Compressor - Bad Caps and "Kickstart"
#1
04-16-15, 01:53 PM
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Compressor - Bad Caps and "Kickstart"
So i recently replaced the run capacitor on my blower motor for the air handler and was pleased with how simple and cheap a repair that turned out to be -- only to find that my compressor isn't completely functioning.
When set to cool, the blower kicks on and the outdoor compressor fan works (most of the time) but the air was not cool. Taking my newfound capacitor replacement knowledge, I cracked the compressor panel open and am now a bit confused.
The capacitor in the kickstart housing seems dead (although I don't know if these read like a traditional capacitor due to the extra resistor wired between the terminals) as does the large 60UFD/440V cap (which i think is the compressor run cap). The Kickstart cap/relay is seemingly wired only to this large cap (via the blue wires), and looks aftermarket.
The smaller 7.5UFD cap (fan run cap I assume) reads 6.3UFD which is a bit low as I understand.
Would I get by just replacing both capacitors and removing the kickstart component? The caps are relatively cheap compared to the kickstart unit -- any advice on how to proceed is appreciated, thanks all!
When set to cool, the blower kicks on and the outdoor compressor fan works (most of the time) but the air was not cool. Taking my newfound capacitor replacement knowledge, I cracked the compressor panel open and am now a bit confused.
The capacitor in the kickstart housing seems dead (although I don't know if these read like a traditional capacitor due to the extra resistor wired between the terminals) as does the large 60UFD/440V cap (which i think is the compressor run cap). The Kickstart cap/relay is seemingly wired only to this large cap (via the blue wires), and looks aftermarket.
The smaller 7.5UFD cap (fan run cap I assume) reads 6.3UFD which is a bit low as I understand.
Would I get by just replacing both capacitors and removing the kickstart component? The caps are relatively cheap compared to the kickstart unit -- any advice on how to proceed is appreciated, thanks all!
#2
04-16-15, 02:35 PM
What did you read on 60 MFD cap? That hard start kit was added because the comp was having a hard time starting.
Last edited by skaggsje; 04-16-15 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Adde info
#3
04-16-15, 04:42 PM
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It seems to be completely shot. Readings are fluctuating in the NanoF range, so not even close
#4
04-16-15, 04:48 PM
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Since you have determined that the 60mfd cap is bad, I would start by replacing that. You don't show the kickstart capacitor, however you can probably temporarily remove the resistor to check the capacitor. The resistor (depending upon it's value) may give a false reading when checking the capacitor.
#5
04-16-15, 05:19 PM
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Did you disconnect all wires before trying to take readings on the compressor cap?
With the fan cap only reading 6.3, I'd replace it too.
You are likely going to have to replace all three.
With the fan cap only reading 6.3, I'd replace it too.
You are likely going to have to replace all three.
#6
04-16-15, 06:46 PM
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Yes, and then put them back for the pictures. So if the compressor was having a hard time starting as skaggsje suggested, would a brand new cap resolve that and not require the kickstart cap to be in the loop anymore?
#7
04-16-15, 06:56 PM
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Maybe but not likely. The Kickstart actually saves energy by giving the compressor a jolt of current rather than allowing the extra load over a much longer time. Many, if not most, really high efficient units have start assists of one kind or another.
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04-16-15, 07:42 PM
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Thanks, so I'll replace all those - pretty good chance the compressor itself is just fine after running off deficient caps for however long?
#10
04-17-15, 10:59 PM
With older compressors, you'd probably be OK. But newer ones (say 2006 and after) are alot skimpier windings, and don't tolerate voltage spikes, brownouts, or improper capacitance well.
Plus, older capacitors used to be huge, filled with (supposedly) toxic PCB's, and lasted virtually a lifetime. Then we started importing the Chinese caps, and we're lucky to get past the warranty period.
Get an Amrad multi-tap capacitor. They are solid, tough, spike voltage tested, and the one cap will replace both the caps in your control panel. A start kit is also not a bad idea, and they are not expensive. After replacing those, see if the compressor starts and runs right. hopefully it'll be OK.
Amrad Multi-Cap Up To 67.5 Mfd Capacitor | Carrier Enterprise
Plus, older capacitors used to be huge, filled with (supposedly) toxic PCB's, and lasted virtually a lifetime. Then we started importing the Chinese caps, and we're lucky to get past the warranty period.
Get an Amrad multi-tap capacitor. They are solid, tough, spike voltage tested, and the one cap will replace both the caps in your control panel. A start kit is also not a bad idea, and they are not expensive. After replacing those, see if the compressor starts and runs right. hopefully it'll be OK.
Amrad Multi-Cap Up To 67.5 Mfd Capacitor | Carrier Enterprise
