Looking for specs on thermostatic switches

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Old 05-01-18, 11:51 PM
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Looking for specs on thermostatic switches

Hello,

I have an old ice machine that needs a couple of parts. I need two thermostatic switches. I've been googling the numbers but I'm not coming up with much. One is the bin switch. It has the numbers 860-800158b-00. Also A30-2260-000, and 5930-01-177-8951. Can anyone tell me what switch to replace this with or what the temperature range of it is so that I can find a suitable replacement?

Next and the most important is the switch that detects ice on the evaporator. It activates the reversing valve so that it can drop the ice. It is number 860-280373b-00, also 5930-00-802-8470, and A22-2217-000. Can anyone recommend a suitable replacement for this one as well?

Thank you in advance!
 
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Old 05-02-18, 03:37 AM
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What is the make and model of the ice machine?
The bin control can be had as a universal replacement but the harvest control settings are pretty model specific.

I'm traveling and don't have access to the info you need but can look it up when I return home if you've not had any luck.

BTW the defrost solenoid on an ice machine is called just that.
It doesn't reverse the flow.
It is tee'd into the hot gas line at the compressor and allows the flow of hot gas to bypass the expansion device and enter the evaporator coil to heat up the evaporator to then release the ice cubes.
 

Last edited by GregH; 05-02-18 at 03:56 AM.
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Old 05-02-18, 10:14 AM
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Thanks Greg, it's an old Crystal Tips model 800-CAE-261. Thanks for the info on how it warms the evaps. The more I know about the machine, the easier it will be for me to keep it going. The bin switch capillary tube got damaged when the guy I got it from slid the head unit into the back of my truck. The harvest switch only worked when I tapped on it, so I popped the cover off to clean the contact points and a coupe of little parts fell out and I don't see where they came from to put them back... might have been the problem the whole time.
 
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Old 05-02-18, 01:58 PM
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I'm looking into too. Seems to be an obscure model and fairly old.

The parts you had listed where available from Rancor but are now listed as obsolete.
So....we'll keep checking.
 
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Old 05-02-18, 04:22 PM
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I think I've found modern equivalents to these parts. I'll post the new Ranco numbers later if they work so that this thread might be useful in the future to someone in my situation. I actually found them at a local HVAC supply house. They didn't want to help me really but I looked through their parts and found what looked right and had them pull up numbers on their computer and technical details until I determined they were compatible.
 
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Old 05-02-18, 06:57 PM
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Definitely post what you find because I have cross referencing catalogs here.
 
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Old 05-02-18, 09:36 PM
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Okay, the first switch I mentioned (bin switch with capillary tube) #860-800158B-00 or 5930-01-177-8951 or A30-2260-000 is now replaced by Ranco switch number A30-2210, direct replacement. The temperature range on this one is 30F to 43F. 48" capillary tube.

The second switch (defrost switch with capillary tube) number 860-280373B-00 or 5930-00-802-8470, or A22-2217-000 is now replaced by Ranco switch number A22-1129, direct replacement. The temperature range on this one is 35F to 51F. 48" capillary tube.

Hope this helps someone in the future. There probably aren't that many of these machines still out there running, but mine is now.
 
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Old 05-03-18, 06:39 AM
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The universal thermostats should work for you but you may have to put some effort into setting them properly.
The original thermostats are made for the specific cut in/out temperature and the probe mounting location that each model of machine required.
The adjustment of the thermostat setting and probe location of the bin thermostat may take some experimenting to get it to work right.
The same applies to the setting of the harvest thermostat.
 
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Old 05-04-18, 12:50 AM
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Yeah, so far I set the dials at the same settings as the switches they replaced and they are working fine. The only thing now is sometimes the compressor won't come on when I turn the power on. I have to let it cool off and try again. I guess now it's time to replace the capacitors. It has both start and run caps, I guess I'll change both.
 
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Old 05-04-18, 04:03 AM
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If air cooled make sure the condenser is clean, that the fan is working and the blade is correct and turning in the right direction, or if water cooled the discharge water should be 100 degF.
Also, a clue that the refrigerant charge is correct is that the ice cubes will form evenly on the entire ice making surface.

You are fortunate to get those controls.
Normally Ranco does not offer a cross reference when an OEM part is current and in production.
 
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Old 05-04-18, 10:49 PM
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Thanks. The new caps fixed the no-start problem. It is air cooled, I need to clean the condenser and the entire machine. The fans do work, they blow into the condenser from the inside out. Looks like that's how it has run for some time, since the condenser is dirtiest on the fan side. Is that the correct way for them to turn? So far, ice is forming evenly on all of the evaporator plates. It has 5 and it forms ice on both sides of each.
 
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Old 05-05-18, 09:56 AM
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since the condenser is dirtiest on the fan side. Is that the correct way for them to turn?
Not likely they'd be spinning backwards. Since you are getting ice it would appear they are cooling the condenser correctly.
 
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Old 05-06-18, 07:04 PM
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Occasionally a fan motor or blade gets replaced with the wrong part.
An axial fan blade for refrigeration is always cupped.
The direction it should turn is the same as a cupped hand would tread water to swim.
The direction of the motor should allow the fan blade to push or pull the air like a cupped hand treads water.
If the motor spins in a direction that would have it move air against the side that is not cupped, the motor or blade is wrong which could result in up to less than half the airflow.

This small point could drive people nuts when they try to solve an overheating problem.
After all these years I still look at my hand when checking this!
 
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Old 05-07-18, 11:29 PM
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It's working well now, although some water is leaking out from the insulation around the head unit somehow. Just a bit and it's been doing it in the past judging by the rust stains down the side. I haven't figured out where that's coming from yet. I've run some descaler solution through it and cleaned it all up and it's making ice like a madman, dropping maybe 20 lbs or so every 15 minutes. I sprayed the condenser out without using any cleaner just to flush out the loose stuff. It wasn't very dirty. I think we can mark this one a success, thanks!
 
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