You need three parts..... motorized damper, transformer to power it and thermostat.
In the link below is a basic motorized damper with a plug in transformer. It just requires a thermostat.
With no power..... the damper closes.
There are different sizes of motorized dampers.
A basic battery type thermostat is the easiest to use.
If you don't want to use a battery type the wiring can be changed to accommodate. Suncourt damper kit Basic thermostats
The thermostat ONLY opens the damper. It does not control the HVAC system.
Keep in mind that this damper will close when the temperature is satisfied but because it does not control the furnace you will have no heat when the upstairs is warm enough.
In our cold climate a common solution for basement rooms is to install an electric baseboard heater to supplement the forced air heating.
So, why can’t I run power from my furnace to the damper then the thermostat? That way the thermostat will tell the damper to open and the furnace to come on.
House is 1700sft 2 storey, 2x2.5ton units.
Downstairs unit is not cooling, just blowing hot air (coils leaked freon) and upstairs unit does not cool during the day but only at night from 10pm when temps cool do you feel a difference. It properly cools from midnight...and it's cold freezing by 3 am.
Called a guy here to either service or quote for a replacement for downstairs unit and check into the said upstairs unit. For the latter he said the issue is both units have to be running for the upstairs to work effectively. Huh? Never heard of that. I can see how that would help but I thought the two units are independent of each other such that you don't need to run cooling for the floor you are not spending time on, should you be staying on the other floor. Again I can perceive how running the downstairs unit will help some the upstairs unit cool more effectively. Am I correct or is he?Read More
Hello,
I know what everyone will tell me its not that easy figuring this out but I am giving it a go anyway. I am going to install 2 dual zone mini ductless systems in my home. I need to know how to calculate how big of a unit I will need for my second floor rooms though. since the house is a cape style with an addition on the rear it is a very odd setup.
The rear room has 3 ft knee walls and is 30x13. how do you take into account that the ceiling is sloped in your calculations for BTUS for heat and cooling?
according to the standard chart this would need a 12K air handler inside but in reality with the sloped ceiling it gets hotter and cooler faster up there then I thought. there is only one electric heater currently in that room 1750 watt and it seems to get warm right away when I kick the heat up and have to turn it down to around 66 to keep it from getting too hot up there. any help would be greatly appreciated. I know this is something that a professional would be able to work out with numbers but I do not have the time or money to hire a lot of people to figure these numbers out. I am installing the units myself since I have done them in the past for others but they never really had a sloped ceiling to deal with. My biggest concern is oversizing the units since we really need to get the humidity out of the room also. Read More
11-16-21, 10:16 AM
