Broken On/Off Button On Sunpentown A/C
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Broken On/Off Button On Sunpentown A/C
I have a portable Sunpentown air conditioner Model No. SF-606R. It's a great little unit and worked fine for several years until the on/off button developed a crack and no longer would turn on the machine. I'd love to be able to fix it instead of throwing it out. It's over $100 machine so would love to get it running again. I know nothing about doing this type of repair but was hoping maybe someone could make a suggestion, if it's a simple fix.
Attached are some photos of the top portion of the machine with the buttons, and I also took the top off to see what was underneath/inside, but I have no idea if there's anything there that relates to the on/off button, or that I could fix myself.
Anyway, maybe some of you could take a look at the pics and give me some advice.
Or if any of you have worked on a similar a/c portable machine like this one. Thanks so much! It's probably a simple fix, I hate to throw the whole unit out for something simple.
Attached are some photos of the top portion of the machine with the buttons, and I also took the top off to see what was underneath/inside, but I have no idea if there's anything there that relates to the on/off button, or that I could fix myself.
Anyway, maybe some of you could take a look at the pics and give me some advice.
Or if any of you have worked on a similar a/c portable machine like this one. Thanks so much! It's probably a simple fix, I hate to throw the whole unit out for something simple.
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Yes, it can b e fixed but whether or not YOU can fix it depends upon your skill in soldering components to a printed circuit board.
In the fourth picture look at the right side and you will see a little square piece with a round button and the words on/off on the circuit board. This is the switch you need to replace.
In the fourth picture look at the right side and you will see a little square piece with a round button and the words on/off on the circuit board. This is the switch you need to replace.
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Thanks so much for the info! Yes, I see it in the photo! I don't know how to solder, but if I were to remove this portion of the unit (the circuit board) and take it into an electronics repair store, could they do it for me? Or would I need to take in the whole a/c unit? And would this be an inexpensive repair to do that one little switch? Would they need to order a special part or is it a generic type of switch? It would seem to be a minor repair (assuming nothing else is wrong with the unit, which I don't think there is). Thanks SO MUCH. I will definitely pursue this. Any further info is appreciated!
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Well, I don't know if the wires are all solder connections or if they have plugs, you would have to disconnect all of them. No, you would not have to take the entire unit in, just the board. The switch may be generic but it may have to be ordered from a supply house such as Mouser electronics or similar.
Unfortunately, I cannot give any kind of price as labor rates vary widely.
Unfortunately, I cannot give any kind of price as labor rates vary widely.
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Well, I don't know if the wires are all solder connections or if they have plugs, you would have to disconnect all of them. No, you would not have to take the entire unit in, just the board. The switch may be generic but it may have to be ordered from a supply house such as Mouser electronics or similar.
Unfortunately, I cannot give any kind of price as labor rates vary widely.
Unfortunately, I cannot give any kind of price as labor rates vary widely.
#6
The board is tied in with wires..... no plugs. That means you'd need to take the entire unit someplace. You may find a TV repair shop that will replace the button for you.
Those are called tactile switches. You said it developed a crack. Did you mean the part where the label is.... the bezel.... is cracked ? That will have no effect on the switch. You should be able to push the button without the name plate on. Check that first before doing anything else.
There are hundreds of tactile switches available. The top one on this list should be similar.
You could order several different but similar looking switches. They're only 10-15 cents each.
digikey/tactile-switches
Those are called tactile switches. You said it developed a crack. Did you mean the part where the label is.... the bezel.... is cracked ? That will have no effect on the switch. You should be able to push the button without the name plate on. Check that first before doing anything else.
There are hundreds of tactile switches available. The top one on this list should be similar.
You could order several different but similar looking switches. They're only 10-15 cents each.
digikey/tactile-switches
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The board is tied in with wires..... no plugs. That means you'd need to take the entire unit someplace. You may find a TV repair shop that will replace the button for you.
Those are called tactile switches. You said it developed a crack. Did you mean the part where the label is.... the bezel.... is cracked ? That will have no effect on the switch. You should be able to push the button without the name plate on. Check that first before doing anything else.
