Not sweating, Not cold enough, possible R22contaminaion ?


Old 06-15-15, 05:58 AM
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Not sweating, Not cold enough, possible R22contaminaion ?

Hello ( re: R22contamination )

I have a TRANE XR12 3.5 Ton R22 Condensor that was shipped with dry gas in it. My installer thought it was charged with FREON. It caused high pressure on the load side to 350lbs..after determining this error he evacuated the system and re-charged the unit with new R22 Freon... ( he did not read the sticker stating it had DRY GAS installed next to pipe )

NOW, the unit is "some what" working. It does not get colder than 75. It was 90 degrees yesterday and it took 5-6 hours that first night to get down to 76..Yesterday I tried to get it down to 72 to check it out and it NEVER got below 75 even at night when it went down to 80 degrees outside.

The airflow and meter readings he did seemed perfect, ( 225 lbs and 40 degrees - he stated ) BUT the pipe is NOT cold and NOT sweating outside. The coil is NOT iced over and the inside pipe is NOT cold and icey... My other unit is sweating and cold ?

Is it still contaminated ?? I am not comfortable that this unit is working ?

All input is apprectiated. ( he is willing to come back, what else can we suggest?)

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Old 06-15-15, 06:30 AM
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Call the installer back and ask him to check high/low pressure and subcool/superheat of the unit. Get delta-T inside of the house to verify. He may have to redo the vacuum and recharge the unit if
it is contaminated.
Old 06-15-15, 07:34 AM
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If he uses a micron gauge it would tell if it still has contaminated. Super heat and subcooling is a must. Also what type of metering device?
Old 06-15-15, 08:06 AM
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The installer's mistake is costing you a lot o money for R-22; that should not have happened. Do some testing -

Simple easy anyone can do ways to check the performance of your central air conditioner so, if needed, you can call an Energy Efficiency HVAC Technician.

If you want me to run a ballpark analysis, (or do it yourself,) of how your system is performing in respect to its 'Nominal Rated Btuh' you/we need at least the following numbers:

Performance Data Collection – Best Time to collect data is Late afternoon around 4:30 pm, when attic is HOT; also when outdoor temps are around 85; 95; 105F or, anywhere in between.

*All you need is a good thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) & and indoor Humidity Gauge

1) Helpful; Tonnage & SEER of Unit & outdoor condenser model number: __________________

2) TXV or, orifice metering device? _______. Only if U know…

3) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ______°F

Subtract Outdoor air temperature: _______ - from cond. air _______ = Condenser Air-Temp-Split ______°F

4) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - away from Supply-Air outlets ______

5) Indoor Return-Air Temperature ______ °F

Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temperature ______ °F

Indoor temperature-split _______°F

Need the above information for troubleshooting & performance analysis.
Reply with this chart quoted & filled-in.
Old 06-15-15, 08:18 AM
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Sorry about your misfortune however it's DIY's policy to not discuss charging and system pressures.

I call your attention to this posted forum guideline.
Old 06-15-15, 05:13 PM
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I think replacement dry charged R22 units are the only R22 condenser units you can buy ?

If you can get your A/C guy to actually fix it , fine , as long as you make him understand he messed up and you are not going to pay him another thin dime .

If you are going to be out some more $$$ , better get some one that knows what he / she is doing .

Best of luck

God bless
Old 06-15-15, 05:20 PM
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Most all licensed contractors would have known about the dry units.
Old 06-16-15, 04:11 AM
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I am not a HVAC tech , just a DIY'er . And I know about dry charged units .

They contain no refrigerant . Just the required refrigerant oil and a charge of dry nitrogen ( pressurized ) to keep out air and moisture .

Sounds like your installer was not ready for prime time . :-(

Best of luck .

God bless

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