Hello Community, I’m hoping someone will be able to help me with this. Here we go. We have an American Standards Allegiance 14 Air Conditioner. Model No.: 2A7A4060B1000AA, 208/230 volts, PH 1, 60 Hz, 34.0 A, Compressor Motor 25 RLA @208/230V, O.D. Motor 2.80 FLA @200/230V. It started having intermittent trouble. Sometimes we’d turn on the AC at the thermostat and could hear the inside fan start up, but it would only circulate room temperature air. I noticed that the outside unit – the compressor and fan – was not turning on. At first, I could turn the thermostat off and then back on again and the outside unit would kick on, and we’d have cool air. However, the threat remained that the unit would not kick back on once the thermostat stopped the unit at the desired temperature and attempted to start it back up. Eventually, the outside unit stopped coming on at all. This was at the end of the summer last year. It appears that finally, the AC unit (outside) will not come on at all. Whatever was going out must have finally gone out. I did some testing already. I tested the thermostat to make sure it was supplying the necessary 24 volts consistently, and it is at the thermostat. I even jumped it to make sure that we didn’t have a bad thermostat, and still no joy. The outside unit would not kick on even with voltage coming from the hot-wired thermostat. I opened up the electronic section and discovered that the relay switch was not closing and making contact. I tested the voltage there, and it was not the 24 volts it should be. However, there seems to be a safety design in that the coil on the relay is not wired directly from the house but rather indirectly off of other components inside the unit. At first, this seemed to point to a bad thermostat except that I had bypassed the thermostat and directly connected the wiring to supply the voltage. This meant it had to be something else. I decided to manually compress the relay switch and supply power. Once I did this, I noticed that the compressor kicked on, but the blower fan did not (I did this with the power off and turned the power on after making sure the relay was pressed). I immediately terminated power and pulled the fuses to the AC unit so as not to burn out the compressor. This seems to suggest a problem with the fan. Upon visual inspection, I did not notice any bulging capacitors. There are two. It appears that one is for the compressor and the other for the fan. They are connected to what appears to be a hard start relay of some kind. At this point, I’m not sure if I have a bad starter cap, a bad hard start relay switch, or a bad fan motor or something in the fan assembly such as the switchboard or whatever it is that controls the fan motor. I have not taken it apart to check any of that yet. I was looking around for replacement parts. However, it seems hard to find replacement parts for this unit. The capacitor that I think is for the fan is the following: 21A101147P03 135-162 MFD 330 VAC 50/60 Hz T-Max 65 degrees C The other capacitor that I think is for the compressor is the following: 27L322 80 MFD 50/60 Hz GE Capacitor The start capacitor relay 3arr22j24n4 I think this belongs to the RLY02711 (I am not positive), but I mainly seem to be able to find the RLY01869 online. The fan motor: 5SME39HL with the addition of HY71 in big letters. I can find 5SME39HL motors but they usually do not end with HY71. It appears to me that somewhere in this range of parts is the culprit assuming there is no problem with wiring. I have yet to check these things. However, before I do, I wanted to get an idea of the price of replacement parts. After a lot of checking around online, I found it hard to find many of the parts that I need. Some are labeled obsolete. Others seem to have similar parts, but I do not know what is safe to use or not. I’m not worried about the capacitors as I have been able to find suitable replacements for them. The fan motor seems to be another story. My question is what parts would be safe to use as a replacement for these parts if they should turn out to be the culprit? For example, I can find 5SME39HL motors, but I can’t find HY71 exactly. I have found HY62 and HY73 for example. If I needed to buy a replacement fan motor, would one of these work with the existing circuitry? Does the HY71 part of the model number even matter when looking for a replacement fan motor? Is the 5SME39HL part of the model number the only part to worry about (ex. 5SME39HL HY62 versus 5SME39HL HY71 versus 5SME39HL HY73, etc.)? Would I have to replace anything else in order to make it work? What about the start capacitor relay? I don’t know exactly which one to get. The only meaningful number I was able to pull off of it was 3arr22j24n4. Google seems to lead to the above mentioned start capacitor relays, but again, I don’t know which ones I can actually use. I’m a little out of my depth on this. If I could find the exact same parts, I could make the changes pretty easily. But when it comes to using different parts (even if only slightly), I don’t know enough to know how safe that would be with the other existing components or what other components would need to be changed to accommodate the new component. Another thing I read or saw somewhere was that it may not be the fan motor. Instead, it may be the board that controls the fan motor. There’s information on testing the control module as well as the motor using a tool that I do not have (TECMate). Any help would be appreciated. Can I safely use a 5SME39HL motor with something other than HY71 on the end? Can I replace the 3arr22j24n4 with the RLY02711 or the RLY01869? Will the “new” (or used since new seems hard to find for some of these parts) motor already have a control module in it? Thanks in advance.

I am putting a split system AC in and I planned to secure it to the foundation of my house. But the brackets I got are too long. They are intended to be installed in an "L" instead of a "7" The vertical piece is 20 inches long. My house has the foundation come up 2 feet and then there is vinyl siding above that. If the brackets were to be installed as a "7" then the vertical piece would bolt into the foundation and all would be well. But as an "L" the vertical piece would need to be on the vinyl in order for the horizontal piece to sit above the ground by a foot or so , which is what I am looking for. I dont want to attach to the vinyl part because I wont even know where the studs are. So I figure I can cut the vertical piece with a hacksaw and take 10 inches or so off it. Then I can attach it to the concrete and my unit would still be raised a good foot off the ground. But, I could also just build a simply platform on the ground. The only concern is that I havent seen anyone do this in all of my research. So maybe there is a reason why? I figure I could stack pressure treated 4x4s in a box shape, 3 or 4 rows high, which would give me my 12 or so inches. It seems so very simple but I have never noticed anyone do that. Would there be too much movement as the wood dries out? I know these tend to warp sometimes, but my lengths would be pretty short (the box would be about 3'x2') so I wouldnt expect too much warping. Any thoughts on this?