There are hundreds of tactile switches available. The top one on this list should be similar.
You could order several different but similar looking switches. They're only 10-15 cents each.
digikey/tactile-switches
Those are called tactile switches. You said it developed a crack. Did you mean the part where the label is.... the bezel.... is cracked ? That will have no effect on the switch. You should be able to push the button without the name plate on. Check that first before doing anything else.
There are hundreds of tactile switches available. The top one on this list should be similar.
You could order several different but similar looking switches. They're only 10-15 cents each.
digikey/tactile-switches
#8
Ok.... so based on your reply..... we have no idea if the problem is a defective power button or something more. My gut feeling is that the switch is not bad and it's something else.
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When the unit was still functional, I had a bad habit of turning it on and off frequently. It would get too cold and i'd turn it off, and then I'd feel warm again and turn it back on, etc. etc. That created a lot of wear and tear on the machine.
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CBB6-1 is a capacitor, either for the fan motor or the refrigeration compressor.
If you look very carefully on the back side of the printed circuit board where the on/off is soldered you should be able to determine that two points the switch closes. Assuming that it is a maintained contact switch, (it may not be but I'll address that in a minute) you could CAREFULLY connect a short insulated jumper wire between the two contact points while the machine is energized (plugged in) and see if it starts. If it does start remove the jumper and see if it stops. If it does both of these actions then the switch is a maintained contact and it could be replaced with just about any kind of switch on wires although not actually mounted on the PC board.
If adding the jumper starts the machine but it keeps running when the jumper is removed then try jumpering the contacts again and see if the machine stops. If it does then the switch is a momentary contact type.
I'm pretty sure that unit came with a remote control, do you still have it?
If you look very carefully on the back side of the printed circuit board where the on/off is soldered you should be able to determine that two points the switch closes. Assuming that it is a maintained contact switch, (it may not be but I'll address that in a minute) you could CAREFULLY connect a short insulated jumper wire between the two contact points while the machine is energized (plugged in) and see if it starts. If it does start remove the jumper and see if it stops. If it does both of these actions then the switch is a maintained contact and it could be replaced with just about any kind of switch on wires although not actually mounted on the PC board.
If adding the jumper starts the machine but it keeps running when the jumper is removed then try jumpering the contacts again and see if the machine stops. If it does then the switch is a momentary contact type.
I'm pretty sure that unit came with a remote control, do you still have it?
#11
That beep would be the power supply starting up and would be a normal sound.
The fact that you no longer hear it points to a power supply issue. Do you have a meter ?
Some basic checks could be made to help determine the problem.
The fact that you no longer hear it points to a power supply issue. Do you have a meter ?
Some basic checks could be made to help determine the problem.
#12
I can't find any information on a model SF-606R, however I can find info on a SF-608R. The manual indicates that it's an evaporative cooler, not an air conditioner. It works because the OP lives in Nevada. The manual for the 608 shows the control panel which looks like the one in the picture and includes a circuit diagram. Unfortunately, the circuit diagram doesn't contain much information. I agree with Pete, the problem is likely with the power supply. Here is a link to the manual I found: http://site.sunpentown.com/SF-608R_manual.pdf
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I am also tending to feel this is a power supply problem. Unfortunately I don't have a meter so can't check for that.
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You are correct , this is a 608R, my mistake on that model number. Yeah, the manual doesn't show much about the circuit board, certainly not enough for a DIY'er without a lot of knowledge to be able to fix it on their own. And yes this is an evap cooler.
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I can't find any information on a model SF-606R, however I can find info on a SF-608R. The manual indicates that it's an evaporative cooler, not an air conditioner. It works because the OP lives in Nevada. The manual for the 608 shows the control panel which looks like the one in the picture and includes a circuit diagram. Unfortunately, the circuit diagram doesn't contain much information. I agree with Pete, the problem is likely with the power supply. Here is a link to the manual I found: http://site.sunpentown.com/SF-608R_manual.pdf
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CBB6-1 is a capacitor, either for the fan motor or the refrigeration compressor.
