I noticed that from time to time the air being blown in by my by a/c system is not as cool as usual. The air is not exactly warm but not as cool as usual and it does not get the room as cool as normal. It seems to correct itself after a few hours and start cooling the room as usual. Tis happens about once a week. I thought maybe it was low on freon and just needed to have some added but my a/c person says that "if it's low on freon then it has a leak and will just leak out again and that no a/c system should ose freon". The a/c guy that told me this is on the sales side of the a/c company so, of course he would rather me buy a new system than add some freon. He what he told me correct or mostly sales speak would it be a waste of time adding freon if low. They won't allow me to apply the cost of a service call to the purchase of a new system.

BTW, it's the original a/c unit that was put in when the house was new 15 years ago.

 

Sounds like sales speak to me. If it was low on refrigerant it would just stop cooling. It can't come back and start to work normally.

 

That is a minimum 10-seer A/C & ought to be made to function okay.
Test it when working okay; then test it when not cooling as well.

May be time for you to run an easy, totally safe, A/C Performance test of your own. No Kids; do not lay anything on top of the outdoor condenser, & hang onto the thermometer so it doesn't drop into the condenser fan!

All you need is a good air-temp probe thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) an HVAC Supply might sell you one; or use your mercury TH & estimate the tenths; if you don't have a humidity gauge, you need to get one ASAP; a low cost 'INDOOR Humidity Monitor' - ACU-RITE Digital only $8.94 at Wall-Mart or over the Internet; it shows you if %RH is OK; plus records high & low Humidity & Temps during a 24 hour period.
Check to see if it registers the temperature correctly; if not, take it back for a full refund.

If we find problems, you will need to contact & qualify a good HVAC Contractor to fix those performance problems.

1) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ___°F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: __°F

Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split ___°F
Condenser’s SEER Rating or Year Mfg'ered on Name Plate _____________

2) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___%RH

3) Indoor Return Air Temperature __°F Indoor Supply-Air Temperature __°F
Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temp from Return Air Temp __°F
Indoor temperature-split = __°F

We ought to have superheat & sub-cooling temps by Tech _________________.
If you know; TXV or piston metering device? _______

“Reply with Quote” Or, Copy & paste in your Reply; Fill the #numbers in where the blanks are.”
Easy Safe testing of your A/C or heat pump cooling performance for all forum visitors to use.

 

We understand that what happens when an AC is not working in hot. If your ac system is not working as cool as usual then you just contact the AC repair company.

 

Yes, come on over and have a look at it. It's kind of a long drive, though, from Nevada to Atlanta, Georgia

 

Well, if you are not willing to spend a few short minutes getting the data we need to help you, then just keep spending your money on those who may never solve the problem(s). Your option...use post #3...

 

I had a service technician come out and it was low on freon so he added some and it corrected the problem. I realize that is a short term fix and it will probably leak out again. At that point I will replace the unit as it is 16 years old. I have also had 3 quotes from various HVAC companies on replacing it.