Rheem model 13AJN30A01 - AC stopped working tonight, fan not blowing air, temp above 80. Decided to turn unit/thermostat off, and then on again. No change, fan did not come on and no cooling.
Then, went outside and although no visible damage or smoke, there is a pretty loud clicking noise while fan is not turning and it smells a bit like electrical burn. I quickly turned the unit off again.
Any idea based on this info? Can it be fixed DIY? Based on what I read so far, it could be capacitor or control board switch (relay) gone bad.

 

Remove the service panel and inspect for melted wire connections and swollen capacitors.

 

Hi, Houston204! I removed the cover and no melted wire or swollen capacitors. Link

 

It sounds like you probably need a new motor.

Did the compressor run without the fan motor in your test?

Could the ticking noise have been the condenser coil changing temperature and getting hot?

Take a look at these 2 dual capacitors. The cap on the right gave me a reading of 0 microfarad between C and Herm.

It isn't very swollen.




Do you have a multimeter?

 

Could be bad bearings. Does the motor spin freely with power removed?
If it is locked up, you need a new motor and capacitor.

If it spins freely you can check the motor windings and cap.


This Uni-T UT210E is most impressive meter that I have owned for under $50.
It checks up to 2000 microfarad capacitors as well as AC and DC current, and voltage and millions of Ohms. I use it many times a day during the week while my Fluke, Klein and Fiedlpiece clamp meters are in the truck.




If you have an Ohm meter, you can turn off power unplug the 3 wires to the motor and measure the resistance between the wires.



I would say that orange is run, black is common and brown is start to your fan motor.

 

Thanks so much for your time! The compressor did not run during test, just making continuous clicking noise. And answering to your other message - yes, the fan spins freely when pushed by hand. I will go buy the Ohm meter you recommended (hope I find it)

 

In a crunch, I would pick up a Klein clamp meter from Home Depot.
The CL200 would serve the average DIYer very well and it runs around $60.

I have the Klein CL2300 which was probably their best clamp meter when I picked it up 18 months ago.

I got that Uni-t meter from Amazon for $38 and it has a quality feel and has given me great service so far. My other 3 True RMS truck stock clamp meters are over $200 but I use this one the most.

I am considering upgrading my review...

http://www.amazon.com/Andoer-UT210E-...s=Uni-t+UT210E

 

Ok, I also looked at the unit in the attic this morning, the drip tray has 1/12 in. (2mm) water and the AquaGuard sensor is blinking red and making a clicking noise. I noticed the clicking at the outside unit is actually in sync with the water sensor clicking in the attic.
I removed the sensor from the tray and placed near the tray. It still clicks, however much slower, probably because still being a bit wet. Then tried to turn the AC unit back on - it started as normal! However, I went outside to check, the fan was running, but in short bursts, few seconds on, then stopped, still hearing the (slower) clicking noise that syncs with the drip sensor clicks.
I intend to let the drip sensor dry completely with the unit OFF, then try again later.
Will update.

 

What is the model number of your aquagard?

 

Model is AG-3000E for the AquaGuard drip tray humidity sensor.

 

It would make sense to wire the overflow sensor to the compressor. I think those sensor activate.pulse in 60 second increments.

Once the probes dry out the sensor should reset unless it got water inside it.

 

I was able to identify the issue: SINGLE POLE Contactor for outdoor condensing unit contactor for Rheem. I can't find a name for the part.... Do you know where to buy this? My AC guys were going to charge me $500.

Now, I read that the contactors can be for 24V, but also for 230V. And AMPs can be different, 25, 30, 40, etc. Based on the linked pictures, which one do I need? I think I found two here - just need to make sure I get the right part.

 

The coil voltage is 24vac and the switching voltage is 240vac.
Either of those contactors will work. For the few bucks extra.... go for the "50"A model.

How did you arrive that it is the contactor ? If the water sensor has an issue it will keep the contactor from energizing correctly. Did you use a meter to verify that the 24vac to the contactor was stable ?

 

PJmax, the contactor looks burnt, and the little "tongue" fell off when I opened the back cover.
I also noticed the label under the contactor, serial number or model D70637.098. Based on the info on my condenser unit label, what part is correct? 25Amp 230V contactor? Are there any interchangeable or generic parts?

I didn't use a meter (I don't have one yet).

 

That contactor is toast.
I would not consider a 25 amp replacement.
I would use a single pole 40 amp contactor with a 24vac coil. (That is what I stock in single pole)

 

I replaced the contactor. ALL GOOD! Thanks Houston204 and PJmax for all your support!!!

 

That is the reason your contactor is toast. If this switching problem is not corrected..... the new contactor will be damaged too.

 

Houston 204 ...I'm needing to replace the contactor in my Rheem that is still under warranty any idea where can I get the part under warranty -- i don't want the labor expense.

 

If you have a water problem at the air handler unit , you need to fix that problem .

Contactors are pretty generic . make sure the replacement is the same coil voltage - 24 VAC & rated for at least the same or higher amperage . And there is enough physical space to mount it . The line voltage contacts would all be rated at 240 VAC .

God bless
Wyr