ICM282A Furnace Board Error Code - Rapid Flashing, Reverse polarity
#1
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ICM282A Furnace Board Error Code - Rapid Flashing, Reverse polarity
I replaced a Carrier 58RAV furnace board with an ICM282a board. I ran the diagnostic test and received a rapid flash that the line voltage (115 V) polarity is reversed. I do not have twinning.
The white wires are all on the neutral blades of the board. Including the BLWR (com) white wire, the L2 white wire, and the PR2 white wire from the OEM board to its own blade in the neutral square of the board.
Note Neutral wires:
The PR2 wire is to the right of the BLW connection.
The L2 connection is to the right of the Factory Neutral harness connection.
I matched all color wires step by step.
I am not sure why I am still getting this error code.
I would greatly appreciate any help.
The white wires are all on the neutral blades of the board. Including the BLWR (com) white wire, the L2 white wire, and the PR2 white wire from the OEM board to its own blade in the neutral square of the board.
Note Neutral wires:
The PR2 wire is to the right of the BLW connection.
The L2 connection is to the right of the Factory Neutral harness connection.
I matched all color wires step by step.
I am not sure why I am still getting this error code.
I would greatly appreciate any help.
#2
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Start with the easy stuff. Do you have a multimeter? Have you verified the polarity of the incoming supply? Should be 120 between black and ground, and 0 between white and ground. Also, verify the integrity of your ground connection.
#3
Like Paul mentioned..... check the ground. It's very important to the boards proper operation.
#6
Ok... first off..... in your picture it looks like you are holding the board in your hand. It needs to be mounted in its proper location. It needs to connect with the metal furnace frame.
To check for polarity..... check from the black/hot/L1 wire to the metal frame of the furnace for 120vac.
Check from white/neutral/L2 to the metal frame. There should be 0v measured here.
To check for polarity..... check from the black/hot/L1 wire to the metal frame of the furnace for 120vac.
Check from white/neutral/L2 to the metal frame. There should be 0v measured here.
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So I checked the power on/off switch and the L1 and L2 to chassis and they are wired correctly. L1 Hot at 120 VAC and L2 at 0 VAC.
I fastened the board to the chassis as requested, but the L1 wire is about 3/4 inch short. Can I drill a new hole on the chassis and move the board closer (1 inch) so the L1 connection can attach? I was thinking of rotating the board 180 degrees, but then I would still have to drill holes to accommodate the control board.
Is it possible to get wire for the L1 (hot) connection? Where could I find that type of wire for the rocker switch that is part of the Heater junction box? 16 AWG, 600V. I don't think I can just buy any wire from Home Depot. I couldn't find any like it.
I fastened the board to the chassis as requested, but the L1 wire is about 3/4 inch short. Can I drill a new hole on the chassis and move the board closer (1 inch) so the L1 connection can attach? I was thinking of rotating the board 180 degrees, but then I would still have to drill holes to accommodate the control board.
Is it possible to get wire for the L1 (hot) connection? Where could I find that type of wire for the rocker switch that is part of the Heater junction box? 16 AWG, 600V. I don't think I can just buy any wire from Home Depot. I couldn't find any like it.
#8
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You can use type THHN wire. Home depot probably won't have 16 AWG, but you can use 14 and they will sell that by the foot. You probably want stranded, not solid.
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Thank you for the advice. After many attempts to isolate the problem and trace the schematics where the issue could be, I found where the reverse polarity was occurring; At the PR1 and PR2 wires. It is odd since the incoming polarity was correct. In a last effort, I switched the wires. There was no success. And after reading several comments in Amazon, I tried switching the neutral around, no success.
I give up. It was a bad board. I should have spent the money on a business that would have accepted a return and by trying to save 30 dollars, I bought it second hand, whom I think the seller lied of the condition. Bad package, No ESD seals, worn and water logged looking instructions.
Thank you for your time, I am not giving up. I got a chance to know the board and my furnace.
Paul's saying is correct. Sinking time and money...
I give up. It was a bad board. I should have spent the money on a business that would have accepted a return and by trying to save 30 dollars, I bought it second hand, whom I think the seller lied of the condition. Bad package, No ESD seals, worn and water logged looking instructions.
Thank you for your time, I am not giving up. I got a chance to know the board and my furnace.
Paul's saying is correct. Sinking time and money...
#10
, I am not giving up. I got a chance to know the board and my furnace.