If you look very carefully on the back side of the printed circuit board where the on/off is soldered you should be able to determine that two points the switch closes. Assuming that it is a maintained contact switch, (it may not be but I'll address that in a minute) you could CAREFULLY connect a short insulated jumper wire between the two contact points while the machine is energized (plugged in) and see if it starts. If it does start remove the jumper and see if it stops. If it does both of these actions then the switch is a maintained contact and it could be replaced with just about any kind of switch on wires although not actually mounted on the PC board.
If adding the jumper starts the machine but it keeps running when the jumper is removed then try jumpering the contacts again and see if the machine stops. If it does then the switch is a momentary contact type.
I'm pretty sure that unit came with a remote control, do you still have it?
If you look very carefully on the back side of the printed circuit board where the on/off is soldered you should be able to determine that two points the switch closes. Assuming that it is a maintained contact switch, (it may not be but I'll address that in a minute) you could CAREFULLY connect a short insulated jumper wire between the two contact points while the machine is energized (plugged in) and see if it starts. If it does start remove the jumper and see if it stops. If it does both of these actions then the switch is a maintained contact and it could be replaced with just about any kind of switch on wires although not actually mounted on the PC board.
If adding the jumper starts the machine but it keeps running when the jumper is removed then try jumpering the contacts again and see if the machine stops. If it does then the switch is a momentary contact type.
I'm pretty sure that unit came with a remote control, do you still have it?
#18
Since the unit used to beep when you plugged it in and it no longer does that, I doubt that it would work with the remote. I think buying a new remote would just be a waste of money.
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yep, it probably would be throwing good money after bad to buy a remote for it.
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Thanks everybody for your feedback and input on this Sunpentown unit. It seems like the overall conclusion is that this is probably a power supply issue. As indicated, I don't have a meter to specifically test for that, but IF it is a power supply problem, where within the unit would that problem be found? Around the power cord? (the cord visually looks fine). Or some other area? Just trying to pinpoint where "power supply" issues or problems would come from inside the unit. Thanks again for any further info on this.
#21
Since your pictures show a circuit board with LED's and an integrated circuit, there has to be a low voltage DC power supply to power the electronics. Whether it's a discrete power supply (individual components), or a "black box" (purchased) power supply, I don't know. The power cord would be connected to the power supply along with other things (motors, etc).
A couple of months ago, my son purchased an old Grundig stereo in a nice wood cabinet. He wanted it primarily for the cabinet, but he asked me if I could take a look at the electronics since it wouldn't turn on (I'm a retired electronic engineer). Fortunately, it came with a schematic (wiring diagram) and I quickly determined that the fuse was blown. Replacing the fuse saw it blow again almost instantly. From the schematic, I saw that it used a bridge rectifier package, which I suspected was shorted. I built a new rectifier assembly using discrete diodes, soldered it in, replaced the fuse again, and it works fine. It's much more difficult working on electronics without a schematic, since you have to trace the wiring and try to figure out what the components are.
While the part(s) required to repair your unit may be relatively inexpensive, the lack of good service information makes it prohibitively expensive to repair. I would suggest that you purchase a new one.
A couple of months ago, my son purchased an old Grundig stereo in a nice wood cabinet. He wanted it primarily for the cabinet, but he asked me if I could take a look at the electronics since it wouldn't turn on (I'm a retired electronic engineer). Fortunately, it came with a schematic (wiring diagram) and I quickly determined that the fuse was blown. Replacing the fuse saw it blow again almost instantly. From the schematic, I saw that it used a bridge rectifier package, which I suspected was shorted. I built a new rectifier assembly using discrete diodes, soldered it in, replaced the fuse again, and it works fine. It's much more difficult working on electronics without a schematic, since you have to trace the wiring and try to figure out what the components are.
While the part(s) required to repair your unit may be relatively inexpensive, the lack of good service information makes it prohibitively expensive to repair. I would suggest that you purchase a new one.
