Newer Window AC - Bad Cap, Cutoff, or is Compressor Toast

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Old 05-17-20, 01:09 PM
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Newer Window AC - Bad Cap, Cutoff, or is Compressor Toast

I'm hoping someone with repair knowledge can offer some input on a inoperable Window AC unit.

Quick version. 2 year old 10,000 BTU Kenmore (apparent LG Components) has full power and working fan, but the compressor will not engage. A video of the symptoms is here: https://vimeo.com/419645674

Does it seem like it's simply a bad capacitor, maybe a bad thermal cutoff switch, or is this symptomatic of a dead compressor?

More detail: Unit is a Kenmore Elite 77101 that seems to actually be made by LG. It was just over a year old and hadn't even been through 2 summers yet when the problem started. It stopped working last year and has been in storage for the winter.

Symptoms: Full power and apparent function - Fan runs and the panel acts like it's working properly, but compressor will not engage. There's a very faint "tick" sound (relay?) and what seems to be a change in power level to the fan for a few seconds, then the the fan resumes full power (in the video you can even see the fan speed change as the compressor tries to engage) I'm assuming this is the start relay trying to engage the compressor, but when it can't it stops trying.

I have tried a suggested technique of tapping the compressor with a rubber mallet as it tries to engage with no effect.

There were no issues leading up to this. No freezing. No drop in output, no odd noises, no apparent cycling issues. Just a sudden realization that the room was hot and that the compressor wasn't on. It had been hot the few days before it stopped working, high 80's to low 90's with high humidity, but nothing it hadn't handled before.

In general the unit was not overworked though. I'd even kept the thermostat set at 78 to keep power use down and to keep from over working the unit. We would usually turn it to just fan at night and open windows when it cools down, but it had been on the cool setting for over a full 48 hours. Even that doesn't seem like it should stress the unit that much though.

We tried power cycling, and even left it unplugged overnight with no change.

I'm trying to decide if it can be reasonably easily repaired, or if I need to look for a replacement before it starts getting unbearably hot (in either case, I don't think I'll ever buy Kenmore or LG anything again).

Any input is greatly appreciated. THANKS!
 
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Old 05-17-20, 02:43 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

That sounds like it could be a defective capacitor.
Is there a longer model number on the ID plate ?
It would look like xxx.xxxxxxxxxxxxx
 
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Old 05-17-20, 07:06 PM
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Hi Pete!
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to get the box out again to be sure, but it looks like it's 580.77107710.

I've been hunting parts numbers and I'm now pretty certain that this Kenmore is actually a re-badged LG Model LW1017ERSM. Same dimensions, and specs. Same control layout. Same slide out chassis. Same remote. Same compressor. Same reports of failure on Amazon... I can only find a number for a fan start capacitor so far unfortunately.
 
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Old 05-17-20, 07:51 PM
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Yes.... 580. is Goldstar/LG.

That is dual combo cap used for the fan and the compressor. Part # 0CZZA20001N
6.0uf for fan ---- 50uf for hermetic (compressor) 270vac

Sears Parts Direct capacitor
 
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Old 05-17-20, 08:02 PM
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Awesome! Thank you. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

Any chance the one that's in there will still have a charge in it after 6-7 months? Will it still need to be discharged?
 
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