Carrier 38br048300 Capacitor

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  #1  
Old 07-04-16, 02:49 PM
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Carrier 38br048300 Capacitor

What is the replacement volt and mdf?

Is it 440 40/5?
 
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Old 07-04-16, 03:00 PM
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If the markings on the old cap are not readable, you may have to look at the compressor & fan motor for specs.
 
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Old 07-04-16, 04:17 PM
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Are you still messing with that capacitor ??

My cross reference says....Carrier P291-3554RS dual run capacitor 35-5 @ 440v
I also see a second reference to a HC98KA041 dual run capacitor 40-5 @ 440v

I'm inclined to think the second one is the correct one.
 
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Old 07-04-16, 04:24 PM
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Hi Pete

No, my ac is working fine now. I am helping my brother n law on his AC.

i have an extra 440 volt 40/5 that I ordered two weeks ago. Is there any harm if I put it in, instead of the 440 volt 35/5?

Thank you
 
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Old 07-04-16, 04:45 PM
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Also, on my panel, I noticed that it say max amp is 50 for the fuse. I noticed the fuse installed next to the condenser are two 60 amp fuses. Does this sound right or should I get 25 amp fuses?
 
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Old 07-04-16, 06:54 PM
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If the breaker is 50 amp or lighter, the 60 amp fuses are ok. Otherwise replace the fuses with 50 amp ones.
Don't use a 40 cap if a 35 is called for. In a pinch, +/- 10% of the spec is the most you want to use.
 
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Old 07-04-16, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Grady
If the markings on the old cap are not readable, you may have to look at the compressor & fan motor for specs.
We just took the panel apart and did what you recommended. We found the markings on the old capacitor and it turned out to be a 440 volt with 40/5 which confirms PJ Max's assumption. The marking Fan, C, and Herm were all rusted so we had to scratch the rust off. So thanks for the suggestion.

I had an extra brand new capacitor with the same specs. Prior to replacing it, we tried to turn on the AC and we did not hear anything around the condenser. We only heard the fan inside the house but as for the condenser, we did not hear the fan or the compressor outside. After we changed it with the new capacitor, still nothing. What could the problem be? Today is only 75 degrees. We lowered the temperature to 68 but still did not hear the compressor or the condenser fan.

Originally Posted by Grady
If the breaker is 50 amp or lighter, the 60 amp fuses are ok. Otherwise replace the fuses with 50 amp ones.
Sorry if I did not provide enough information. Let me try again.

At the circuit breaker: there are two 50 amps switches attached together for the AC

At the condenser fuse box: there are two 60 amps fuses.

On the panel of the condenser: it say 50 amps max.

Does this sound right for the fuses or should I be using lower amp fuses, like two 40 amps? My brother N law has almost the exact same AC but his uses two 40 amps fuses.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 12:16 AM
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The two 60A fuses are ONLY there to fill the disconnect. The protection for any circuit comes from the lowest amperage protection device in the circuit. You have a 2P50A circuit breaker feeding the condensor. Therefore your condensor is protected at 50A as per the mfg's suggestion.

If you had said the unit was dead at the beginning of the thread I would have told you it wasn't the cap.

You need a voltmeter. You need to check for 240vac at that disconnect. Check it going in and coming out. Check for it at the contactor.

When you set the stat to cool.... does the contactor close ?
You were in the condensor.... was the contactor pulled in ?
In one of your threads I specifically illustrated how to manually active a contactor... did you try it ?
 
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Old 07-05-16, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by PJMax
Therefore your condensor is protected at 50A as per the mfg's suggestion.
Thank You

Originally Posted by PJMax
If you had said the unit was dead at the beginning of the thread I would have told you it wasn't the cap.
His condenser fan was still running the other day but no cold air inside the house. Today, it was a different story. We tested it before we even took the panel off to change the capacitor. The fan was not moving.

Originally Posted by PJMax
You need a voltmeter. You need to check for 240vac at that disconnect. Check it going in and coming out. Check for it at the contactor.
No, I don't need a voltmeter. I am not messing around with 240 volt. I might love him since he is my brother N law, but there is no way I am going to play around with that voltage and get electrocute it. He will be calling our AC technician tomorrow.

Originally Posted by PJMax
When you set the stat to cool.... does the contactor close ?
You were in the condensor.... was the contactor pulled in ?
Nothing was activated out in the condenser.

Originally Posted by PJMax
In one of your threads I specifically illustrated how to manually active a contactor... did you try it ?
Yes, I remember your advice on that thread. But since there was no power or movement at the condenser, there is not much to test. We didn't even hear the compressor.
 
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Old 07-05-16, 12:37 AM
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Also PJMax, will you be able to confirm or help me find contactors for both models:

Carrier 561AJ048-B (Mine)
Carrier 38br048300 (Brother N Law)

Is this it for mine: 40 Amp 1-Pole Contactor 24 Volt Coil ( Used on units Up to 5-Tons) | AmericanHVACParts.com
 
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Old 07-11-16, 12:21 AM
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We found out that we have to replace the contactor since we were able to start the condenser with a stick. No power to the condenser at all until we pressed on the contactor. Just learned a new symptom.
 

Last edited by WRDIY; 07-11-16 at 12:47 AM.
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