Payne HVAC heats but doesn't cool


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Old 12-17-17, 03:03 PM
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Payne HVAC heats but doesn't cool

I have a Payne HVAC model# PA3ZNB036000ABTP The heat is working on it but the cooling is not. The unit turns on and the fan is running but no air is coming through the vents when i have it on cool yet the heat works. What could be wrong?
 

Last edited by Lisa64; 12-17-17 at 03:30 PM. Reason: number missing
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Old 12-17-17, 03:12 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

That model number appears to be incorrect as that model is not shown.

Since you're in Florida you most lilely have a heat pump.
Do you have a gas furnace or an electric furnace for reheat ?

You are describing an incorrectly programmed thermostat problem.
Has it been changed recently ?
 
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Old 12-17-17, 03:29 PM
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It is electric heat.No the thermostat has not been replaced. Sorry model# pa3znb036000abtp
 
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Old 12-17-17, 03:34 PM
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Ok.... I see that as a packaged unit where everything is outside.


Does the inside blower run when the thermostat is set to FAN ON mode ?
 
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Old 12-17-17, 03:47 PM
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Yes a packaged unit, Thank you so much.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 03:53 PM
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I just tried that again and nothing coming through the vents even though I hear the unit running.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 04:15 PM
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http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/100...SS-PA3Z-02.pdf

It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/100...SS-PA3Z-02.pdf

It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
How would I go about doing that?
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:03 PM
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Houston.... I'm a little confused.
I see the common to the motor but I only see a single tap on speed 1.
L1 and L2 are live 240v.
How are the speeds selected ?

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Old 12-17-17, 06:10 PM
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Okay I was thinking this was a 5 ton not a 3 ton. It looks like a single low voltage speed tap.

So the measurement should be between Com and Hi with a cooling demand present.

Thanks for catching that PJ.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:17 PM
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I forgot to add the picture. So that means the motor is ok and it's a logic or switching problem on the board or a loss of the G signal from the stat.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:18 PM
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I agree, the stat, the stat wire or the board.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:23 PM
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So our recommendation to the OP is to remove the thermostat from the base and using a small piece of jumper wire..... touch the jumper to R and G only. The R should be red and the G should be green.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
So our recommendation to the OP is to remove the thermostat from the base and using a small piece of jumper wire..... touch the jumper to R and G only. The R should be red and the G should be green.
Okay so take the thermostat in the house off the base, sorry I'm new to this so this may sound stupid but what is a jumper wire? Also this is an old thermostat if that matters.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 06:42 PM
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There is low voltage at the thermostat so no danger of getting electrocuted. Most thermostats snap off a wall mounted plate exposing the wiring connections. The jumper can be any piece of scrap wire.... even a paper clip will work.
 
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Old 12-17-17, 07:07 PM
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I usually just move the green wire from the G terminal and connect it to the R terminal along with the red wire already there.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 05:57 AM
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Okay, I see the G terminal, RC terminal and RH terminal. So if I remove the green do I connect it to the RC or RH terminal? Then what?
 

Last edited by Lisa64; 12-18-17 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 12-18-17, 08:34 AM
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R is power and G is fan control.
The blower should run when you do this test.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
R is power and G is fan control.
The blower should run when you do this test.
Okay I did that. Nothing is happening. Do I have to turn anything on?
 
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Old 12-18-17, 10:13 AM
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No....you don't have to turn anything on. You've eliminated a thermostat problem.

I would perform the same test outside at the unit. Turn power off before opening wiring access cover. Locate the control board area where the thermostat connects. You can temporarily remove the Red and Green. place a jumper from R to G, re-power unit and see if the fan works now. If it doesn't... the fan control board is defective.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 10:37 AM
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It looks like that package unit has pigtails.
I usually just put unit green and red into the same wire nuts outside.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
It looks like that package unit has pigtails.
I usually just put unit green and red into the same wire nuts outside.
Which panel would I open to access that outside?
 
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Old 12-18-17, 01:55 PM
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Look for where the main power enters the unit. The brown thermostat cable should enter thru a rubber grommet in that same area. Pull the disconnect or turn off power to the unit while removing the access cover. Once you locate the thermostat connections...... make the connection and then turn the power back on.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
Look for where the main power enters the unit. The brown thermostat cable should enter thru a rubber grommet in that same area. Pull the disconnect or turn off power to the unit while removing the access cover. Once you locate the thermostat connections...... make the connection and then turn the power back on.
Okay, I will do that tomorrow. Is it easy to tell which are the thermostat wires? It will have the same G & R connections right?
 
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Old 12-18-17, 02:24 PM
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Yes.... you should see the brown cable with the same colors that appear at the thermostat. You may find an actual board with screws or just colored wire tails. You want to locate the red and green wires from that brown thermostat cable.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
Yes.... you should see the brown cable with the same colors that appear at the thermostat. You may find an actual board with screws or just colored wire tails. You want to locate the red and green wires from that brown thermostat cable.
Okay. Thank you so much. Will let you know what happens. If it runs what does that mean?
 
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Old 12-18-17, 02:29 PM
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If the blower runs.... the wiring has a problem. (open green)
If the blower doesn't run.... it would appear that the control board is bad.,
 
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Old 12-18-17, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
If the blower runs.... the wiring has a problem. (open green)
If the blower doesn't run.... it would appear that the control board is bad.,
Which would be the least expensive to fix? lol
 
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Old 12-18-17, 04:23 PM
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A wiring problem could be a tough replacement depending on where it's bad. A typical place where the wire could go bad is outside between the house and the unit. Animals, weedwackers and other yard prowlers can damage it. That is usually a visible issue.

The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
 
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Old 12-18-17, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
A wiring problem could be a tough replacement depending on where it's bad. A typical place where the wire could go bad is outside between the house and the unit. Animals, weedwackers and other yard prowlers can damage it. That is usually a visible issue.

The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
Okay, thank you so much. I appreciate all your help. When I do it I will get the number.
 
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Old 12-22-17, 01:59 PM
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Well, they thought it was the blower motor first but it's a bad thermostat. I want to thank you guys for all your help.
 
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Old 12-22-17, 05:12 PM
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If it turned out to be a bad thermostat then when you tried the test back in posts 13-19..... something wasn't done correctly. That test should have turned the blower on.... which would have indicated a defective thermostat.
 
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Old 12-23-17, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
If it turned out to be a bad thermostat then when you tried the test back in posts 13-19..... something wasn't done correctly. That test should have turned the blower on.... which would have indicated a defective thermostat.
I did connect the Green wire from the G terminal to the R wire terminal and nothing happened. Like I said, I'm new to this so I could have done it wrong.
 
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Old 12-23-17, 12:20 PM
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Was the Red wire still connected to the R terminal during this test?
 
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Old 12-24-17, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
Was the Red wire still connected to the R terminal during this test?
Yes, the red wire was still connected to the R terminal.
 
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Old 12-24-17, 05:20 PM
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One of life's little mysteries. Good that everything is ok now. Name:  xmas_smile.gif
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Old 12-25-17, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax
One of life's little mysteries. Good that everything is ok now. Attachment 88638
Yes, exactly. Merry Christmas everyone!
 
 

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