Installing new mini split- need advice
#1
Installing new mini split- need advice
Hey gang! Finally going to install a mini split a/c system in this old house. I had a contractor come out and quoted a 24k btu unit with 12k & 15k indoor units... Obviously that was way out of budget and planning to buy and install myself. I am an electrician with experience in most things mechanical. I have my gas certificate but don't do AC work very often (got certified at work in order to recharge our buildings AC units. )
I'm looking at blue ridge or LG, and going to go with ceiling cassettes vs wall units.
First questions center around start up. I understand the compressor comes pre-charged with 410a. Specs say enough for 170' of line set, I should be at about 100' total for both units.
I'm going to buy an inexpensive vacuum pump to evacuate the system.
Does anyone with more experience have any tips or guidance for me? Let's say I've connected all my lines and such... Where/how is the vac pump then attached? Do I also need to pressure test using nitrogen? After I do all that I assume I will open a valve on the compressor to release the 410a. Will I need to add or remove any 410a?
I have an older recovery machine and possibly gauges (if I can find them)... Can that be used to pull a vacuum? Can it be used at all with a 410a system?
Sorry if I sound ignorant, in just trying to get my ducks in a row before pulling the trigger.
Thank you!
I'm looking at blue ridge or LG, and going to go with ceiling cassettes vs wall units.
First questions center around start up. I understand the compressor comes pre-charged with 410a. Specs say enough for 170' of line set, I should be at about 100' total for both units.
I'm going to buy an inexpensive vacuum pump to evacuate the system.
Does anyone with more experience have any tips or guidance for me? Let's say I've connected all my lines and such... Where/how is the vac pump then attached? Do I also need to pressure test using nitrogen? After I do all that I assume I will open a valve on the compressor to release the 410a. Will I need to add or remove any 410a?
I have an older recovery machine and possibly gauges (if I can find them)... Can that be used to pull a vacuum? Can it be used at all with a 410a system?
Sorry if I sound ignorant, in just trying to get my ducks in a row before pulling the trigger.
Thank you!
#2
Member
Nitrogen and nitrogen regulator to pressurize to 500-600 PSI. Vacuum pump and micron gauge. Flair block and tubing cutter. The fitting on the unit will likely be 5/16” so an adaptor as well.
#4
Although I would consider installing a split unit a DIY project..... be sure to check out the warranty if the unit is self installed.
Since charging a home air conditioner must be performed by an HVAC technician with a refrigerant license.... the DIY administration does not allow discussions on charging in the open forums.
Sorry....
doityourself/air-conditioning-cooling-systems-charging-your-A/C
Since charging a home air conditioner must be performed by an HVAC technician with a refrigerant license.... the DIY administration does not allow discussions on charging in the open forums.
Sorry....
doityourself/air-conditioning-cooling-systems-charging-your-A/C
#5
Member
You’ll likely have $500 or so tied up in tools for the project.
And I wouldn’t use some old leaky gauge manifold either.
And I wouldn’t use some old leaky gauge manifold either.
#6
Sure no problem, I understand the forum bring a diy place. How much would you expect to pay a competent contractor to do the start up for me, assuming I did the physical install myself?
#7
Member
Depends on who you get.
There’s plenty of guys on Craigslist that would probably hack through it for $100 cash. And you’d never hear from them again even if you had a problem and attempted to contact them.
With nitro pressure test, evacuation, possible refrigerant if needed, I’d say you’ll be out $400-$600 for startup and checkout.
There’s plenty of guys on Craigslist that would probably hack through it for $100 cash. And you’d never hear from them again even if you had a problem and attempted to contact them.
With nitro pressure test, evacuation, possible refrigerant if needed, I’d say you’ll be out $400-$600 for startup and checkout.
#8
That's a little more than I'd want to spend.. but illcall around a few places and see what they say. Most likely ill end up having someone do it because as was mentioned ill spend that much in equipment anyway.
The next questions have more to do with system design. The pro came and recommended 24k btu mitMitsubi unit paired with a 12 and a 15k indoor wall units. My house is roughly 900 SQ feet, basically devided in two halves. Kitchen, bathroom bed room in one half.... Living / dining room and two bedrooms in the other half.
I'd rather use ceiling cassettes because they will 'fit' better in the rooms, and because the lines will run thru the attic and come down outside in a hidden area vs wall unit lines coming down the outside walls like you see on other houses/ buildings.
Best guess.... Is 24k (20-21 seer) the right size? Paired with 12&18 k ceiling cassettes (not available in 15k). BTW, I'm in a Chicago area suburb, so figure Midwest summers.
The next questions have more to do with system design. The pro came and recommended 24k btu mitMitsubi unit paired with a 12 and a 15k indoor wall units. My house is roughly 900 SQ feet, basically devided in two halves. Kitchen, bathroom bed room in one half.... Living / dining room and two bedrooms in the other half.
I'd rather use ceiling cassettes because they will 'fit' better in the rooms, and because the lines will run thru the attic and come down outside in a hidden area vs wall unit lines coming down the outside walls like you see on other houses/ buildings.
Best guess.... Is 24k (20-21 seer) the right size? Paired with 12&18 k ceiling cassettes (not available in 15k). BTW, I'm in a Chicago area suburb, so figure Midwest summers.
#9
Member
Need a load calculation to determine proper size. Can’t suggest proper equipment sizing based solely on square footage.
#10
The guy that came out from one of the biggest outfits around just did it by sq'. I know a few websites I've visited looking at equipment have had calculators that asked about insulation, windows, exposed walls, etc in order to help determine proper size.
