Compressor - Bad Caps and "Kickstart"


  #1  
Old 04-16-15, 01:53 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: usa
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Compressor - Bad Caps and "Kickstart"

So i recently replaced the run capacitor on my blower motor for the air handler and was pleased with how simple and cheap a repair that turned out to be -- only to find that my compressor isn't completely functioning.

When set to cool, the blower kicks on and the outdoor compressor fan works (most of the time) but the air was not cool. Taking my newfound capacitor replacement knowledge, I cracked the compressor panel open and am now a bit confused.

Name:  IMG_20150416_151803.jpg
Views: 1946
Size:  37.2 KBName:  IMG_20150416_151812.jpg
Views: 1260
Size:  34.7 KBName:  IMG_20150416_151824.jpg
Views: 1408
Size:  37.1 KBName:  IMG_20150416_151834.jpg
Views: 1391
Size:  37.0 KBName:  IMG_20150416_151847~2.jpg
Views: 1200
Size:  50.1 KB

The capacitor in the kickstart housing seems dead (although I don't know if these read like a traditional capacitor due to the extra resistor wired between the terminals) as does the large 60UFD/440V cap (which i think is the compressor run cap). The Kickstart cap/relay is seemingly wired only to this large cap (via the blue wires), and looks aftermarket.

The smaller 7.5UFD cap (fan run cap I assume) reads 6.3UFD which is a bit low as I understand.

Would I get by just replacing both capacitors and removing the kickstart component? The caps are relatively cheap compared to the kickstart unit -- any advice on how to proceed is appreciated, thanks all!
 
  #2  
Old 04-16-15, 02:35 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,771
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
What did you read on 60 MFD cap? That hard start kit was added because the comp was having a hard time starting.
 

Last edited by skaggsje; 04-16-15 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Adde info
  #3  
Old 04-16-15, 04:42 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: usa
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
It seems to be completely shot. Readings are fluctuating in the NanoF range, so not even close
 
  #4  
Old 04-16-15, 04:48 PM
Bob14525's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,639
Received 79 Upvotes on 69 Posts
Since you have determined that the 60mfd cap is bad, I would start by replacing that. You don't show the kickstart capacitor, however you can probably temporarily remove the resistor to check the capacitor. The resistor (depending upon it's value) may give a false reading when checking the capacitor.
 
  #5  
Old 04-16-15, 05:19 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes on 39 Posts
Did you disconnect all wires before trying to take readings on the compressor cap?
With the fan cap only reading 6.3, I'd replace it too.
You are likely going to have to replace all three.
 
  #6  
Old 04-16-15, 06:46 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: usa
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, and then put them back for the pictures. So if the compressor was having a hard time starting as skaggsje suggested, would a brand new cap resolve that and not require the kickstart cap to be in the loop anymore?
 
  #7  
Old 04-16-15, 06:56 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes on 39 Posts
Maybe but not likely. The Kickstart actually saves energy by giving the compressor a jolt of current rather than allowing the extra load over a much longer time. Many, if not most, really high efficient units have start assists of one kind or another.
 
  #8  
Old 04-16-15, 07:42 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: usa
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks, so I'll replace all those - pretty good chance the compressor itself is just fine after running off deficient caps for however long?
 
  #9  
Old 04-17-15, 05:14 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 12,682
Received 41 Upvotes on 39 Posts
Most likely but really hard to tell without knowing the caps are good.
 
  #10  
Old 04-17-15, 10:59 PM
M
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 23
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
With older compressors, you'd probably be OK. But newer ones (say 2006 and after) are alot skimpier windings, and don't tolerate voltage spikes, brownouts, or improper capacitance well.
Plus, older capacitors used to be huge, filled with (supposedly) toxic PCB's, and lasted virtually a lifetime. Then we started importing the Chinese caps, and we're lucky to get past the warranty period.
Get an Amrad multi-tap capacitor. They are solid, tough, spike voltage tested, and the one cap will replace both the caps in your control panel. A start kit is also not a bad idea, and they are not expensive. After replacing those, see if the compressor starts and runs right. hopefully it'll be OK.

Amrad Multi-Cap Up To 67.5 Mfd Capacitor | Carrier Enterprise
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: