13 seer series R-22 cube condensing 5 ton unit ,size36"x36" installed new


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Old 05-09-15, 08:04 PM
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13 seer series R-22 cube condensing 5 ton unit ,size36"x36" installed new

DUE TO MANY PROBLEMS WITH OUR OLD UNIT,THIS RHEEM MODEL 13 AJA60 unit was installed new in june 29,2012(almost two year old by now), by replacing our outside 5 ton older RHEEM unit. AND DUE TO HEATING PROBLEMS,RECENTLY ,ON MARCH-12-2015,A NEW GAS-FIRED WARM AIR FURNACE MODEL GMS81005CN was matched(5-tons) & also installed in our attic by replacing our old goodman brand heater.OUR two year old,5 ton RHEEM unit was giving chattering noise at the end of running cycle(two of the nut bolts around the compressor, came out loose itself and were replaced recently, by new, 4 nuts & bolts.The technician added a time delay,a starter kit/(BOOSTER) and a brand new cotactor,and the unit started running.It cools,but , freon line is freezing along with the T-V-Valve ,which is connected to our old Evaporator coil inside our attic. our existing,old evaporator coil was also cleaned by technician, before,instalation of new goodman brand heater.FREON LEVEL WAS CHECKED BY SEVERAL TECHNICIANS.NO LEAK WAS DETECTED,NEITHER IT WAS LOW IN FREON. AIR FILTER IS BRAND NEW,NO BLOCKAGE OF AIR WAS DETECTED......ANYONE PLEASE LET US KNOW,what else could be the reason of frozen freon line and frozen T & V VALVE???....THE UNIT IS RUNNING AND COOLING good, BUT AFTER 12 hours of RUN, we see ice in freon line outside unit and ,ice on T&V valve ,which is connected to our old evaporator coil in our attic. so we shut it down for a while and run again.........HELP
 
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Old 05-10-15, 08:45 AM
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Frozen line most of the time was caused by: 1. low Freon. 2. low inside unit air flow.
So check your in house air flow, do not use high priced filter. Is the coil frozen ?
 
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Old 05-13-15, 08:12 PM
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SIR,our unit was checked by different licensed contractors in louisiana.We have not found anyone yet,who could fix the air condiotioner.LAST MONTH,WE EVEN INSTALLED A BRAND NEW GOODMAN BRAND HEATER matched 5 ton with our oudoor RHEEM 5 ton unit.FREON LEVEL WAS CHECKED,NOT LOW AT ALL,THE UNIT IS RUNNING AND COOLING .AFTER 12 HOURS OF RUN,WE NOTICE ICE ON OUTSIDE RHEEM UNIT'S FREON LINE, ALSO ICE ON T N V VALVE in our Attick area.WE SHUT OFF THE UNIT FROM OUR THERMOSTAT,THE ATTIC NEW GOODMAN UNIT SHUTS OFF,BUT OUTSIDE RHEEM UNIT KEEP RUNNING,AND WE SHUT IT OFF BY TURNING OFF OUR CIRCUIT BREAKER. REMEMBER THAT CONTACTOR WAS REPLACED five times during the entire time.and we still do not know why???....please help us soon.we have brand new air filters,air flow was already checked,NO BLOCKAGE WAS FOUND. only after one contractor,replaced a big size booster/hard start kit,our compressor stopped making chattering noise now.it does runs and house is cooling,but now after 12 hours of running, ice on freon line and on TNV valve seen...???
 
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Old 05-14-15, 05:31 AM
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If the outside condenser keeps running after the thermostat is satisfied and the indoor unit shuts down, the evaporator and suction line will most likely freeze. So your problem is with the control signal to the condenser or a stuck contactor.
 
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Old 05-17-15, 08:15 AM
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I am thinking that your system is over sized (you have biggest they normally sell for residential) which is making your problems worse. Your ductwork also may not have enough capacity to handle the output.

If the outside unit isn't turning off at all the time delay could have been installed wrong. its purpose is to keep the outside compressor running for a minimum time even if the inside unit shuts down. Did they tell you how long they set the delay for?

In addition to reviewing all the control wiring you should have them install a freeze protection control.

