Trane XL14i Will Not Run


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Old 12-05-16, 10:56 PM
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Trane XL14i Will Not Run

First of all thank you in advance. Went to turn on the unit and I can't get the fan or the compressor to come on at all on heat or cold.

I need some help/guidance and I'll tell you the trouble shooting steps I took before posting this thread.

1. I checked the thermostat batteries and replaced them. Secondly I turned the breaker off and wired ROYG together and turned the breaker back on and the unit did not start.

2. I opened up the unit and eyeballed the Capictor. To my untrained eye there didn't seem to be any bulging or burnt connection.

3. I tested the contactor and the fan and the compressor seemed to function properly.

I had a friend walk me through these steps. But I was unable to test the Capictor and plan on borrowing a voltage meter tomorrow from my FIL and trying to find something to read the microfarad on the Capictor

Any other suggestions?? Steps I should take? Wanted to try to avoid a visit if that's possible. I added some pictures that may or my not help.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 10:59 PM
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Old 12-05-16, 11:18 PM
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Old 12-05-16, 11:22 PM
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Old 12-05-16, 11:24 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Wow.... what's with all the pics. The board thought it was spam and held it all.

Ok. Do you have a test meter ?
The first place to start is inside at the air handler. Locate the area where the thermostat wires connect. You need to check from R to C for 24vac.

You may have lost a fuse on the control board.

Don't do or change anything outside yet.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 11:37 PM
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I believe my father in law owns one. If not I'll pick one up tomorrow. Probably useful to have no matter what.

Sorry about all of the pictures. I didn't realize there was a limit lol.
 
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Old 12-05-16, 11:50 PM
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No problem.

A test meter is an absolute must to own. Doesn't have to be an expensive one either.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 05:32 AM
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Alright I came up with a voltage meter. I don't have anything to test the microfarad though?

In terms of the Air Handler where should I start testing?

I believe in doing some research I need to start with the breaker?

I realize that 240 is powerful and will insure the breaker is turned off and that I pull the other part out as well.

Any other tips?
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:11 AM
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Can you state again exactly what isn't working? Initially, you said that you can't get the fan or compressor to come on, yet in item #3, you state that the fan and compressor seem to function properly.

What Pete (PJMax) suggested you check for is that you have 24VAC. With your voltmeter set to AC volts, check between terminals R and C at the control board (where thermostat wires connect). If you don't have a C terminal, check between R and the air handler chassis. If you don't have 24VAX, you may have a blown fuse on the control board. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:31 AM
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Sorry Bob,

The fan and the compressor only began to work when I manually pressed down on the contactor. I was unable to get the unit to cool or heat function to work when using the thermostat. The fan as well as the compressor would not operate or even turn on.

Attached is a picture of the wiring on the thermostat.

 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:45 AM
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Thanks for the problem update, it makes sense now. From your description of the problem, it could very likely be a lack of 24VAC. You'll just have to measure the voltage from R to C (at the air handler side) to determine if that's why the system isn't working.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:52 AM
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Really appreciate the feedback. I'll get back to you in about an hour and a half when I run home at lunch and check. If 24VAC is the culprit and it's a blown fuse what would be the remedy and would this be something I could tackle myself?
 
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Old 12-06-16, 08:09 AM
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If the fuse is blown, the simplest next step is to replace the fuse and see if that solves the problem. However, fuses normally don't blow for no reason, so there's a good chance that the fuse will blow again. If it does, then you need to determine where the short circuit is. The most likely reason for a short circuit on the 24VAC line is if an animal chewed through the insulation on the control signal cable running to the outside unit. Since you apparently have a heat pump, the outside unit runs for both heating & cooling.

If the fuse is blown, turn off the power to the air handler and replace the fuse. If you can find the cable going to the outside unit, disconnect it from the air handler, paying attention to how it is wired (take a picture or draw a diagram). Turn the power back on with the thermostat OFF and see if the fuse is still good. If fuse still good, turn thermostat to Cool and see if fuse still good. If so, then reconnect cable going to outside unit and see if it blows fuse. If so, then you'll need to determine where short is in outside cable (or replace cable).

I would suggest that you purchase several fuses, not just one.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 08:24 AM
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Here's a picture of the air handler. I'm assuming that breaker is the on and off switch? Just asking because I don't remember seeing another one last night anywhere close to the unit.

Edit I'll look in the panel when I get home I would assume based on research that it's in the unit somewhere.



 

Last edited by Muley4x4; 12-06-16 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 12-06-16, 10:04 AM
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Old 12-06-16, 10:21 AM
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Old 12-06-16, 10:36 AM
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Look at the float switch cable. The red goes to R and the blue supplies to the red wire of the thermostat.

Remove the wirenut and touch the splice to R on the board. See if system works now.

If it does.... there's a problem with the float.

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Old 12-06-16, 11:13 AM
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Pete,

Just to clarify touch the entire splice? I'm back at work but will be home again in a couple of hours
 
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Old 12-06-16, 12:12 PM
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Yes. The idea of the float switch is if it's triggered it interrupts power to the stat/system.

You are basically bypassing the float switch.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 02:38 PM
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Pete, I didn't have any luck. I contacted the spliced wires to R and didn't have any luck. Any other suggestions?

I have a friend that is a licensed electrician coming by in two hours. Any things or areas he should specifically check?
 
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Old 12-06-16, 03:18 PM
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Check for 24vac between R and C at the screw terminals.
If not found....check the transformer for 24vac out.
If not found.... check for 240vac on the transformer.
If not found.... you don't have 240vac to the air handler.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:01 PM
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Pete,

Actually got power to the air handler. The breaker on the control panel was partially tripped not sure why I didn't see it. The power to the unit came back on for 10-15 minutes and the tripped the breaker again. Determined that the breaker upstairs near the unit was receiving 40-43 and the breaker the breaker in the attic was rated at 60 and the breaker on the panel was 30. Replaced the breaker on the control panel with a higher rated breaker and so far all is well. Cycled through various cycles of and and off and it took 17 minutes to reach the correct temperature.

Anything to look out for in the future. Thanks a bunch for your help and everyone that contributed to the thread. We are supposed to hit 22' tomorrow.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:38 PM
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What do you mean by it was receiving 40-43?
You cannot increase the size of a breaker past the units maximum allowable circuit ampacity or wire size.
 
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Old 12-06-16, 07:47 PM
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The unit in my attic was receiving 40-43 amps??That breaker in the attic was rated at 60 amps. I did not place this breaker there and had no knowledge of it prior to two days ago.

I've lived in my home for four years and this is the first time that I have ever had an issue with the handler. The home was built in the 80's and based on the pictures I provided I'm not sure the mfg date on the unit.

The breaker on the control panel in my garage was a 30 amp. Replaced the breaker on the control panel with a 40 amp breaker.

I did exactly what the electrician said. Is this not correct?
 
 

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