and runnin' and thanks for the update. In accordance with forum rules discussion of refrigerant pressures is not allowed: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai...ng-your-c.html
 
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Old 09-18-14, 11:54 PM
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Check,

Ill just have my buddy come put his 1k gage set on it to make sure I am at the ideal charge. Thanks again. John.
 
 

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