Compressor strangeness

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  #41  
Old 03-08-18, 12:47 PM
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It's acting up again. Hmmph!

I got a friend to put a pic up so I don't have to deal with photobucket. Again, just nudging any of the top 4 wires on the controller board fires it up. Weird that it worked for 3 full days and then flaked out again 2 times.

 
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  #42  
Old 03-08-18, 04:57 PM
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It sounds like you may have a cracked solder connection on the board.

I have removed the board and inspected the back with a magnifying glass to find these bad solder connections in the past.

It would be better if it is only a loose wire connection ...
 
  #43  
Old 03-09-18, 01:11 PM
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Do you mean cracks on traces or in the solder? Can it be reflowed in that case?

I'd just buy a new circuit board if I could find it, but it's some sort of OEM part so I'll have to pay a lot for it. Is there a 3rd party one that's compatible?

It looks like a single layer board so it's easy to work with.
 
  #44  
Old 03-09-18, 02:50 PM
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When I used to do TV service work, it wasn't uncommon to run into an intermittent like this (tap on board and symptom would come/go). It's almost always a bad solder joint rather than a cracked trace. Rather than try to look for a crack in the solder (often very difficult to see), I would try to narrow it down to a general location and just resolder all the joints in that area. You won't be able to isolate which portion of the board it is, so (if you're handy with a soldering iron) just resolder all of the joints on the board. The most likely problem areas are connectors where they're soldered into the board. The stress caused by the weight of the wire pulling on the board make it a likely problem area.
 
  #45  
Old 03-10-18, 08:43 AM
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https://www.doityourself.com/forum/a...ard-solder.jpg

A picture of the backside can make it easier to see the connections. I would look at the reverse side of the area that you suspect.
 
  #46  
Old 03-18-18, 05:50 AM
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I looked at it when I replaced the connector and it looked pretty solid. Its been working for a week, so I haven't been motivated to shut it down and pull the board out. Although I should do it before it gets really not down here next month.

I'd just replace the board if I could find one.
 
  #47  
Old 03-18-18, 02:30 PM
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If you pull the board out.... take a picture as large as you can of the back and send it to me. I'll host/post it for you. I PM'ed you my email address.
 
  #48  
Old 03-23-18, 02:33 PM
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What do the 2 brown wires (OS1 OS2) do?
 
  #49  
Old 03-23-18, 07:14 PM
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http://www.trane.com/getyourliteratu...jobNbr=D260000

Is the diagram on page 115 your unit?
 
  #50  
Old 03-24-18, 06:24 AM
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Post #21 has my full model number
 
  #51  
Old 04-20-18, 02:07 PM
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Rear of Board

The thing has been working 90% of the time and I know how to kick is, so I haven't been motivated to take out the board to re-solder it. The other day I found someone selling a replacement board for $75 so I bought it and replaced the board. The new board works fine so far and it's not making the clicking or sparks that the old board was making. I'm posting a photo of the board as someone requested.

 
  #52  
Old 04-27-18, 05:34 PM
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Nobody is answering so I'll just close this out by saying the new board fixed the problem. For $75 it's not really worth my time to try to figure out what was wrong with the board.
 
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