My condenser is a BDP (Carrier) 569BB048 around 30 yrs. old.
The condenser fan motor went out so I brought it down to the local supply shop for a replacement.
They pulled out a US Motors 1861 universal motor and a 7.5mfd capacitor to go with it.

I explained that my unit was configured with a 30/10mfd dual cap (with the 10mfd side going to the old motor) and another, physically separate 30mfd cap. The 30/10mfd cap and the 30mfd caps are in addition to the round start cap for a total of three capacitors, one being a dual capacitor.
both of the 30mfd caps are wired up (I assume to the compressor) and all the caps tested OK.

The guy at the supply shop said there was something wrong here and someone may have "Macgyvered" it.
That's possible as I'm not the 1st homeowner but it doesn't seem likely as the mounting bracket appears to be made to fit these two caps and there's a terminal block which makes the wiring look neat and stock.
maybe this set up was normal 30+ yrs. ago. I don't know.

I figured that by replacing the 30/10mfd cap with a 30/7.5mfd cap to match
the new motor I'd be good but after talking to the guy at the supply shop
I'm wondering if I should be reconfiguring the capacitors.

Thank you for any input on this.

 

Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram located inside of the service panel?

It looks like that is an 8.5 SEER condenser...
http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/100...569B.18.3P.pdf

 

Welcome to the forums.

Ahhhh..... yes.... Macgyvered it. Maybe it was someones past science project.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

 

I don't see a wiring diagram. here's a pic of what I'm looking at though. Please note the motor wires have been removed. The black motor wire was connected to the top right side of the terminal block next to the black wire that's there. The yellow was connected to the bottom right side of the terminal block next to the yellow wire there and the brown wire was connected to the 7.5mfd side of the dual cap.
I hope this helps.

 

That looks like a factory setup to me. It was uncommon to see capacitors above 50 microfarad on old 1980's condensers. I have seen two run capacitors connected to the compressor on old diagrams. Those big old capacitors lasted much longer than the new small capacitors that are in use today.

If you had a diagram it would be inside of the service panel door. Many old condensers had an electrical panel behind the service panel.

The manual that I found is a 1981.

 

Thanks Houston. Yes these capacitors are BIG! I've looked everywhere and there is no wiring diagram that I can see. Since it looks factory and you seem to think it's a valid configuration I'll go ahead and swap the 30/10mfd cap for a 30/7.5 and plug the motor in.

Also, the new motor has 4 wires whereas the old had 3 with some different colors.
I'm plugging the brown wire into the cap where the old brown wire was, the black wire to where the old black wire was and the white wire to where the old yellow wire was. the 4th wire (brown w/white stripe) is not going to be used.
Do I have that right?

 

Yes, that sounds good.

I needed more characters...

 

OK. New motor & capacitor in and running with air flowing up and out.
The problem is that air coming from the registers is not getting very cold.
This morning I was getting 72 degrees at the registers and 77 degrees at the air return after running for 15 min.
I shut it down for 15 min and then turned it back on and let it run for 45 min.
Same results. I took a look at the condenser unit and saw a small pool of oil near it where the rubber line converts to metal.
I have never seen that before and before replacing the fan motor the system was blowing fairly
cold air.

 

Rubber line converts to metal ?

That sounds like a refrigerant leak.

 

Sorry. Where the rubber insulation on the line ends. See pic.

 

Some soapy water at that location can prove it is leaking.

That 35 year old condenser may not survive a pump down for the replacement of that refrigerant pipe.

A new unit would be much more energy efficient.

 

OK. Time to call in a Pro. I'm very curious as to what has happened though. Before I replaced the fan motor the air was blowing cold inside and there was no oil leaking outside.
I don't see how any of the work I've done (replace motor & cap, clean coils with a hose) could have any effect on the refrigerant line but it can't just be a coincidence. Can it?

A new unit would be great but I just can't swing it right now so I really hope the old one can hold up a bit longer.
What is involved in a pump down? And what would you expect the cost to be (ballpark range) for an HVAC pro to replace that refrigerant pipe? (I live near L.A.)
Thanks.