Compressor Not Starting

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  #1  
Old 06-15-15, 01:06 PM
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Compressor Not Starting

OK, so my air is not working and I need help troubleshooting.

Thermostat is set to COOL, AUTO (fan) and set 10 degrees below inside temp.

The fan on the furnace kicks in and runs just fine, however the air conditioner unit outside does nothing.

I have checked the breaker and even reset it, nothing.

If I pull the cover of the compressor and push the center button on the Contactor Relay, it will run and cool as long as I stand there and hold it in.

I did a check on the fuses on the outside box by the air unit, and they check for continuity, so I am pretty sure they are fine. Still nothing. Thermostat kicks in, starts the fan, but the compressor will not start.

I emptied the Little Giant VCMA-15ULS 554405 VCMA Series Automatic Condensate Removal Pump as it was a little skanky and quiet full (not overfull, but up there), and still nothing.

Now There is a pvc pipe, 1/2" that goes from the pump to a black box with markings 828108/11 on it. The PVC is broke and I put it back the best I could, but it is not at all tight or fitting properly. I cannot find anything on this box to get a replacement ordered and have no idea what it is even called. The PVC comes off the pump and goes into this and the top of the black box has two soft tubes that are clamped on.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-15-15, 03:38 PM
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While it's unlikely that the thermostat is bad, here's a simple test you can do to rule it out. Turn off the power to the air handler (furnace or blower). Remove the thermostat and connect the wires going to the R, Y, and G terminals together. R is the 24VAC that powers the thermostat, Y is the wire going to the outside unit (that energizes the contactor), and G is the wire that controls the blower. If you connect all 3 wires together and then switch the power back on, the blower should come on. If the outdoor unit now turns on, the thermostat is bad. Alternatively, if you have a voltmeter, you could just check the voltage at the thermostat. Set your voltmeter to AC volts and read between the R and Y terminals with the thermostat calling for cooling. If the thermostat is working, you should read 0 VAC. If it's not working properly, it will likely read ~24VAC.

If the thermostat is good, you'll need a voltmeter to progress further. You need to check for 24VAC at the control signal terminals (usually the side terminals) of the contactor when the thermostat is calling for cooling.
 
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Old 06-15-15, 05:01 PM
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A $ 10 meter from Harbor Freight will do what you need .

Go out side and see if the low voltage cable going to the condenser / outside unit is in flex conduit or rin " wild " . If it is run wild , has it been damaged vy pets , vermin or weed eater ?

God bless
Wyr
 
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Old 06-15-15, 07:02 PM
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Thanks for the responses gentlemen. I will try some tomorrow, the other when it quits pouting this week. I appreciate the help.
 
  #5  
Old 06-18-15, 11:12 AM
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Tried the three wire connection, hooking R, Y and G. Same thing. Furnace blower turns on, but the condenser never kicks in.

I checked the low voltage wire that looks like a phone line, and it all seems to be intact. If I push in that center button on the contactor the unit kicks on and runs great as long as I hold it in. I am not confident enough to poke around with the multimeter at this time as I have recently suffered a head injury and stability/shakyness makes it a bit scary, even for my standards. 3 months ago I would have poked away and taken the hit, not so much these days.

Just becuse it is old and filthy, I did purchase a new condensation pump and will install that once I figure outthe black boxit connects to.
 
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Old 06-18-15, 01:12 PM
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Also, can anybody tell me what this is called so I can order a replacement? The white PVC goes to the pump located on the floor.

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  #7  
Old 06-18-15, 02:26 PM
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That is your condensate trap for the furnace.
 
  #8  
Old 06-18-15, 06:41 PM
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Thank you good sir, got that ordered and on the way! Not sure that will solve the initial problem, but quite honestly, it needs to be replaced as it s broken. I appreciate all the help.
 
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Old 06-18-15, 08:03 PM
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Look for the two wires (cable) that goes to the A/C condensor. See if there is 24vac on that pair of wires inside the splice box area. There should be wirenutted splices. You can turn the 240vac off to the condensor while you're checking.
 
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Old 06-19-15, 01:27 AM
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Excellent call . :-)

Pretty much what I was going to tell him . With the condenser disconnect off ( check to verify the power is off , with a meter ) , all he should have inside the condenser is 24 VAC , which should not harm him . A tingle , maybe if his hands are wet / sweaty .

The economy class condenser units often do not have temperature and / or pressure safeties .

If that is what he has , the 24 VAC from the furnace probably goes directly ( if it is straight A/C & not a heat pump ) to the contactor .

If 24 VAC is not present inside the condenser , he needs to follow the low voltage cable from there to the furnace .

A cheat / short cut would be to check at the furnace to see if there is 24 VAC where that cable is connected / terminated .

If not , follow it back to the tstat . Best I remember the " cool " wire is usually yellow .

Best of luck ! :-)

God bless
Wyr

Fairly cut and dry . If you have 24 VAC at the contactor coil terminals , it should pull the contactor in & the unit should run . Fan and compressor .

If 24 VAC is present & the contactor does not pull in , replace the contactor . They are not very expensive .
 
  #11  
Old 06-19-15, 02:04 AM
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My son-in-law Shane shouod be able to help with the lack of stedy hands today. tHanks for the tips and help folks, I do appreciate it.
 
  #12  
Old 06-19-15, 03:18 AM
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Just remember , shut the power off & double check that it is off , with a meter .

God bless
Wyr
 
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