Hi every one. I'm from Texas. My air conditioning start having problems a week ago. The ac guy came and said the the contactor and the capacitor need to be replaced, he also charged my system by 2lbs . After his repair, my fan wouldn't come on. I shut the system for 2 hrs and when he came to power the system, everything worked! He recommended to change out the fan if it happens again. The capacitor was reading 5, he said everything looks good. I bought a new fan and installed it myself. When I took the old one out, it was so hot, I couldn't even touch it for a second, it would burn instantly. So I got a new one installed. It worked but the problem was after the inside reached the designated temp, the fan outside wouldn't stop running. He came back and said the is no power going to control board, it needs a new board. I got a new control board and installed it. I still have the same issue with the fan. Btw, it turns out the new fan blown, so i put the old one back on. It's either won't start back up after running for couple of hours ( and it gets too hot ) or when it's running, I have to turn it off manually. I attached the green wire and red wire to make sure it's not the thermostat issue. What do you guys think? Thank you so much

 

Welcome to the forums.

I see a lot of confusion here.
I see a tech that doesn't know what he's doing.

I'm guessing this is a heatpump system ?
When you installed the new fan motor did you use the required size capacitor ?

The fan was running. What was the compressor doing ?
A defective defrost timer board should not keep the fan running.

Make and model of outside unit will be needed.

 

Thank you. Yes it's a heat pump unit. They are both carrier units. 2.5 ton. It came with the house that was built in 2007. The fan is running while the compressor shuts down. After I shut off the fan manually from outside (@ this point the fan is burning up). When unit inside start running again, the compressor starts working but fan doesn't come on, so the system shuts down due to overheating of the compressor ( I am assuming it has a sensor ). About the sizing of capacitor, I am not sure. When I asked, he said it's the right size for my unit.

 

The inside unit is FY4ANF 030000AAAA
the outside unit is 25hba330a0030010

It seems like the fan won't start till it cools down again. What could cause it to get so hot?

 

Connecting the wires to the capacitor incorrectly will do this.

Brown should be on Fan and blue should be on Herm.
2 yellow wires should be on C.

You will have 3 yellow wires on Com and 2 blue on Herm if someone added a start kit.

http://www.new.hvacpartners.com/partnerportal/home.aspx

 

The capacitor is 370 or 440 vac 50-60 hz. 5.0 mfd.
5x370/440 usa2029 by amrad.
The brown wire is on capacitor. The black one goes to the control board on the upper side and yellow is on com. I have 3 yellow, one blue, one blue/pink, and one brown/yellow that goes to control board.

 

My fan has only 3 wires, and the capacitor has only two prompt. Doesn't have to be a dual capacitor?

 

What's that ?

You should have a dual cap with three leads.
If you a have a single cap with two leads.... post more pictures so we can see all the wiring.

 

Looks like someone added a cap for the fan. Should be wired like this:

 

You need a bridge between the Com terminal on the big cap (which has the yellow wires) and one side of the fan motor cap if you have a 3 wire motor.

Kinda like the picture that I drew that Skaggsje has posted. 3 wire

A dual cap would have been better.

 

Yes, he added a single cap. The black wire from fan ( it has 3 wires: blk, yellow, brown ) goes to defroster board (it's a heat pump system ) then another black goes from the defroster board str8 to connector. The yellow one from fan goes str8 to connector. The brown wire from fan goes to single cap. A yellow bridge goes from single cap to the fan on dual cap. A yellow goes from connector to dual cap. Is this wiring right? The fan body is burning hot, even if it's not running over 4 hrs. It's hot just being plugged in!
I post pictures when I get home, it's too hot to stay at home with little kids, I had to crash with relatives for the evening.

 

Thx for everyone's help. You guys are awesome. It seemed like the wiring was wrong. I took the single cap out of equation and rewired the fan. It seems like the problem is fixed :-)

 

If that dual cap is actually below specs you might need a new dual cap.

This diagnosis is in question since your tech's abilities are in question.

 

Yes, I am planning to buy a new dual cap since I took the single cap out and put a new fan on. Just have to wait till Monday when stores open back up. My tech said, all he did was just exchange the old single cap with a new one. But I had no problems with the fan for last 4 years. So someone isn't telling the entire truth.

 

I wonder if the new cap was a dud.
It would have been a good idea for him to check the new one.

 

Please forgive me , but what is wrong with running 2 capacitors ? Assuming both are OK and wired correctly ?

My 4 ton condenser now has 2 capacitors . And I think , I have 2 spares on the shelf . They are not all that $$$ .

Especially if you plan to hang onto the equipment several more years .

This kind of stuff seems to go bad , for the home owner , on the weekend . :-(

When the supply houses are closed .

God bless
Wyr

 

No, we check the new one, it was reading correctly

 

The actual problem was that there should be two wires going going to the capacitor, but after he switched out the old single cap, he only connected one wire to the cap. The other one went to the defroster board (it was correct ) and the yellow one went to the contactor ( that was wrong )the yellow and the brown should both go to cap. Brown to fan, yellow to c. It's all fixed. Thanks to all of you guys

 

If you have a dual capacitor fail between Com and Fan the entire dual capacitor need to be replaced.

I cringe every time that I run a service call to see that someone has only replaced half of a bad dual cap.



If the original capacitor is working fine but the fan side is incorrect for the fan motor 2 caps is fine.

It is also okay to replace a dual cap with 2 caps.

 

I am guilty of that , working on my own equipment . 1/2 of the capacitor failed , added a new single cap . Some time latter , the other 1/2 failed . Replaced that with another single cap .

But , if I was working on some one elses equipment , I would replace the dual cap . So as not to need to charge them for a 2nd service call , some where down the line .

God bless
Wyr

 

It would be wise for everyone to take their own performance readings, to compare our findings later to any contractor's data, of which you need a complete record.

This is NOT a DIY fix; all you need is a good digital air-temp probe thermometer (or mercury; digital reading in tenths preferable) an HVAC Supply might sell you one; and a low cost 'Digital INDOOR Humidity Monitor' > ACU-RITE Digital only $8.94 at Walmart (or over the Internet); Walmart has one at +$13.00 now, may be more accurate? Shows if %humidity is too high/too low or OK. Check to see if it registers the temperature correctly; if not, take it back for a Full Refund.

1) Helpful: condenser 'Tonnage' & SEER Rating of Unit &/or model number:

2) TXV or, orifice metering device? __. Only if U know; not critical…

3) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ___°F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: __°F

Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split ___°F

4) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___%RH
Also, get outdoor humidity from online weather info, etc., & wind velocity list it here. ___%RH; Wind: ___mph
Weather Forecast by Zip Code (your local conditions)

5)Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temperature __°F
From Return Air Temp ___°F
Indoor temperature-split = ___°F

“Reply with Quote” Fill the Numbers in where the blanks are.
Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump's cooling performance for all forum visitors to use.

There are many ways that these Numbers can help diagnose problems 'so you can call a contractor who will help you reduce your utility bills & protect the life of your compressor' & other valuable equipment.