Outside ac unit constantly running


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Old 05-10-15, 12:02 PM
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Outside ac unit constantly running

Ok I was first dealing with a noisy contactor. So I've had ac off for about a week, since weather has been pleasant. Friday I replace the contactor which I bought from a supply store. Goes fine, no more noise. But now the outside fan and compressor constantly run. Even when inside cycles off. I can turn thermostat to "off" mode and it will still run. I even tried emergency heat, still runs.

The only way to shut it off is to pull breaker. I've gone through some threads here but haven't found solution.
Rheem 13PJL36A01
 
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Old 05-10-15, 01:46 PM
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Post a picture of your installed contactor and we may be able to offer better assistance.



Does the unit turn off if you unplug a wire from the contactor low voltage terminals?

Do you have a volt meter?
 
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Old 05-10-15, 02:03 PM
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I do have a multimeter. Let me get pic up.
 
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Old 05-10-15, 02:14 PM
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I hosted the pic on tiny pic.com. Is that allowed here. It doesn't show up.
 
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Old 05-10-15, 02:22 PM
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Old 05-10-15, 02:25 PM
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Bottom pic is one I removed
 
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Old 05-10-15, 03:19 PM
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Which one is the low voltage terminal?
 
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Old 05-10-15, 03:32 PM
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I labeled your picture.....

Name:  pjc_1.jpg
Views: 462
Size:  45.2 KB
 
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Old 05-11-15, 06:28 AM
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Ok, so I can pull one of the low voltage terminal wires off while it's running. The fan should turn off? Or what should happen?
 
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Old 05-11-15, 12:34 PM
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Yes... with the low voltage wire disconnected neither the compressor nor the fan should run.
 
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Old 05-11-15, 12:49 PM
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I disconnected the low voltage brown. It still turned on. Put it back. Then I tried yellow. And it still turned on
 
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Old 05-11-15, 12:54 PM
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I disconnected both then tried it. And fan turned on.
 
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Old 05-11-15, 12:59 PM
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In my labeled picture above.... look where it says 240v in. You can see the heavy red and black wires coming in but where does that thin black wire go to ?

Best to pull disconnect when tracing wires.
 
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Old 05-11-15, 01:11 PM
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Strange; but it appears the contacts are struck closed.

Shut the breaker OFF test to make sure all high voltage power is off to the condenser.
TEST to make sure it's LOW voltage coming to the control coil, if so, then Pull the low voltage conductor off the control coil

Remove the cover from the contactor & pry the contacts apart.
Did they weld? A little WD40 can be used to lube where the points move open & closed.

Reconnect the low voltage conductor to see if the contacts close.
There is a transformer usually in the furnace & that power source is on a separate breaker.

Then have someone cycle the cooling on in the house & see if the points close & open when they should. A little WD40 can be used to lube where the points move open & closed.

Appears to have a time delay going to the contactor!

Might be a defective contactor(?)
 
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Old 05-11-15, 03:41 PM
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The thin black one goes to a spade terminal. On bottom of contactor. I can't upload pic from my phone. I will do so when I get home from work.
 
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Old 05-11-15, 05:17 PM
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PJmax: What program do you use to label an image?
 
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Old 05-11-15, 07:18 PM
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Yes.... I can see the wire connected to the contactor. Where does the other end connect to ?

The bottom side of the contactor is the live side. That means that black wire is getting always live power. That's why we need to know where it's connected.

I use microsoft Paint for my labeling. It's pretty easy to use.
 
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Old 05-11-15, 09:05 PM
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That black wire should go to the defrost timer according to the 13SEER Rheem heat pump diagram that I have.

I see that we are breaking Common instead of Run like as shown in the diagram.

Still seems like it is just a bad contactor.

I would pull the cover off of the contactor to see if it opens when power is removed.
 
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Old 05-12-15, 02:06 PM
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Ok. So that black wire was in wrong position. It was recieving full power. A simple wiring mix up. Lol! It works perfectly now!
 
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Old 05-12-15, 10:39 PM
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Thank you guys very much for all the help and suggestions! I love this forum.
 
 

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