Help with replacing dual/single run A/C capacitor(s)
#1
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Help with replacing dual/single run A/C capacitor(s)
I have two capacitors in my outside AC unit, my fan has stopped working and makes a buzzing sound. I did the screw driver trick and it seemed to work for a little while
here is one of the capacitors, fan terminal is not connected, blue wire goes into HERM, it is an Aeromet ii m26p4440w05:

and the other:

I tried to replace the Aeromet with a Motor Dual Run Capacitor Round 40 + 5 uf MFD 440 Volt, as seen below

but then decided not to turn anything on, since it's too risky as I'm not even sure this is the correct replacement since it's DUAL RUN...
I was thinking of disconnecting the brown wires to the smaller cap, and connecting them to the new capacitor's FAN terminal
Hoping someone can help
here is one of the capacitors, fan terminal is not connected, blue wire goes into HERM, it is an Aeromet ii m26p4440w05:

and the other:

I tried to replace the Aeromet with a Motor Dual Run Capacitor Round 40 + 5 uf MFD 440 Volt, as seen below

but then decided not to turn anything on, since it's too risky as I'm not even sure this is the correct replacement since it's DUAL RUN...
I was thinking of disconnecting the brown wires to the smaller cap, and connecting them to the new capacitor's FAN terminal
Hoping someone can help
#2
Welcome to the forums.
Not quite sure what you're doing there.
A capacitor's capacitance must match. The voltage can be higher.
You have/had two separate caps.... why are you putting in a dual ?
The 7.5 @ 440v is the defective cap.
Not quite sure what you're doing there.
A capacitor's capacitance must match. The voltage can be higher.
You have/had two separate caps.... why are you putting in a dual ?
The 7.5 @ 440v is the defective cap.
#6
The picture is a 3 wire application.
I would have used a 40 plus 7.5 440VAC dual cap.
Brown to F(an)
Red to C(om)
Blue to H(erm)
Throw away the brown with a white stripe jumper wire.
Since you have already purchased the 40 Mfd cap it would be cheaper to just get a 7.5Uf cap at this time and keep the jumper wire installed.
I would have used a 40 plus 7.5 440VAC dual cap.
Brown to F(an)
Red to C(om)
Blue to H(erm)
Throw away the brown with a white stripe jumper wire.
Since you have already purchased the 40 Mfd cap it would be cheaper to just get a 7.5Uf cap at this time and keep the jumper wire installed.
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I have already purchased these:
Motor Dual Run Capacitor Round 40 + 5 uf MFD 440 Volt
Run Capacitor Single MFD Dual Voltage 370/440 Volts (Oval, 7.5 MFD)
Is it possible to get the system to work with the above?
I tried replacing only the Run Capacitor (7.5MFD), and the fan does not spin, just a buzzing noise
I can get the AC to work at night when it's cooler, so something is overheating
Motor Dual Run Capacitor Round 40 + 5 uf MFD 440 Volt
Run Capacitor Single MFD Dual Voltage 370/440 Volts (Oval, 7.5 MFD)
Is it possible to get the system to work with the above?
I tried replacing only the Run Capacitor (7.5MFD), and the fan does not spin, just a buzzing noise
I can get the AC to work at night when it's cooler, so something is overheating
#8
If you changed the 7.5uf run cap..... then the motor is bad.
Does it spin free when cold and bind when it gets hot ?
Does it spin free when cold and bind when it gets hot ?
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so without changing anything, the AC will work (but fan buzz is there) until about 12 noon when it gets hot (i'm assuming) then the fan does not spin, just hums/buzzes
just replacing the run capacitor, didn't change anything far as i can tell... just buzzes no movement, it's a dual voltage 370/440 (vs just 440 for original), does that matter?
this sounds like it's going to be an expensive fix
just replacing the run capacitor, didn't change anything far as i can tell... just buzzes no movement, it's a dual voltage 370/440 (vs just 440 for original), does that matter?
this sounds like it's going to be an expensive fix

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accidentally shorted the run capacitor while in operation and there was a pop sound. one of the terminals is now black, so that capacitor is definitely shot
i just hope i haven't damaged anything else
the buzzing sound is now gone, but it has been replaced with the sound of silence
did i just burn out a fuse?
i just hope i haven't damaged anything else
the buzzing sound is now gone, but it has been replaced with the sound of silence
did i just burn out a fuse?
#11
If you shorted across the capacitor terminals, you probably didn't damage the capacitor. In all likelihood you burned out one of the motor windings. Of course, it's possible that the circuit breaker tripped before the motor burned out. You'll have to either check the breakers or check for 240VAC at the outside unit.
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yep, just tripped the circuit breaker, reset it and it works again, but fan is loud and makes a buzzing noise, i replaced the aeromet capacitor
fully expecting it to die again when it gets too hot, probably won't happen today since it's cooler
i'll have to figure out if replacing the fan/motor is the best option
fully expecting it to die again when it gets too hot, probably won't happen today since it's cooler
i'll have to figure out if replacing the fan/motor is the best option
#13
i'll have to figure out if replacing the fan/motor is the best option
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how do i reply with a quote? can't find that button on this forum
no i don't mean to replace the whole system, i see fan motors on ebay for $60. but if it's another cheaper fix, i'll go that route instead
i actually think i caused the problem, when i was cleaning the fins, i started unscrewing the fan assembly for some reason and couldn't really screw it back tight again... a month or two later i ran into my current problem
no i don't mean to replace the whole system, i see fan motors on ebay for $60. but if it's another cheaper fix, i'll go that route instead
i actually think i caused the problem, when i was cleaning the fins, i started unscrewing the fan assembly for some reason and couldn't really screw it back tight again... a month or two later i ran into my current problem
#15

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