A/C Unit no power


  #41  
Old 01-02-16, 10:43 PM
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Turn off power to the furnace at least 90 seconds before touching the capacitor terminals. It can hold a charge for a bit after removing power.

Remove the wires from the cap before testing it.

I didn't find any videos on how to clean and check a Consolidated furnace with the old style burners.
 
  #42  
Old 01-02-16, 10:56 PM
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so im testing the capacitor, oil the fan motor and cleaning the burners of any rust. Is this correct?
Is this just a maintenance thing I'm doing?
 
  #43  
Old 01-02-16, 11:06 PM
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I would just look at the burners. If you do not see a buildup of rust then just watch them burn and see if you notice a difference after the fan turns on.

If you see fire rolling out the side then you need a new furnace.

Holes or cracks in the heat exchanger will cause the normally blue flames to turn yellow.

Oiling the motor and checking the cap is just maintenance.
 
  #44  
Old 01-02-16, 11:21 PM
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okay ...so check to see if the flames are blue, if fire rolling out the side or the flames are yellow that means its bad. ...correct?
 
  #45  
Old 01-03-16, 07:43 AM
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https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=gP9ZN6nFCqk


The burners run for a minute without the blower running.
This will give you an example of what it should look like.

If the furnace vibrates you might see some general change in color but you are looking for a spot or 2 of yellow flame, dancing flame, flame rollout, or the flame lifting off of the burners.

I blew on the flames just after the blower kicked in to show the change in flame color.

The screw holes that are vacant because of you removing the panel may affect the flame but that isn't what you are looking for.

The expansion joint on the heat exchanger between the burners and the blower is a common location for a crack in the heat exchanger.
 

Last edited by Houston204; 01-08-16 at 08:45 PM.
  #46  
Old 01-03-16, 10:22 AM
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Thanks guys! I will work on it and let u know what I find.
 
  #47  
Old 01-05-16, 06:26 PM
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okay I just got my new limit controller in today. I'm trying to install it but there a yellow wire that's no where to plug it into? There no place to plug that yellow wire in the middle. Am I'm missing something here?

It says to remove the jumper?

On the old one it plug right into the middle.



notice the yellow wire on my old one....

 

Last edited by IBtyen; 06-26-23 at 03:57 PM. Reason: Fixing formatting
  #48  
Old 01-05-16, 06:41 PM
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A picture of the wiring diagram on the furnace control box may be of assistance.
 
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Old 01-05-16, 06:58 PM
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Last edited by IBtyen; 06-26-23 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Fixing formatting
  #50  
Old 01-05-16, 07:09 PM
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Yellow brings in the blower via the G circuit in cooling speed on a timer.

If the burners do not light the old fan limit would still turn on the fan. The new fan limit only brings in the fan with temperature.

If the furnace is in an attic you can feel like the AC is blowing into your home with the old style if the burners fail to light.

Your limit is low voltage.
 
  #51  
Old 01-05-16, 07:34 PM
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sorry I don't understand, so is this the wrong limit to use? I don't know what low voltage mean , i don't know what G circuit in cooling speed means.


Sorry but I'm not sure what to do next?

Where do I plug the yellow wire into? I don't know anything about this stuff. I'm just trying to get the heater working.
 

Last edited by SoildSnake; 01-05-16 at 07:51 PM.
  #52  
Old 01-05-16, 07:55 PM
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https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/60-2258.pdf


I would cap yellow at both ends and break off the tab in the new fan limit.

I don't see that a new model T is available.
I saw an old looking model T on Ebay but it looks like it has been on a shelf for decades.
 
  #53  
Old 01-05-16, 07:58 PM
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break off the tab ? Which tap are you talking about? Do you mean the jumper in the middle?
 
  #54  
Old 01-05-16, 08:00 PM
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Yes, this jumper should be removed when the limit is low voltage as shown in your wiring diagram.

I just use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove enough brass to create an open circuit.
 

Last edited by Houston204; 01-19-16 at 05:05 AM.
  #55  
Old 01-05-16, 08:15 PM
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cap off the yellow wire and remove the jumper. Got it . Thanks!
 
  #56  
Old 01-06-16, 04:39 PM
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now the blower/fan comes on right away when I turn on the power switch to the furnace... the thermostat is still OFF.


Update: Okay I guess I had to pull the white button out for it to be "full auto".
 

Last edited by SoildSnake; 01-06-16 at 05:13 PM.
  #57  
Old 01-14-16, 06:53 AM
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Is there a hazards having a consolidated furnace? Should I stop using it and replace it?
 
  #58  
Old 01-14-16, 10:29 AM
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It can be dangerous if not inspected and maintained.

I wouldn't want a 60% efficiency Consolidated furnace on my house.
 
  #59  
Old 01-16-16, 05:35 PM
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Okay I opened the door and there was the blower but I can't access burners. Theres a panel by the lower area of the burner but when I open it theres no way to get to the burners from there.
 
  #60  
Old 01-16-16, 05:50 PM
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Usually see a spot for four hex head 5/16 screws on the burner panel behind the burner panel. I usually only see two of the four screw holes with a screw.

You don't need to remove the blower panel to see the burners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZN6nFCqk
 

Last edited by Houston204; 01-19-16 at 05:08 AM.
 

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