Payne HVAC high limit switch
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Payne HVAC high limit switch
My furnace works for several minutes then shuts down and restarts every few minutes. I have called many HVAC pros and still has not resolved it yet. However, the last technician bypassed the high limit switch and the furnace worked perfectly. He told me to replace the limit switch. He left the switch bypassed until the part is delivered and replaced. The unit ran perfectly for a week until the part came in and got replaced. Right away, as soon as I replaced it, the new limit switch is turning the furnace on and off. What are the chances the new high limit switch is bad? Could it be something else? If so, how come bypassing it worked fine? Any help is appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
First off...... NEVER bypass a high heat safety limit. Your "tech" should know better.
It's ok to test but it must be in place for unattended operation.
0 to none....... just like the original one.
You need to find out why the furnace is overheating.......
Dirty air filter or too restrictive.
Dirty blower wheel.
Dirty a/c coil.
Blocked returns or too many registers closed off.
Burner overfiring.
First off...... NEVER bypass a high heat safety limit. Your "tech" should know better.
It's ok to test but it must be in place for unattended operation.
What are the chances the new high limit switch is bad?
You need to find out why the furnace is overheating.......
Dirty air filter or too restrictive.
Dirty blower wheel.
Dirty a/c coil.
Blocked returns or too many registers closed off.
Burner overfiring.
Last edited by PJmax; 02-24-19 at 01:32 PM. Reason: typo
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Wow. OK at least I have the new one in there now.
They checked a lot of things including changing the air filter to a cheap one that allowed more air in. They also checked other things including checking the air return. As for the blower wheel and a/c coil, I'm not sure if they did or not. When nothing worked after all that is when they recommended the replacement of the high limit switch. Bypassing it was the only thing that made it work. Its odd since it used to work fine and started doing this about a month ago. The unit is only 2 years old. I'm paying about $100 for each time they come out and suggest a fix that doesn't work.
I didn't mention earlier that it displays error code 33.
Thanks for the response!
They checked a lot of things including changing the air filter to a cheap one that allowed more air in. They also checked other things including checking the air return. As for the blower wheel and a/c coil, I'm not sure if they did or not. When nothing worked after all that is when they recommended the replacement of the high limit switch. Bypassing it was the only thing that made it work. Its odd since it used to work fine and started doing this about a month ago. The unit is only 2 years old. I'm paying about $100 for each time they come out and suggest a fix that doesn't work.

I didn't mention earlier that it displays error code 33.
Thanks for the response!
#4
clock the gas meter to make sure it's not over-fired: https://hvactechhangout.com/home/sys...k-a-gas-meter/
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the suggestion.
So I clocked the meter and got 28 seconds which equates to 64,000 BTU/h. My unit is rated at 60,000 BTU. Not far off?
I turned the supply gas valve just slightly to reduce the flame by about only 10-15%. I sat and waited for about 30 to see if it will stop, but it seemed to have fixed the issue. I re-opened the valve back and shutdown the unit for the night. Would it have been safe to leave the flame reduced and let it operate that way? The unit is only 2 years old and it had worked fine last winter and half of this winter so not sure what changed?
So I clocked the meter and got 28 seconds which equates to 64,000 BTU/h. My unit is rated at 60,000 BTU. Not far off?
I turned the supply gas valve just slightly to reduce the flame by about only 10-15%. I sat and waited for about 30 to see if it will stop, but it seemed to have fixed the issue. I re-opened the valve back and shutdown the unit for the night. Would it have been safe to leave the flame reduced and let it operate that way? The unit is only 2 years old and it had worked fine last winter and half of this winter so not sure what changed?
#6
Member
No, it is not safe or correct to use the gas shutoff as a throttle. You should check gas supply and manifold pressure.