A/C condensor: replaced capacitor- no fan


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Old 04-09-17, 10:35 AM
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A/C condensor: replaced capacitor- no fan

Model: Bryant Central Air Conditioner Model 561CJX042000AFAA
  1. A/C won't blow cold air.
  2. Fan(outdoor unit) does not turn
  3. Fan(outdoor unit) does not turn using a stick
  4. I hear the contacts when I turn on the A/C when I flip the switch to ON on the breaker(outside)
  5. Capacitor was recently installed by an A/C tech in Sep 2016
  6. Replaced the old Capacitor with a new one TODAY but Fan(outdoor) still does not turn
  7. Checked breaker(outside) and power is being supplied
  8. Breaker was replaced by an A/C tech in mid-2015
  9. Fan(indoor - blower) does blow air
  10. Air filter was changed several months ago and I checked it wasn't dirty




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I suspect Compressor maybe gone bad - how do I check before calling a tech and paying a diagnostics fee.
Should I get a brand new compressor(if that's the issue) or find a used one?
 
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Old 04-09-17, 10:53 AM
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When the A/C comes on, two things turn on in the outside unit, the compressor and the condenser fan. You stated that the condenser fan is not turning. Is the compressor running (when the thermostat calls for cooling)? If not, you could have one of several issues. The contactor could be bad, your condensate pan could be full tripping the condensate switch (if you have one), your system could be low on refrigerant causing the low pressure switch to trip, you could have had a high pressure condition causing the high pressure switch to trip, an animal could have chewed through the low voltage (24VAC) wiring running from the house to the outside unit.

If the compressor is not running, a multimeter (AC voltmeter) would be very handy in diagnosing which of the above items is the problem.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 11:13 AM
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I do have a multimeter, that's how i checked if the breaker is getting power or not.

You may right about being low on refrigerant since when I touch the copper pipes, it doesn't feel cold but we could have multiple issues here.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 11:21 AM
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In the picture..... the yellow arrow is pointing the contactor. The actual switch is circled.
Take a pencil (eraser end) or something non conductive and CAREFULLY push that piece of plastic in. Be aware the system should start up. Let us know of the compressor and/or fan comes on.

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Old 04-09-17, 11:30 AM
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Hello.

The contactor does work when the A/C is turned ON. I can hear the click noise and visually see, it sticks(goes in).

Could it be fan motor? compressor?

Even though I touched the copper pipe, it may not be cold since A/C hasn't worked in over 24 hours and we have had temperature today at 80 degree F so the pipes will likely be hot so it may or may not be the refrigerant(freon R22)
 
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Old 04-09-17, 01:53 PM
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If you can't spin the fan blades then the motor is seized. Time to replace it.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 02:36 PM
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skaggsje
If you can't spin the fan blades then the motor is seized. Time to replace it.
I can open the top cover of the A/C unit - how do I check if the fan motor is kaput?

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I see there is a number on the fan motor - S070WVFA23 but nothing comes up when I search online regarding this.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 02:44 PM
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As skaggsje suggested, does the fan motor spin easily by hand? If not (if it turns hard), then it's definitely bad. When the contactor pulls in, do you hear the compressor run? You stated that the fan doesn't run, but you never mentioned whether the compressor runs. If the compressor does run, don't run it for very long without the condenser fan running, as the compressor will overheat (fan cools it).
 
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Old 04-09-17, 02:54 PM
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it does spin easily. I mentioned it in my first post - that, I tried to turn it with a stick but it won't run but I failed to mentioned it does turn without any effort.

I barely hear the compressor so I kinda suspect it might be out but I really don't have the gauges to know for a fact that am low on Freon.

We didn't run it for too long(at-least I hope) maybe couple of hours before noticing the issue and then run for a minute or two to test when replacing capacitor etc.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 03:51 PM
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In the picture I modified for the contactor..... the power comes in at the bottom of the contactor. Did you confirm 240vac at the bottom and top of the contactor ?

If yes..... then.... it's time to call for service.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 06:34 PM
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Yes. am getting 240v between the bottom and top of the contactor.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 08:25 PM
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The two high voltage wires connected to the bottom of the contactor connect to L1 and L2. The two terminals at the top of the contactor are T1 and T2.

240 volts should always be present between L1 and L2.
When 24 volts is supplied to the coil of the contactor it should pull in. When this occurs you should be able to measure 240 volts between T1 and T2.

That contactor may have failed. I would not expect you to get 240 volts between T1 and T2 (when 24 volts is present at the coil and 240VAC is at L1 and L2) if a contactor requires replacement.

Measuring between the top and bottom of the contactor (L2 to T2) will not tell us if the contactor has failed. We would want to measure between T1 and T2 with 24VAC to the coil and the contactor pulled in.


 

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Old 04-10-17, 05:38 AM
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Thanks Houston for the Diagram - very helpful.

I measured between L1 and L2 and it's 240V always
I measured between T1 and T2 = 0v with contactor OFF.
I measured between T1 and T2 with A/C ON and the contactor sticks IN and it shows 240v.

So, I think the contactor is OK.

Is there a way to check(measure) if FAN motor is bad?
 
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Old 04-10-17, 09:15 AM
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That indicates the contactor is ok.

Since you've measured 240vac leaving the contactor..... you have a compressor problem and fan problem. Pretty rare for both to go bad at the same time but it appears the wires are all connected.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 10:03 AM
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Since you've measured 240vac leaving the contactor..... you have a compressor problem and fan problem. Pretty rare for both to go bad at the same time but it appears the wires are all connected.
I hope NOT.

How do I diagnose the Fan or Compressor problem?

The Condenser Fan Motor part # HC39GE237A. I cannot read the Compressor label without taking the top off.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 10:50 AM
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The fan motor can be checked for continuity.
You would check from black wire to yellow wire and black wire to red wire.
Both measurements need to show resistance.
Black is common.
Yellow is run.
Red is start.

The compressor has a plug in the side of it. The picture is below. There are three pins that connect the plug to the compressor.

You can check the wires from the compressor first before messing with the plug.
Check from black wire to yellow wire and from black wire to blue wire.
Both measurements needs to show resistance.
Black is common.
Yellow is run.
Blue is start.

You need to be very careful working around the compressor.
Wear safety glasses.
You can remove the spring cover over the plug and then remove the plug. You could find something burned under the plug or one of the pins could be burned off.

Removing the plug could cause the refrigerant to leak out which is why the glasses should be worn.

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Old 04-10-17, 12:18 PM
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For Fan motor:

Measured Brown to Black = .02 ohms
Measured Yellow to Black = .06 ohms
Measured Brown to Yellow = .08 ohms

So looks like Fan is OK but not sure why its not turning unless these ohms are too low.

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At this point, i think i need to let a tech handle this unless i can do more diagnostics on my own.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 01:32 PM
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It would appear you have your meter set to a K ohms scale.
200 , 600, 800 (or 20, 60, 80) would be more correct.
.02, .06, .08 would be almost a dead short.

Those resistances are almost right. Two of them are reversed but the values are correct.

Therefore..... your fan should be running. If it wasn't running than it should be humming.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 02:36 PM
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After everything, I cleaned the contactor and turned ON the A/C - viola it started working.

The contractor had some small amount of debris, looked like a fly which probably got squished when the contactor made contact.

Wow - it's been one hell of a learning experience - thanks to everyone who contributed.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 04:19 PM
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If there was something in the contactor then you should not have gotten 240v on the T side of the contactor.
 
 

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