A/C contactor not kicking in, starts fan when held in

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Old 07-02-16, 06:58 PM
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A/C contactor not kicking in, starts fan when held in

Goodman central air, has new cap, relay contactor only works when I push in the spring to close the path, is it getting the right voltage? It is getting 120v ac on all contacts, 24v on purple coil wires, when I push in the relay button, the herm on the cap reads 315v ac, am I missing something here?
What makes the spring contacts stay in & run the system?
 
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Old 07-02-16, 07:08 PM
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If you have 24V at the contactor terminals (the two small wires), the contactor button should be pulled in and stay in. If not, the contactor is bad.
 
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Old 07-02-16, 09:09 PM
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You're going to need at least a basic voltmeter. If you don't have one.... get one.

There are two wires in a cable coming from the air handler and powering the condensor unit. You need to check fro 24vac where the cable connects to the condensor. Then check it at the contactor. If you have it at the entrance to the condensor but not at the condensor there is a good chance you are low on refrigerant.

When checking the contactor..... disconnect power at the service disconnect.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 11:55 AM
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Installed new contactor, but still not pulling in contacts, when I manually push in contacts, fan will run. Here are the voltage readings when I push it in.
Load voltage: 120 AC
2 coil wires, both 24c ac
All other contacts read 120, exept condensor fan, & herm both read 230v, condensor reads 120v.
The installation manual only gives color codes on the wires, not voltages.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 01:54 PM
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The contactor is a relay. You should have 240VAC between the L1 & L2 terminals (one end of the contactor). This is the supply voltage (always present). The two terminals at the other end of the contactor are T1 & T2 (load) and should measure 240VAC between them when the contactor contacts are pulled in. The "switched" 240VAC powers the compressor and condenser fan. The terminal on the side of the contactor are the control signal voltage (24VAC). When the thermostat calls for cooling, it sends 24VAC to the outside unit (side terminals of contactor). This energizes the contactor coil causing the contacts to pull down. If you have 24VAC at the side terminals of the contactor, it should pull down, unless you purchased a contactor that requires a higher coil voltage (24VAC is pretty standard). While you're troubleshooting the contactor (getting it to pull down), you can turn off the 240VAC power to the outside unit (should be an electrical disconnect nearby), eliminating the chance of getting electrocuted while working on the unit. Once you get the contactor to pull down, then you can turn the power back on.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 04:52 PM
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Did you test the 24V at the contactor itself (at its contact terminals). ?
 
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Old 07-05-16, 08:52 PM
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2 coil wires, both 24c ac
As clocert mentioned..... you want to check between the two wires not from either wire to ground.

I also left specific test instructions that need to be followed. You need to determine if the problem is from the inside to the condensor or inside the condensor itself.

When you are checking the AC line to a 240v device... you need to confirm 240VAC across the two hot wires.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 09:58 PM
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Not sure why you had two threads on the same exact topic but they've been merged and this is the only thread running now.
 
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Old 07-14-16, 12:10 AM
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Had to call the installer, as everything was pointing towards the wiring, on his third attempt to wire it right, he had left the jumper in the twinner. I tried to repair it myself, as I did not want him back in my house, even though he has been in business in this town at least 10 years, he had that look of someone on parole from prison, & had caught him in a couple lies. He tried to bully me into paying him $100, even though it was under warranty & his screwup. I see on the BBB page there were similar complaints on him, this would be one for the "caught on camera", as I think he creates callbacks, to overcharge. Now I have to check the furnace, & make sure he didnt mess with that wiring. Dont think Amana would take a shine to him being their dealer, am out just the $37 in parts, but at least have the knowledge to troubleshoot the whole system after investing a couple weeks into it. This is what gives a bad name to the pros.
 
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