Bad Capacitor


  #1  
Old 12-22-14, 03:49 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Bad Capacitor

I can home from a bike ride today and noticed my Air Handler was running and the outside unit wasn't running. The thermostat was set to 70 and it was 73 inside so the thermostat didn't turn the unit off. I tried to start it a little bit later. It ran for like 20 minutes then the outside unit shut off again with the air handler blower still going. I took the cover off the unit to look for a bad capacitor because they just replaced my dual cap a few months ago. I noticed this black capacitor might have blown. What is it and what does it do?

Name:  IMG_0649.jpg
Views: 452
Size:  27.6 KB
 
  #2  
Old 12-22-14, 04:13 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Update: It shut down while the cover was off. The Rheem LCD was blank and the red light was off. Thermostat still sending run signal. Bad controller board?
 
  #3  
Old 12-22-14, 04:15 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
It is a start capacitor.
It is parallel with the run capacitor on startup then the white start relay takes it out of the circuit.

It appears to be leaking but not necessarily blown.
There will be a small round indentation near the start cap terminals that will swell or blow out when the start cap is blown.

If it is only leaking then you can replace it but it may not be the cause of your problem. If it is blown then the start relay and start cap should be replaced.

Can you see the run cap?
 
  #4  
Old 12-22-14, 04:17 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Run cap looks good. You probably posted right as i was sending update. Look at the message below about ICC Circuit board LCD off and red thermostat light off.
 
  #5  
Old 12-22-14, 04:17 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
Do you have a meter to measure for 24 volts AC?
 
  #6  
Old 12-22-14, 04:20 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yea. Where do i need to check for 24 volts?
 
  #7  
Old 12-22-14, 04:24 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
Is this a heat pump?
Do you have a model number?

R to C and Y to C.
If you want heat you also want 24 volts B to C.

C = 24 volt common (probably brown)
R = 24 volt power (red)
Y = compressor signal (yellow)
B = reversing valve powered for heat mode (blue)
D = electric heat strip (violet)
 
  #8  
Old 12-22-14, 04:26 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
In thermostat or at unit?
 
  #9  
Old 12-22-14, 04:33 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
At the unit.

Is this a split system or package unit?

If it is a split system check for water in the secondary pan of the air handler.
 
  #10  
Old 12-22-14, 04:35 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
Be back in an hour. Got to cook dinner.
I'm thinkin breakfast for dinner tonightrogram:
 
  #11  
Old 12-22-14, 04:47 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Split. Right now unit is running ~24V Between R & C, and between C & Y2
 
  #12  
Old 12-22-14, 05:24 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Tested same wires after letting unit run for a while when tstat should have been sending 24 volts, got 0 volts so it could be t-stat. Putting in my old one now. The one currently installed was a wifi one which i had to add a C wire with an external transformer. Im going to put my old battery honeywell back in to see if its a bad stat. After that will have to check float switch.
 
  #13  
Old 12-22-14, 06:46 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Replaced T-Stat

I just switched out t-stat same issue. However i noticed when it shuts down the outside unit stops. Then the air handler stops. Could it be float switch? Will Float switch shutdown air handler also?
 
  #14  
Old 12-22-14, 07:13 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 6,425
Received 75 Upvotes on 68 Posts
A float switch can interrupt Y (compressor) or R (power).
Is the indoor unit tough to access?
 
  #15  
Old 12-22-14, 07:15 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 9
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I just took float switch out it appears there was water. Just vacuumed out condensate line. We will see how it goes.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: