A/C not cooling enough
#1
05-16-20, 08:51 AM
A/C not cooling enough
so this is the first time of the season I turn my air conditioning, and I noticed that it is cool but not cold.
I checked outside unit and it is blowing the air, but on the top, its cold air, I believe when AC works fine, it should be blowing the hot air outside on the top of air handler.
Is that mean that I am low on Freon?
is there something I can DIY before I call the technician?
Thanks,
I checked outside unit and it is blowing the air, but on the top, its cold air, I believe when AC works fine, it should be blowing the hot air outside on the top of air handler.
Is that mean that I am low on Freon?
is there something I can DIY before I call the technician?
Thanks,
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#2
05-16-20, 09:40 AM
Your outside unit is called a condenser. It removes the heat from inside the house and discharges it outside via the refrigerant. When it's working normally.... the air coming out of the top can get fairly warm to hot.
There are two copper refrigerant lines connecting that condenser to the inside air handler. Check the larger line outside..... it should be ice cold. If not... you are most likely low on a charge.
There are two copper refrigerant lines connecting that condenser to the inside air handler. Check the larger line outside..... it should be ice cold. If not... you are most likely low on a charge.
#3
05-16-20, 10:07 AM
Member
If the unit is low on refrigerant, make sure the leak is found and fixed. Refrigerant isn’t consumed during unit operation, and it shouldn’t need to be charged.
#4
05-16-20, 01:12 PM
Member
"Is that mean that I am low on Freon?
is there something I can DIY before I call the technician?"
Not necessarily, you might have a bad run capacitor and the compressor shut off on overload. If you've been trying to run it, the compressor will be quite warm or hot to the touch. If your handy you can test/replace the capacitor if needed.
is there something I can DIY before I call the technician?"
Not necessarily, you might have a bad run capacitor and the compressor shut off on overload. If you've been trying to run it, the compressor will be quite warm or hot to the touch. If your handy you can test/replace the capacitor if needed.
#5
05-16-20, 01:33 PM
You might be right that I have bad run capacitor
i have attached the old capacitor and new capacitor pictures. By looking It May be the capacitor but after replacing the outside unit didn’t turn on
i have attached the old capacitor and new capacitor pictures. By looking It May be the capacitor but after replacing the outside unit didn’t turn on
#6
05-16-20, 03:20 PM
Member
That old capacitor got hot.
You have a melted wire there that needs addressed ASAP.
You have a melted wire there that needs addressed ASAP.
#7
05-16-20, 05:26 PM
Yes..... that red wire from the cap to the contactor could stand a replacement.
However.... the system should still run.
Is the contactor being drawn in ?
Is the condenser fan working ?
However.... the system should still run.
Is the contactor being drawn in ?
Is the condenser fan working ?
#8
05-16-20, 05:47 PM
Sorry I mixed things up.
For this unit fan wasn’t running, colling was okay. Keeping the temperature down.
i had to call the tech. He replaced the conductor (or whatever that black thing called where the red wire connecting to), he Also mentioned that I was using the wrong capacitor . The one that I was using bought from granger model number 2MEG1 for 5 ton AC. I have to open the unit to take a look and see which one he put. He also put about 2lbs Freon.
Above was issue 1. He charged me $500 but after going back and forth I paid $350
Second issue was for the upstairs unit which fan was running outside but inside air pressure was very low and not cold at all. Tech told me there is no Freon and it’s completely empty. He says it would cost me much more and I should replace that whole unit. This unit is 4 tons. Nothing was done for that. Another tech coming on Monday to give me an estimate.
Any recommendations for replacing 5 tons in northern Virginia area? What system I should consider replacing with?
He checked and told me that
For this unit fan wasn’t running, colling was okay. Keeping the temperature down.
i had to call the tech. He replaced the conductor (or whatever that black thing called where the red wire connecting to), he Also mentioned that I was using the wrong capacitor . The one that I was using bought from granger model number 2MEG1 for 5 ton AC. I have to open the unit to take a look and see which one he put. He also put about 2lbs Freon.
Above was issue 1. He charged me $500 but after going back and forth I paid $350
Second issue was for the upstairs unit which fan was running outside but inside air pressure was very low and not cold at all. Tech told me there is no Freon and it’s completely empty. He says it would cost me much more and I should replace that whole unit. This unit is 4 tons. Nothing was done for that. Another tech coming on Monday to give me an estimate.
Any recommendations for replacing 5 tons in northern Virginia area? What system I should consider replacing with?
He checked and told me that
#9
05-19-20, 08:23 AM
so decided to replace the unit, current one is Goodman 4 tons.
Replacing with also Goodman 4 tons 14 SEER.
Received multiple quotes and the best I got is to get it installed for $4850
Replacing with also Goodman 4 tons 14 SEER.
Received multiple quotes and the best I got is to get it installed for $4850
#10
05-19-20, 08:34 AM
Member
My first question would be if you really need 4 tons?
The installation makes all the difference. Interview a good contractor.
The installation makes all the difference. Interview a good contractor.
#11
05-19-20, 08:43 AM
I currently have 2 units for covering 7000 sqft house.
5 tons for downstairs and 4 tons for upstairs.
contractor replacing the same unit (he told me that the new one would be SEER14 which is better than the one installed 15 years ago).
I guess, if builder put 4 tons to cover the upstairs, that what it supposed to be.
5 tons for downstairs and 4 tons for upstairs.
contractor replacing the same unit (he told me that the new one would be SEER14 which is better than the one installed 15 years ago).
I guess, if builder put 4 tons to cover the upstairs, that what it supposed to be.
#12
05-19-20, 08:46 AM
Member
14 SEER is the basic minimum allowed.
Builders often don’t install the right size equipment. Often it’s too big.
Builders often don’t install the right size equipment. Often it’s too big.
#15
05-22-20, 12:10 PM
"I guess, if builder put 4 tons to cover the upstairs, that what it supposed to be."
Nothing could be further from the truth! Builders invariably oversize HVAC equipment - when they get it right, it's pure luck! If the old 4 ton unit was cooling and dehumidifying properly, then the replacement 4 ton unit should be fine. If it couldn't cool enough (from day 1) then it was probably undersized. If it cooled quickly and you always felt cold and clammy, then it was oversized (cooling too quickly to dehumidify).
Hopefully, the new unit will work out for you.
Nothing could be further from the truth! Builders invariably oversize HVAC equipment - when they get it right, it's pure luck! If the old 4 ton unit was cooling and dehumidifying properly, then the replacement 4 ton unit should be fine. If it couldn't cool enough (from day 1) then it was probably undersized. If it cooled quickly and you always felt cold and clammy, then it was oversized (cooling too quickly to dehumidify).
Hopefully, the new unit will work out for you.
