Help with LG Portable A/C


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Old 08-12-18, 05:19 PM
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Help with LG Portable A/C




Hello everybody,

So after using my newly purchased (used) LG portable air conditioner model LP1311BXR for about 1 hour, I started having some issues. Looking at it, I noticed the air swing had stopped working - so i decided to power off the unit to get it going again. To my surprise NONE of the buttons worked at all on the display, nor did the remote control. After unplugging (in an attempt to reset the unit) .. The Unit would not turn back on! As though the buttons weren’t working again. As many probably know, when you plug in any LG device, there is a pretty little chime noise indicating that it’s been plugged in. This noise did not happen, and none of the buttons would work to power on the device.The display is also non-functional. Also note that the green light on the plug is no longer illuminating. I thought maybe it had overheated or something like that so I left the unit unplugged for about an hour and decided to plug it back in. The compressor kicked right on and it sounded like an a/c doing it’s thing. However, still no screen or button function, and also the Exhust and Blower turbines are not spinning or functioning. You hear the compressor for about 30 seconds or so, then it clicks and whirs and nothing really happens. The lines on the condesor ARE getting ice cold for the 30 secs that the compressor stays on. It pains me to think I just purchased a dud unit .. “as-is” of course, but when i purchased it we tested it and it worked well! Then worked very well at my home for less than an hour - now this. I have managed to get the entire cabinet off of the unit and all wires and boards appear intact and unburnt.. But i do not even know where to begin on this. Any input is very much appreciated. I also have a video that i am trying to post onto here, so anybody willing to take a look I can send it over to.

Thanks in advance!!


 
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Old 08-12-18, 05:35 PM
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http://vimeo.com/284645024?ref=em-share

Just a quick video of what happens when I apply power to the unit. No screen, no buttons,
no LG power chime.. Just compressor, then the clicking and whirring. Any input appreciated. Since this video, I have the entire cabinet exposed for the time being.
 
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Old 08-12-18, 06:02 PM
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Make sure there’s power to the main board, beyond that it’ll need to be diagnosed. May be a board issue.
If you don’t have the tools or basic mechanical skills to do it yourself it’s trash. These can’t usually be fixed for less cash then you can buy a brand new one for.
Those single hose models like yours are terrible little machines. Very inefficient as they suck all the air out of the room they are trying to condition.
 
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Old 08-12-18, 06:18 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Unfortunately that sounds like a control board failure. Not a real common problem on those LG units. Usually leaving it unplugged for a few minutes will reset the board and the display.

I wasn't able to find a free service manual for that unit but I did find one for purchase if you are interested.
service manuals.net/LG/LP1311BXR/721007/detail.aspx
 
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Old 08-12-18, 06:39 PM
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Thanks for the responses! As far as this hosed unit, it seemed like it would work well for our situation in a basement, when a window a/c was not an option. It may spit a lot of air out of the room, but if the result is cooling, I am pleased. As far as the control board failure, that was my thought, as well. I did disconnect the board and inspect it for burnt / damaged capacitors.. and nothing was apparant. But there are also plenty of relaying that “click” loudly when it shuts off after the compressor only kicking on. Trying to gather as much info as possible before I go shelling out for a new board. Thanks for the tips!
 
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Old 08-12-18, 06:51 PM
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Although I do hate the game of “guess and replace” .. Does it make sense to give replacing the main board a shot? Seems like I can find part COV30331502 on eBay for about $50. It will cost me at least double that to even have it diagnosed. With how wonky the electronics of the unit are acting, I am tempted to give this a shot.
 
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Old 08-12-18, 07:40 PM
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Before you change the board...... that board uses a linear power supply which means there is a transformer present. Looking at the picture.... I think the red circle is the AC to the transformer and the blue circle is the AC from the transformer. The yellow circle is a fuse but I'd imagine it's ok as the compressor is running. I would check the red circle for 120vAC to the transformer and the blue circle for something like 12-24Vac. If the transformer is working. Replace the board. If the transformer isn't working.... further diagnostics are needed.

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Old 08-12-18, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for the detailed response. I can assure you the fuse circled in yellow is NOT blown. This maybe be horrible to even say, but i am not sure exactly how I would go about testing the voltages in the areas you recommended. Obviously, with a multimeter. I would assume the aircon unit would need to be powred on during testing? So i disconnect those red and blue harnesses and test the prongs within the harness why the unit is powered, or just poke thru a wire to get a reading? Nervous about screwing up polarity or getting zapped lol. Usually try to do as much DIY as i can, and I have no problem testing electrical in vehicles, but this is a little new to me. Thanks
 
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Old 08-12-18, 08:21 PM
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I would assume this is the transformer. The red and blue circled from your picture each go into opposite ends of this component. Could this transformer be casuing these odd issues?


Edit: been trying to post the darn picture to no avail. part number is ypa-206a, and looking it up shows it as a Haire brand transformer.

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Last edited by PJmax; 08-12-18 at 09:08 PM. Reason: added pic
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Old 08-12-18, 09:05 PM
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The plugs need to be in place..... especially the 120v one as that powers the transformer. The board needs to be powered but not in particularly running as the transformer is always live. If the board is not currently mounted in place.... it needs to be on something non conductive as the bottom of the board will be hot. You should be able to carefully poke your probes into where the wires are crimped in. Test the 120vAC first. Make sure your meter is set to an AC scale over what you are measuring. There is no probe polarity.

On edit: yes that is the transformer. The red wires and red plug are the 120vAC lines.
If that is dead.... the board will be dead.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 08-13-18 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 08-13-18, 05:15 AM
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Thank you very much for your help and bearing with me. Especially with me being a noob to all this. I think i can pull off testing the voltages quite easily. Going to borrow a multimeter today. Hopefully get slme insight.
 
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Old 08-15-18, 10:32 AM
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New board fixed it. Totally pumped to have a nice cool room now. Thanks for everybodies help.
 
 

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