What exactly is involved in a proper load calculation?
What exactly is involved in a proper load calculation?
#11
Member
#12
Never heard of Blue ridge and Id never recommend LG anything to anyone. We have way to many issues. Fujitsu, Mitsubishi would be my go to. Are you looking at these to heat? because you will freeze with you are wanting any LG to heat your home in a Chicago winter.
#13
Blue ridge seems to be a company based in Chicago that rebrands other companies over run equipment, so you don't know which you'll get. That's my take...
What problems have you encountered with LG equipment? I'm not counting on this setup providing primary heat as the house has hot water heat. But I am looking forward to taking advantage of the heating feature during the spring and fall.
The HVAC contractor that recently installed a Fujitsu unit in a new addition at work is here today doing startup. I talked to him about sizing and asked if he could come and do start up. His estimate is 200-250.
He said there will be no need to remove any 410a. Unit pre-charged for 170', only going to use about 100'. Does that sound correct?
What problems have you encountered with LG equipment? I'm not counting on this setup providing primary heat as the house has hot water heat. But I am looking forward to taking advantage of the heating feature during the spring and fall.
The HVAC contractor that recently installed a Fujitsu unit in a new addition at work is here today doing startup. I talked to him about sizing and asked if he could come and do start up. His estimate is 200-250.
He said there will be no need to remove any 410a. Unit pre-charged for 170', only going to use about 100'. Does that sound correct?
#14
Moving forward... I am glad to have the start up hurdle covered.
Back to equipment selection. I want to use ceiling cassettes, but the HVAC guy told me those are intended more so for drop ceiling grids in commercial spaces like a conference room or store front. The install guide says they are hung from threaded rod and although it does not specifically mention a drop ceiling it does seem like that would be the ideal situation.
Has anyone used a ceiling cassette in a regular frame ceiling (open attic above)? Any insight or thoughts?
One concern of mine would be ceiling thickness. For example the kitchen area is about 3"+ thick what with a couple layers, ceiling tiles, etc. I think this may pose a mounting and/or maintenance problem.
So, if cassettes are out we are looking at wall units. Ideal locations in each space has 'challenges'.
The kitchen area above the window is tight. Ill have to trim back the window casing some and the unit will be only 2" from the ceiling. Will this be too close for proper operation? (This is the locating quoted by the pro company).
The living room area has a good spot, but it's a boxed in space... Meaning that when I punch thru with my drain etc I will be in a blind area and need to turn and run a couple feet before emerging outside. No big deal with the line set and power cord... But the drain is concerning.
In order to get it right, I may have to open up that box area... Uggg.. more drywall work.
Ok, nuff rambling for now.... Wife says I'm over thinking this (I think she's under thinking it, lol)
Back to equipment selection. I want to use ceiling cassettes, but the HVAC guy told me those are intended more so for drop ceiling grids in commercial spaces like a conference room or store front. The install guide says they are hung from threaded rod and although it does not specifically mention a drop ceiling it does seem like that would be the ideal situation.
Has anyone used a ceiling cassette in a regular frame ceiling (open attic above)? Any insight or thoughts?
One concern of mine would be ceiling thickness. For example the kitchen area is about 3"+ thick what with a couple layers, ceiling tiles, etc. I think this may pose a mounting and/or maintenance problem.
So, if cassettes are out we are looking at wall units. Ideal locations in each space has 'challenges'.
The kitchen area above the window is tight. Ill have to trim back the window casing some and the unit will be only 2" from the ceiling. Will this be too close for proper operation? (This is the locating quoted by the pro company).
The living room area has a good spot, but it's a boxed in space... Meaning that when I punch thru with my drain etc I will be in a blind area and need to turn and run a couple feet before emerging outside. No big deal with the line set and power cord... But the drain is concerning.
In order to get it right, I may have to open up that box area... Uggg.. more drywall work.
Ok, nuff rambling for now.... Wife says I'm over thinking this (I think she's under thinking it, lol)
#15
Member
The cassette units aren’t intended for a really thick ceiling. And you’ll have to put access doors all the way around the unit for maintenance purposes.
I have seen them in a drywall ceiling.
I have seen them in a drywall ceiling.
#16
Member
Ill have to trim back the window casing some and the unit will be only 2" from the ceiling.
Running the line set and drain piping through the closet was no big deal. You should be able to run your drain through the dead space without having to rip out drywall. Just drill holes on each end and stick the pipe through (pitched, of course.)
#17
Another contractor came by today. Both companies were sent by Mitsubishi after I did an online request. This one is also a big company, also Mitsubishi diamond dealer. He sized down a bit, which I feel is correct, and spent more time talking to us about the system. He gave me a quote for the same 24k condenser, but smaller 9 & 12 k indoor units (vs 12&15). $6100 installed including condensate pumps required to put them in my desired locations and run piping up thru attic (other guy was going to squeeze them in on outside walls for easier install.). Mitsubishi has $500 instant rebate and utility company(comed) has $400 rebate, so should end up at $5200 said and done.
We will most likely go this route. So much for doin' it myself!
We will most likely go this route. So much for doin' it myself!
#18
BTW- anybody know offhand how much space is required to the side of the units? One of my desired locations has a wall on either side... If it can't fit here, ill have to use a secondary location.
#19
Room to the sides is not usually required for the operation of the unit but it may be a little tougher to service.
#20
Member
so should end up at $5200 said and done.
I would be concerned about possible noise if the pumps are to be located in or near the occupied space. The mini units are extremely quiet and having a pump come on intermittently may be disturbing.