Payne HVAC heats but doesn't cool
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Payne HVAC heats but doesn't cool
I have a Payne HVAC model# PA3ZNB036000ABTP The heat is working on it but the cooling is not. The unit turns on and the fan is running but no air is coming through the vents when i have it on cool yet the heat works. What could be wrong?
Last edited by Lisa64; 12-17-17 at 03:30 PM. Reason: number missing
#2
Welcome to the forums.
That model number appears to be incorrect as that model is not shown.
Since you're in Florida you most lilely have a heat pump.
Do you have a gas furnace or an electric furnace for reheat ?
You are describing an incorrectly programmed thermostat problem.
Has it been changed recently ?
That model number appears to be incorrect as that model is not shown.
Since you're in Florida you most lilely have a heat pump.
Do you have a gas furnace or an electric furnace for reheat ?
You are describing an incorrectly programmed thermostat problem.
Has it been changed recently ?
#4
Ok.... I see that as a packaged unit where everything is outside.
Does the inside blower run when the thermostat is set to FAN ON mode ?
Does the inside blower run when the thermostat is set to FAN ON mode ?
#7
http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/100...SS-PA3Z-02.pdf
It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
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http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/100...SS-PA3Z-02.pdf
It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
It looks like you have an ECM X13 indoor fan motor. I would measure for 24 volts AC to the motor between Lo and Comm and Hi and Com when a fan demand is present.
#9
Houston.... I'm a little confused.
I see the common to the motor but I only see a single tap on speed 1.
L1 and L2 are live 240v.
How are the speeds selected ?
I see the common to the motor but I only see a single tap on speed 1.
L1 and L2 are live 240v.
How are the speeds selected ?
#10
Okay I was thinking this was a 5 ton not a 3 ton. It looks like a single low voltage speed tap.
So the measurement should be between Com and Hi with a cooling demand present.
Thanks for catching that PJ.
So the measurement should be between Com and Hi with a cooling demand present.
Thanks for catching that PJ.
#11
I forgot to add the picture. So that means the motor is ok and it's a logic or switching problem on the board or a loss of the G signal from the stat.
#13
So our recommendation to the OP is to remove the thermostat from the base and using a small piece of jumper wire..... touch the jumper to R and G only. The R should be red and the G should be green.
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Okay so take the thermostat in the house off the base, sorry I'm new to this so this may sound stupid but what is a jumper wire? Also this is an old thermostat if that matters.
#15
There is low voltage at the thermostat so no danger of getting electrocuted. Most thermostats snap off a wall mounted plate exposing the wiring connections. The jumper can be any piece of scrap wire.... even a paper clip will work.
#16
I usually just move the green wire from the G terminal and connect it to the R terminal along with the red wire already there.
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Okay, I see the G terminal, RC terminal and RH terminal. So if I remove the green do I connect it to the RC or RH terminal? Then what?
Last edited by Lisa64; 12-18-17 at 08:43 AM.
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Okay I did that. Nothing is happening. Do I have to turn anything on?
#20
No....you don't have to turn anything on. You've eliminated a thermostat problem.
I would perform the same test outside at the unit. Turn power off before opening wiring access cover. Locate the control board area where the thermostat connects. You can temporarily remove the Red and Green. place a jumper from R to G, re-power unit and see if the fan works now. If it doesn't... the fan control board is defective.
I would perform the same test outside at the unit. Turn power off before opening wiring access cover. Locate the control board area where the thermostat connects. You can temporarily remove the Red and Green. place a jumper from R to G, re-power unit and see if the fan works now. If it doesn't... the fan control board is defective.
#21
It looks like that package unit has pigtails.
I usually just put unit green and red into the same wire nuts outside.
I usually just put unit green and red into the same wire nuts outside.
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Which panel would I open to access that outside?
#23
Look for where the main power enters the unit. The brown thermostat cable should enter thru a rubber grommet in that same area. Pull the disconnect or turn off power to the unit while removing the access cover. Once you locate the thermostat connections...... make the connection and then turn the power back on.
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Look for where the main power enters the unit. The brown thermostat cable should enter thru a rubber grommet in that same area. Pull the disconnect or turn off power to the unit while removing the access cover. Once you locate the thermostat connections...... make the connection and then turn the power back on.
#25
Yes.... you should see the brown cable with the same colors that appear at the thermostat. You may find an actual board with screws or just colored wire tails. You want to locate the red and green wires from that brown thermostat cable.
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Okay. Thank you so much. Will let you know what happens. If it runs what does that mean?
#27
If the blower runs.... the wiring has a problem. (open green)
If the blower doesn't run.... it would appear that the control board is bad.,
If the blower doesn't run.... it would appear that the control board is bad.,
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Which would be the least expensive to fix? lol
#29
A wiring problem could be a tough replacement depending on where it's bad. A typical place where the wire could go bad is outside between the house and the unit. Animals, weedwackers and other yard prowlers can damage it. That is usually a visible issue.
The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
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A wiring problem could be a tough replacement depending on where it's bad. A typical place where the wire could go bad is outside between the house and the unit. Animals, weedwackers and other yard prowlers can damage it. That is usually a visible issue.
The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
The board, although fairly easy to replace, may be expensive. I'd need the number off your board to look it up.
#32
If it turned out to be a bad thermostat then when you tried the test back in posts 13-19..... something wasn't done correctly. That test should have turned the blower on.... which would have indicated a defective thermostat.
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I did connect the Green wire from the G terminal to the R wire terminal and nothing happened. Like I said, I'm new to this so I could have done it wrong.