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Since your pictures show a circuit board with LED's and an integrated circuit, there has to be a low voltage DC power supply to power the electronics. Whether it's a discrete power supply (individual components), or a "black box" (purchased) power supply, I don't know. The power cord would be connected to the power supply along with other things (motors, etc).
A couple of months ago, my son purchased an old Grundig stereo in a nice wood cabinet. He wanted it primarily for the cabinet, but he asked me if I could take a look at the electronics since it wouldn't turn on (I'm a retired electronic engineer). Fortunately, it came with a schematic (wiring diagram) and I quickly determined that the fuse was blown. Replacing the fuse saw it blow again almost instantly. From the schematic, I saw that it used a bridge rectifier package, which I suspected was shorted. I built a new rectifier assembly using discrete diodes, soldered it in, replaced the fuse again, and it works fine. It's much more difficult working on electronics without a schematic, since you have to trace the wiring and try to figure out what the components are.
While the part(s) required to repair your unit may be relatively inexpensive, the lack of good service information makes it prohibitively expensive to repair. I would suggest that you purchase a new one.
A couple of months ago, my son purchased an old Grundig stereo in a nice wood cabinet. He wanted it primarily for the cabinet, but he asked me if I could take a look at the electronics since it wouldn't turn on (I'm a retired electronic engineer). Fortunately, it came with a schematic (wiring diagram) and I quickly determined that the fuse was blown. Replacing the fuse saw it blow again almost instantly. From the schematic, I saw that it used a bridge rectifier package, which I suspected was shorted. I built a new rectifier assembly using discrete diodes, soldered it in, replaced the fuse again, and it works fine. It's much more difficult working on electronics without a schematic, since you have to trace the wiring and try to figure out what the components are.
While the part(s) required to repair your unit may be relatively inexpensive, the lack of good service information makes it prohibitively expensive to repair. I would suggest that you purchase a new one.
#23
An evaporative cooler is a fairly simple machine and if you are content without having the timer or the "swing" function it should be easy to reverse engineer this unit to run without the circuit board. You would have to know something about simple electrical circuits.
All you would need is a straight on/off switch for main power and a three-speed selector for the fan motor. There may be a water level alarm and/or a low water safety switch for the pump.
The "swing" function is a small stepping motor that causes vanes in the air discharge duct to move from side to side. This only directs the air being discharged and could be eliminated. You could also use a plug-in appliance time for timed operation by leaving the main power switch on and the fan speed selector in the desired position. A further refinement could be a thermostat.
All you would need is a straight on/off switch for main power and a three-speed selector for the fan motor. There may be a water level alarm and/or a low water safety switch for the pump.
The "swing" function is a small stepping motor that causes vanes in the air discharge duct to move from side to side. This only directs the air being discharged and could be eliminated. You could also use a plug-in appliance time for timed operation by leaving the main power switch on and the fan speed selector in the desired position. A further refinement could be a thermostat.
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An evaporative cooler is a fairly simple machine and if you are content without having the timer or the "swing" function it should be easy to reverse engineer this unit to run without the circuit board. You would have to know something about simple electrical circuits.
All you would need is a straight on/off switch for main power and a three-speed selector for the fan motor. There may be a water level alarm and/or a low water safety switch for the pump.
The "swing" function is a small stepping motor that causes vanes in the air discharge duct to move from side to side. This only directs the air being discharged and could be eliminated. You could also use a plug-in appliance time for timed operation by leaving the main power switch on and the fan speed selector in the desired position. A further refinement could be a thermostat.
All you would need is a straight on/off switch for main power and a three-speed selector for the fan motor. There may be a water level alarm and/or a low water safety switch for the pump.
The "swing" function is a small stepping motor that causes vanes in the air discharge duct to move from side to side. This only directs the air being discharged and could be eliminated. You could also use a plug-in appliance time for timed operation by leaving the main power switch on and the fan speed selector in the desired position. A further refinement could be a thermostat.