Bypass Fan control Board (un-bypass)


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Old 06-24-19, 12:22 PM
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Bypass Fan control Board (un-bypass)

There is an exact/similar post about this almost 5yrs ago, so I hope someone can also help me. Can anyone please tell me how to unbypass this Honeywell st9162a 1014 Fan control board? An AC tech bypassed the circuit to make the blower run 24/7. I bought myself an exact board but don't know how the original wiring was connected. Does anyone know how I can do this. I'm posting pics and schematics.

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Last edited by PJmax; 06-24-19 at 02:40 PM. Reason: resized pictures
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Old 06-24-19, 02:20 PM
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There are 4 wires that come from the motor that control speed - red, black, orange, and blue (as well as a white neutral). It looks like your black wire is not connected to the board so is probably the one doing the 24x7 fan. It may be under one of the wire nuts. Trace wires and see what connects to what. (from diagram black should have gone to COOL terminal)

Also should verify that the G/green low voltage fan wire from the thermostat is not involved. Temporarily disconnect it from the screw terminal to check. In the pictures it doesn't appear to be your case (no wire on COOL terminal) but added this for completeness.
 
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Old 06-24-19, 04:10 PM
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Correct, the black wire (from the motor) is connected to a wire nut, that then splits off to the transformer (at top left) and then to a connection (bottom left). Does this further help?
 
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Old 06-24-19, 05:27 PM
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A "tech" did that ?!!!?!!?!?! More like a hack did that.

That wire would have had a slide on crimp terminal already on it. It could have been slid on to an "always" live line terminal. I can see one open on the board. Instead it was cut off and spliced in with the transformer hot line.

The puzzling part is how he isolated that wire from the other blower wires. You can't energize two blower wires at the same time and since I see wiring on the heat high and low terminals..... there would have been smoke.

OR.... where there no wires on the heat terminals and you put them there ?
The black blower wire will need to be disconnected from that splice and connected to the COOL terminal.
 
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Old 06-24-19, 05:38 PM
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In pic 5 above there is another wire nut with what appears to be black wires attached. Can you check that one and trace its wires? I'm concerned as it appears you had a hack and they might have done other mischief. The wire-nuts on the Y and C wires should not have been needed as two wires normally can go under one screw. Any other wire nuts not accounted for?
 
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Old 06-24-19, 05:44 PM
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The LV stuff looks ok. Many guys won't put two wires under a screw terminal.
 
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Old 06-24-19, 05:48 PM
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This is how the tech set it up many months ago and the blower has been running non-stop. All the more reasons to get this back in order... There was a terminal on the black wire, but I recall him cutting it off and setting it up as seen in the photos. I will add a new terminal on the end and move it to the COOL slot. I suspect I'll need to do something with that other "smaller" black line. Where does that go?
 

Last edited by kprussel; 06-24-19 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 06-24-19, 06:00 PM
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It looks like the blower black wire was added to the cut transformer line. One end of the black wire goes to the transformer. The other end goes to a LINE terminal on the board. The orange wire nut will remain for the two small black wires.
 
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Old 06-24-19, 06:01 PM
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pic #5; that wire goes to a terminal called "IND HIGH"
 
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Old 06-24-19, 06:32 PM
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Many guys won't put two wires under a screw terminal.
Someone was OK with putting 2 wires under the W1 screw terminal. Maybe it was the hack and not the installer.


that wire goes to a terminal called "IND HIGH"
Just 2 wires under the nut? If so OK. May have replaced the inducer motor or the hack cut the wrong wire.
 
 

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