Shady A/C Service Tactics HELP

So last year my mother in laws Central A/C unit quit and she called the only HVAC guy in town. He comes out, no one is there, he is there for maybe 10 minutes and says that the compressor is shot, she needs a whole new unit. She cant afford it, buys a portable AC unit and here we are.
So i finally get there, (she's in another state) I decide to look at the unit and he JUST PULLED THE CAPACITOR. Thats all!! Why would he do that? granted the unit is a 1988 Kenmore(I think) MODEL CA1030QKA1 867.806350.
I found a direct replacement capacitor, but cannot find the wiring diagram. I would love to try a new capacitor and see if it works, but unsure of how it hooks up. I have three wires with disconnect terminals, the wires are orange, yellow and white. Then there are two larger gage wires with fork terminals color grey and orange.
If anyone could help me out that would be great. I plan on going back out there and would love to fire it back up and it works and then I'm gonna go find that guy.

 

The fork terminals go to the contactor. The others go to the duel run capacitor. I don’t have a chance to look up the specs at the moment.
Test the compressor to ground with your meter while you have it unwired.

 

Yeah thanks, i should have done that when i was there. I took bad pictures when i was there, but i didnt see a contactor there either. there are screw holes to the right of the capacitors spot. I would LOVE wiring diagram, but google cant find me one.

 

ICP/TEMPSTAR/HEIL (867.806350)
A/C condenser. R22. 2.5 ton. 230v-1-60. 8 SEER.
Sears/Kenmore model similar to CA1030QKA1.

Sear's Parts Direct

Needs 1P 25A 24V coil contactor. Contactor
Capacitor: dual run 5+55 mfd 440 volt

Looking for wiring diagram.

 

I've been on many "second opinion" calls for a bad compressor. Often the systems are left unassembled by the previous tech as reassembly of a unit with a shorted compressor isn't going to fix anything. Confirming a short is quick and doesn't take a diagram. As stated in post#2's last sentence, I would test to ground before trying to do any repairs. If it is without a short, then ohm it out. If it checks good then I would see if the system is holding any refrigerant at all. If it's flat you have more issues that are costly to repair/recharge. Then I would do a quick spin of the blade to see if the motor is still free. Only then would I concern myself with wiring it back up. BTW, It looks like you might have an old contactor still in there behind your hand.

 

Im thinking the same thing. I need to check the compressor before i start throwing money at it. I'll check it out this month and get back on here with an update. I've been looking all over for a wiring diagram to no avail.

 

it is possible he'd pull the capacitor for two reasons, legitimately, you said he's the only repair man in town so ...

1) needs info off the can to order one, easiest way is to grab it

2) it was leaky, a leaky capacitor could cause more damage or even a fire

if he was a stealign contractor

a) he'd steal the freon gas not a capacitor, it's 3x or more expensive

b) he'd leave only a few leads unplugged - he wouldn't bother taking the capacitor. seedy automotive mechanics do this, i've seen it. it's why window motors are so frequently replaced. they don't take the motor: they just leave a single plug unplugged

 

I hate reading posts where there is an almost automatic assumption that AC service techs are only out to make money through nefarious practices. A 100% honest tech can make a good living. That same tech with a good reputation can make a much better living. When people who were not even present at a service call make uneducated assumptions as to what did or didn't take place it can fuel these unwarranted beliefs. Does this mean that everyone in the service industry is a squeaky clean, NO, am I saying this belief is over inflated, YES.
In this case please read the post and look at the photos of this 1988 system. Techs have been replacing much newer entire units with minor issues because people want to upgrade from R-22 to R-410. Do you actually think that someone legally in the custody of a take-out system 20+ years newer is going to look at a 1988 system and think "this is the one I'll risk my career and reputation on by stealing low-cost junk parts?". A big money/time loss for a service tech is a "recall", just one recall due to using a weak used part will lose you much more than any extra profit you would have made improperly. If you wanted to reuse non-virgin refrigerant from a different system than it came out of you would be risking your EPA license, fine, criminal action, etc. If you were dumb enough to try you certainly wouldn't do it with a customer's system, you would do it from a take-out system, even then it's stupid considering the time, hassle , and the fact that it might be a worthless blend of unknown refrigerants full of leak sealant already.
It's also bothersome when people think techs are somehow doing customers a disservice by not adding unnecessary or unneeded parts. I've never seen a need to add and charge for, lets say 'sight glasses" or "hard start kits" when a system is running fine without. If a need arises for such parts I explain the pros/cons to the owner in a manner they can understand and let them make the decision. A tech's job is to honestly service his customer and their equipment. It would be impossible to try to satisfy all additional people not present but hearing or reading of the service encounter after the fact. -In this case a year later-. If an honest person lets false accusations or negative stereotyping go unchallenged it could be assumed by some as a tacit agreement. As noted I disagree.

 

None of the terminals on the compressor are grounded out so thats good. The ohms from C to R were 1.2. C to S 2.5. R to S 3.3.
I did find the capacitor, it was thrown inside the unit where the compressor is sitting.
I do not have the gages to check the freon.
Fans spins free.

 

Hi, have you verified that you have 24 VAC to the coil of that contactor ? Do you have 240 VAC to the top terminals on the contactor?
Check this link https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...05V-6jA2P8WjjM
Geo 🇺🇸

 

So im guessing I would have to have 240 on the black and white, L1 and L2. Where would the 24 vac come from in this picture, The yellow lead? And where are the 24 volts coming from?

 

Coil connections are on the sides. And are fed from the air handler.

 

The two line terminals are the 240v in to the unit.
The two 24v yellow wires get the 24v power from C and Y from the thermostat.
There will be pressure switches in the 24v lines.