Since you haven't found someone who can fix the problem - post over at hvac-talk.com and ask for a recommended tech in your area.
 
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Old 05-17-15, 11:37 AM
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You have serious problems...
Many valid performance tests have shown that air conditioning systems 'on the average' only deliver to the conditioned areas between 59 & 63% of their Nominal Rated Performance.

Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump cooling performance for all the visitors here to use:

First, make sure the return air filter is clean, and then you should get a digital probe thermometer that reads in tenths degrees, (though U can use any mercury thermometer) and a low cost percent relative 'humidity gauge 'to check the 'indoor' humidity level.

If you have an air conditioner that was manufactured between 1992 and 2005 it will 'probably be' a 10 or 12 SEER (though some were higher SEER even back then) R-22 refrigerant units.

When the temperature reaches around + 80 to 95°F outdoors and the indoor temperature is 80°F and the relative humidity indoors' is right around 50% RH the outdoor condenser temperature split should be around 20 to 21°F above the outdoor temperature.

If the indoor temperature is 75° and the relative humidity is 50% then the air discharge temp-split off the condenser should be around 17°F.

The indoor temperature split between the return-air at the supply air grille closest to the air handler should be a 19 to 21°F temperature drop with either an 80°F or 75°F indoor temperature. This is also the indoor split with the higher SEER units at 13 SEER or above.

If the indoor temperature split is too high may have very low airflow which needs to be brought up to its normal CFM Rate.

If the outdoor condenser split is too high your air handler may be drawing hot outdoor air into the return from the attic causing the high condenser discharge air temperature; or it has dirty coils or lack of ambient airflow through the coils, check for cottonwood if trees are in the area.

On the new air-conditioning systems & any systems at 13 SEER or higher, the outdoor condenser split is lower than it is on the 10 to 12 SEER units; the indoor temp-split is the same.

New 13-SEER units have a condenser temp-rise 'at above conditions' of close to 17°F; a 16 or 18-SEER usually around 9 or 10°F need model numbers for more definitive numbers.

If the temps are within +/- a degree or two, that air-conditioner is performing fairly well; if not, call an HVAC service contractor (in your case the installing contractor) and show them your test results; tell them you want it to pass their Delivered Performance Test.

If they don't know how to perform those tests call to find someone in your area hopefully that can do those tests; with modern test instruments they are not that difficult to do.
 
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Old 05-18-15, 12:07 PM
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THANK YOU ALL,OUR UNIT WAS FIXED BY MR.DEAN SCOTT the best tech in louisiana

Mr. Scott Dean, seems an expert. He replaced our contactor in outside unit. Then he shut off the freon line valve of compressor.Then he changed the T & V valve ,which was connected to our evaporator coil in the attic.We gave him brand new sporlan brand, T & V valve for 5 ton unit(previous technician ,who put the T&V valve was for 4 ton units). Also he added freon, later on up to the required level. thermostat was checked and found good,airflow was found good,air filter was clean and new,outside unit was well maintained and clean,....Thank you all for the insight given to fix our unit.......If there is a problem, we may contact you al again.....
 
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Old 05-18-15, 12:10 PM
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THANK YOU FOR THE INSIGHT.Mr.Scott replace a new contactor....Now our unit is working good....No ice on cold line since last week....
 
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Old 05-18-15, 02:42 PM
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To see HOW it is performing do the checks in post #6 & let us know the resulting numbers...always pays to do that...
 
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Old 05-25-15, 09:29 AM
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THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR INSIGHT. SINCE LAST 15 MONTHS,WE WERE OUT OF A/C AND HEAT & SUFFERED.BECAUSE NONE OF THE MANY TECHS(greedy) IN LOUISIANA,in our AREA were unable to fix the problem. we sincerely appreciate Mr.Scott Dean, who fixed the air and heat .NOW SO FAR OUR A/C IS COOLING WELL.AND WE MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW THE GUIDLINE OF MAINTAINING THE UNITS......If we come across any problems. we will come back to you all for the insight again...thanks again...
 
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Old 05-25-15, 01:22 PM
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Your post looks like advertising.
 
 

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