Goodman 4 ton 16 seer AC system


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Old 07-07-16, 07:48 PM
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Goodman 4 ton 16 seer AC system

Hi there. Having problem with AC system: Goodman GMV95 furnace and Goodman SSX160481 4 ton 16 seer AC unit.
Problem is:
When stat is set to ac and desired temp, furnace blower comes on and air can be felt from all inside registers. AC condenser fan also comes on at unit outside. However, air blowing is warm...no ac. Unit has already been working normally this season keeping house at 74 degrees constant. This just started about a week ago. (Unit is at moms house and she waited for week or so before telling me so not totally sure when it stopped working...just recently.) Nothing has happened at house that would have damaged system components ie...construction, work being done around any of the components, moving, changes, etc. AC does have an Edison box (some sort of interrupter) installed that allows Edison to cut off AC system remotely during times of extreme electrical grid usage. It has not been that hot lately for Edison to cut power and I have also tried system a few different times even at night and same problem persists. Would like to know if anyone knows anything somewhat common that I can check? I'm going to look at system this weekend more closely. Have only tried stat settings and looked for any obvious damage so far. Haven't gotten into any "diagnosing" yet. Any help, trouble trees, or diagnosing info. would really be appreciated.
Thanks.
Steve.
 
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Old 07-07-16, 07:56 PM
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You need to confirm that JUST the fan is running in the outside condensor and not the compressor. You can check by feeling the larger copper refrigerant line that goes to the house.

If the fan only is running.... the problem is in the condensor.... not inside and not the stat.
 
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Old 07-07-16, 07:56 PM
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Most likely the compressor isn't running. Could be a bad start/run capacitor, bad contactor, low refrigerant, dead compressor...

The capacitor is easy to check if you have a multimeter, and they are fairly failure prone....
 
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Old 07-07-16, 08:11 PM
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I agree with a capacitor problem or possible compressor issue.
If the refrigerant was low or the contactor was bad there would be no active fan.

I'm curious to know the age of the condensor. It is discontinued and replaced by a new unit.
First introduced in 2007.

If the unit was registered with Goodman when installed..... there is a lifetime warranty on the compressor and ten year warranty on all other parts. If the unit wasn't registered.... it carries a basic five year parts warranty.

Goodman-Warranty.pdf
 
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Old 07-07-16, 11:04 PM
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System was installed late 09'. I will check compressor / condenser / fan operation this weekend.
So if contactor is bad, compressor and condenser fan will NOT operate?
If capacitor is bad, condenser fan will work but compressor will NOT?
Is capacitor used to help start compressor?
Where and what is contactor?
Lots of questions. Trying to learn!!
Thanks for all the advice!
 
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Old 07-08-16, 08:16 AM
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Yes, Pete's right. The contactor applies power to both the condenser fan and the compressor when cooling is called for, so if the fan is running the contactor is OK.

Capacitors come in various styles and configuration and can be used both to help start the compressor and to help it run efficiently. A bad cap can cause the compressor not to start.

You may have multiple capacitors or one can with multiple capacitors inside it. The condenser fan may also have a capacitor.

The contactor is a type of relay, which is a switch that can switch the high voltage and high current needed for the fan and compressor under the control of the thermostat. It uses low voltage and current to control high voltage and high current in a safe manner. The contactor will be located in the outside condenser housing, as will the capacitors, condenser fan, and compressor, along with the cooling coils.
 
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Old 07-08-16, 06:35 PM
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Call around to find a good service tech that will locate the problem(s) & fix them.
 
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Old 07-09-16, 04:48 PM
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Isn't the point of this website and posts to diagnose and repair "DIY"...for everyone to kind of help each other out??
 
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Old 07-09-16, 04:57 PM
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Have you confirmed that the condenser fan (outside unit) is running? Try feeling the two copper pipes coming out of the unit. The larger one should be nice and cold if the compressor is working. If it's not cold, the compressor is likely not running. As others have said, it could be something as simple as a bad capacitor. Since capacitors are relatively inexpensive, if you want to try repairing the system yourself, I would suggest that you start by replacing the capacitor(s) (there may be more than one). If there is a readable wiring diagram on the inside of the cover on the outside unit, you may be able to determine which capacitor to replace (if there are more than one). Alternatively, you could try following the compressor wiring (power off) and see which capacitor one of the compressor wires connects to.
 
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Old 07-09-16, 05:39 PM
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update:

Update 7/9/16 430pm pst.

When cool is selected at stat and unit comes on, condenser fan IS working (along with furnace fan blowing ambient / warm air in the house), but cannot hear compressor coming on or cannot feel anything at high / low lines at rear of unit.

Seems like I can hear some type of electrical load being applied every 10 - 15 seconds (for a few seconds then off... repeating)...like compressor is trying to start???

Capacitor visually looks OK (no bulging cap or leaking anything). One terminal yellow wire, one terminal brown wire, one terminal red and purple wires. Looks like schematic shows: red and purple terminal is common? Yellow terminal is "HERM"????, and brown terminal is fan (assuming condenser fan).

With 40 amp main breaker on or off and stat off, do not have any voltage reading between any of the capacitor terminals (like no voltage stored).

With stat on...set to cool and condenser fan running, have varying voltage (260 - 335) between red/purple terminal and yellow terminal on capacitor (voltage drops to the 260 range every time I can hear electrical load applied and then goes back up around 330 when electrical load sound goes away.

Any ideas or things to check from this description??
I have not removed housing cover to access compressor yet. Not sure how easy that is without disconnecting things so I cannot check any voltage signals directly at compressor or put hands on compressor to see for sure if running or not or trying to start. Please let me know any ideas...other than call AC repairman.
Thanks.
 
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Old 07-09-16, 05:53 PM
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The Herm terminal on the capacitor is the one that is used by the compressor. While bulged capacitors are usually bad, the corollary isn't true: just because a capacitor isn't bulged doesn't mean that it's good. Unless you have a special type of multimeter that can read capacitance (to check the capacitor), the most expedient thing to try is to replace the capacitor. From your description it appears that your system uses a dual capacitor. As previously mentioned, Herm is the compressor cap, while Fan is the condenser fan cap. You should be able to pickup a replacement capacitor for
 
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Old 07-11-16, 11:15 PM
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Thanks!

Thank you everyone for input / help. Did find bad capacitor. System had 45/5 mfd 370 vac. Replaced with 45/5 mfd 440 vac.
Really appreciate all the help. Thanks again!!!
 
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Old 07-11-16, 11:22 PM
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Good job ! Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
 
 

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