New AC bids, what do you think


  #1  
Old 11-10-21, 11:19 AM
O
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 241
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
New AC bids, what do you think

So I got the following. All licensed contractors. What are your thoughts? I think Alpha Air stands out the most, but let me know if you need any further details.

Bumblebee
Goodman - Split 14.5 Seer 12.5 EER Single Stage - 5 ton; $9,500

Alpha Air
Trane 4TTR4060L1000* 14 SEER XR14 AC 5 Ton; $8,275.

DNA
Goodman 14-SEER; $7,985.00

CW Mechanical
5 Ton- American Standard Silver 14 Air Conditioner with Silver S9X1 Gas Furnace and American Standard Platinum Indoor Coil; $10,425.10

Allstar
Goodman 5 Ton Split System; $7,280.00

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 11-11-21, 06:35 AM
2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 20
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
I'm more likely to repair than to buy a whole new 10k system. What's wrong with your old one?
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-21, 07:21 AM
O
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 241
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
I'm more likely to repair than to buy a whole new 10k system. What's wrong with your old one?
As I was told, the existing system is the 408A standard or whatever the older standard was when the house was built in 1989. It's just not worth changing parts anymore and a newer condenser will not be compatible with the attic's older standard as well. I could just switch out to a new compressor and the system will continue working but there's no telling what will go wrong in the future with the other parts. It seems like it's more economically feasible to just switch out the whole thing.
 
Bob14525 voted this post useful.
  #4  
Old 11-11-21, 08:34 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: United States
Posts: 162
Received 21 Upvotes on 19 Posts
kilobucks \/
7..x.......x8..x......9....x...10..x......11

Maybe there's a cluster around $8k but I'd get more bids because the range of prices is wide.

Using the quartile function on a spreadsheet says that half the prices are between $7,985 & $9,500 so I'd wonder what the people below & above these bids are actually bidding on.

BTW, our house at 40 deg. North Latitude with 2200 sf takes 2.5 ton.
 
  #5  
Old 11-12-21, 06:03 PM
O
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 241
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Bulova, the difference may be the quality of the parts used, or maybe they have something up their sleeve and are cutting corners. Not sure how to evaluate this as it's not my expertise. I did get another quote over the phone that came out to $8,000, so that seems about right.
 
  #6  
Old 11-12-21, 09:34 PM
C
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas, California
Posts: 1,407
Upvotes: 0
Received 6 Upvotes on 6 Posts
I would ask for at least 16 SEER.
 
  #7  
Old 11-13-21, 08:46 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: United States
Posts: 162
Received 21 Upvotes on 19 Posts
They're all working from the same labor & material pool so this spread says something each contractor.
If prices are very close, it could be price fixing.

Now half are contained within $8.3k & $9.2K, with average = $8.6k.
I'd only trust written bids, so count the $8k as a minimum.

If a bidder asks for your budget, I'd disqualify that one.
 
  #8  
Old 11-13-21, 10:49 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: United States
Posts: 162
Received 21 Upvotes on 19 Posts
@14 SEER, @$0.15/kwh, @1000 hrs/yr cooling season, you'd spend $643/yr for elec.
@10 SEER, @$0.15/kwh, @1000 hrs/yr cooling season, you'd spend $900/yr for elec.
@16 SEER, @$0.15/kwh, @1000 hrs/yr cooling season, you'd spend $563/yr for elec.

There's a breakeven point years from now where you make back your install cost. Note that almost everyone moves out after 14 years.

You could look up Cooling Degree Days for your area & your elec. bill will tell you the $/kwh.

For this many kilobucks the effort might be worth it.
 
  #9  
Old 11-15-21, 07:37 AM
2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 20
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
As I was told, the existing system is the 408A standard or whatever the older standard was when the house was built in 1989. It's just not worth changing parts anymore and a newer condenser will not be compatible with the attic's older standard as well. I could just switch out to a new compressor and the system will continue working but there's no telling what will go wrong in the future with the other parts. It seems like it's more economically feasible to just switch out the whole thing.
I don't know about that. You can find a new condenser (assuming that's what's wrong/leaking) for most systems for around $300 then have someone braze it in for about $150-200. That's what I've done in the past and I'm going on four years with no problems.
Keep in mind with the newer systems that you're giving up reliability because of all the electronics involved, and the new condensers are thinner walled for planned obsolescence..
 
  #10  
Old 11-16-21, 10:13 AM
O
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 241
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
I don't know about that. You can find a new condenser (assuming that's what's wrong/leaking) for most systems for around $300 then have someone braze it in for about $150-200. That's what I've done in the past and I'm going on four years with no problems.
Keep in mind with the newer systems that you're giving up reliability because of all the electronics involved, and the new condensers are thinner walled for planned obsolescence..
Compressor or condenser? The cheapest I've found out here for a used compressor is $1,000 installed, $2,500 new. Where did you find those prices?

I spoke with a lot people regarding this and it seems like the right thing to do is bite the bullet and upgrade the whole system. I can always sell my home and try to recuperate a portion of the money I put into it. Then again, a realty home inspection will only check if the AC is working or not working.
 
  #11  
Old 11-22-21, 06:50 AM
2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 20
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Condenser. A compressor will be more since that's a piece with moving parts. You said, "A new condenser will not be compatible with the old system", so I priced a condenser. If your compressor's bad, that's always more money. Which part is bad, exactly?
 
  #12  
Old 11-22-21, 10:01 AM
O
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 241
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Which part is bad, exactly?
The compressor isn't compressing. The outside unit is old even though I did replace the fan. I should have asked the seller to replace the entire unit as a condition of purchase.

I can either change the compressor and keep paying for fixes as the unit dies or just pay a larger amount and never have to worry again. I'm leaning towards the latter.
 
  #13  
Old 11-23-21, 07:27 AM
2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 20
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
The compressor is one of only a few moving parts. If it were me, I'd replace the compressor and keep my old, better built condenser. Much cheaper and you'll have very few maintenance problems from that point forward. In fact, if you have them replace the capacitor ($30-60) at the same time, you're probably good to go for years.
 
CircuitBreaker voted this post useful.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: