I have this unit in my garage, been using it for 4 years and it seems that the water stays in the unit near the condensor and evaporates....never drained out before.

Just recently it started leaking inside, my buddy who gave it to me said something about if it doesn't drain then it will evaporate off the condenser coil so I never messed with it, always worked fine.

Does this need to drain regardless?

I do have it tilted to the outside and the model # is FAA067P7A

 

If it is slightly tilted downward to the outside, the condensate should run toward the outside, where it is picked up by the condenser fan & "flung" into the coil. This helps cool the condenser coil. It sounds like you may have some clogged drain holes in the pan under the inside evaporator coil, and the water is overflowing into the room, rather than running out to the fan. Remove the front grill & do some CAREFUL probing with a piece of wire. DO NOT DAMAGE THE EVAPORATOR COIL OR ITS PIPES, OR ANY ELECTRICAL WIRES.
Let us know how it goes.
Andy

 

Unplug before probing.

 

I have several window shakers . They so not drip . So , I always figured they evaporated the water internally .

But , we live in a mostly dry climate , so I may not be getting as much condensate as you ?

God bless
Wyr

 

Sorry for the lengthy respond time, the unit is tilted downward and I do have a drain near the sill that has a drain tube to drain outside if it gets too full of water.

I removed the unit yesterday and cleaned it up real good, once back together it ran and cooled good but overnight it iced up again. It iced up after I posted that it was leaking and I want to say it was from some dirt and debris that has accumulated over time blocking the drain.

Can the pressures be checked on these?

Frigidaire model # FAA067P7A
serial # IK70445858

 

Was it icing up previously ?

That white covered metal tube is the thermostat probe. It's probably not where it belongs. It needs to be close to the coil but not touching it. It may also need to be located higher on the coil.

When you had it out.... did you try pouring water in the front pan to see if it traveled to the outside pan ? It's usually the small passage under the coils that gets plugged.

There are no fittings for checking the charge level.

 

It never iced up until the coils became dirty from the pollen, etc. The inside tray was pretty dirty but not horribly. The temp probe appears to be in the factory clips and it's about 1/4" from the coil. The water travels from the evap coil to the condenser.

 

Something else I meant ask, if this unit is on it's way out....what would you recommend for a reliable window unit? My garage is about 250 sq ft, but I would like the option to bring it inside if my outdoor unit ever failed so I could cool a few rooms. I don't know if I would need a 450 sq ft capacity or about 12,000 BTU but would like the option.

I have looked at the Danco DAC12010E but I don't know much about window units as far as what's best.

I would like one that's not terribly noisy, but have about 3 fan speeds and maybe even humidity control that doesn't add more cooling when needed.

Budget would be less than $400 if possible, $300 would be better....

 

I have not taken many window shakers out of their cases , but those I had had no service fittings to connect a hose & gauge set to .

If you can install a service fitting yourself , go for it and check the refrigerant pressure in the suction line ( install a second one & you can monitor it on the liquid line , too ) .

We did this on a small used window shaker my cousin bought for $ 25 . ( It obviously had a tiny leak . )

We added a small amount of refrigerant & it is now cooling . ( I have an EPA card in my pocket . )

But , to pay an A./C tech to do this on a small / cheap window shaker ?

Probably be cheaper to buy a new one .

God bless
Wyr