I have a Goodman CPLE24-1C unit. The air handler is blowing, but the outside condenser won't come on. I can push the contactor bar and the fan motor comes on. I have 24v coming in to the contactor from inside and on both sides of the contactor, 240v in to the contactor on the bottom and 240v when I close the switch. I have the identical unit for the downstairs as well. I have checked/changed the capacitors and contactors between the units and that doesn't change anything. The good unit operates fine with the bad units parts. I pulled the D2 wire from the defrost board and hooked it into the common (left) side of the contactor, but the fan won't come on. My questions are: 1) if the contactor is getting voltage in, what else is there to keep it from energizing? 2) could a reversing valve stuck keep the system from starting? 3) low charge (it's a R22 unit) be a cause? 4) where to go from here? Thank you very much for any help.

 

Welcome to the forums.

You must check for 24vac across the contactor coil..... not from each terminal to ground.

If you don't have the 24vac across the coil.... check the Y and C lines coming from inside.
You need to check as it enters the unit. If your system is low on refrigerant the low pressure switch will keep the voltage from getting to the contactor.

 

Thank you. Across the contactor I don't have any voltage. Checking the Y and C wires shows 64v.

 

The lack of voltage on the coil is the result, now you must track down the cause. Changing parts will not fix the issue, and is a waist of time and energy. Let your meter lead you to the problem.
Is there a low pressure control on this unit? Is there a call for cooling on the thermostat wire connection before the defrost board?
Which Y and C wires are you talking about? 64 V isn’t right for anything.

 

My fault on the reading.
Measuring the voltage as it comes into the unit, Y and C show 27v. There is a low pressure switch inside the unit. I was changing parts hoping it'd be a quick fix and I didn't have my meter with me. We have a 10 month old baby and I was trying to get it back up and running asap. Thank you for the help

 

May be the defrost control then. Or a low pressure issue.

 

Is it possible then to jumper the low pressure switch to rule it out before going after the defrost control?

 

There is no need to jump, bypass, change or replace anything. You have a meter. See if the switch measures open or closed. If it’s open the system must be checked with a manifold set.

 

You are absolutely right. I get so wound up I forget to utilize the meter as much as possible. I checked and it shows 1v on the low pressure switch, so it's open, correct? I'll put gauges on it tomorrow. I really appreciate the help on this

 

Measuring across it means it’s closed at 0V. 24V means it’s open.

 

Next day I was finally able to get my gauges on the unit. It was empty. Nitrogen pressure check revealed coil leaking in air handler. Ordered/replaced. Vacuumed unit down and charged. Everything is working perfect. Thank you all for your help.