I received 2 estimates for air conditioning work on McQuay HSE-060AR 6000 cfm chilled water unit in one bedroom 750 square feet condo. This is in HCOL area Honolulu. One quote was for 10000 to replace this AC with new unit therefore thats out of my range. Does 1500 dollars or 2100 (additional 900 if fan replaced) sound right for such cleaning job?
1st ESTIMATE $1525
Removal of cooling coil/fan assembly for chemical cleaning and flushing
Replacement of old fiberglass insulation with new Reflectex insulation
Reinstall cooling coil/fan assembly purge cooling coil of air
Replace old wall mount thermostat controller with new Honeywell digital controller
Restart system and confirm proper operation
2nd ESTIMATE Total $3000
Removing, cleaning and replacing the coil 600.00.
Replacing the insulation with new rebate or Armaflex 1 inch insulation....900.00.
Installing a new digital thermostat 600.00
New motor and fan wheel 900.00
If I had a McQuay account I could check on prices. I don't. I also don't install. I'm strictly service.
I'd say 10k for a 6000 cfm FCU is way out of line.
3k-4k is more inline with an A/C air handler.
2nd estimate.....
600 to remove, clean and replace coil ?? Do you mean reinstall cleaned coil.... not a new one ?
900 for insulation. Gold insulation ?!!?!?!
600 for a thermostat..... no way.
900 for motor and wheel.... maybe but that's pushing it.
What is the problem...... the coil doesn't get cold.... it leaks.... it's clogged ?
What happened..... been neglected to long ?
I have no idea of equipment and labor prices in your area.
I would definitely get another estimate or two.
Thanks Pete (PJmax) for your reply with great input. To answer your questions I have additional information below from tech that inspected unit. It has not been serviced for some time and is dusty with bad smell. As a DIY person I am stunned by prices provided. I will get more estimates as you suggested. BTW, to get an inspection done the cost was $280. As to the thermostat explanation for high cost was that current thermostat is running on 110 volt and that conversion to 24 volt added to cost.> The coil is clogged but currently working and price is to clean inside and out.
Overview:
The air conditioning unit is a McQuay model HSE-060AR 6000 cfm chilled water unit. The unit is very dirty and in need of a deep cleaning and service. The unit when turned on has a very strong musty odor. The unit is not performing to standard with low split air temperatures. Split air temperatures were 73°F in and 65°F out with a temperature difference of 8°F. For units to have optimal cooling a temperature difference of 15°F to 20°F is best. I found no water or moisture originating from the unit.
The following issues were found.
The cooling coil has a fair amount of biological growth and dust buildup on it. I recommend removing the cooling coil to deep clean it and flush the coil. The chill water temperatures were 48°F in and 60°F out. With a temperature difference of 12°F. This is a sign of low water flow through the cooling coil where optimal temperature difference is no more than 10°F.
Found biological growth on insulation in the interior of the unit.
I recommend that the insulation either be replaced or disinfected and cleaned. This is most likely the cause of the musty odor coming from the unit.
Dust buildup on fan and fan housing.
Pete, could you tell me if the unit I have has design issues or can I expect it to work after servicing for many years to come? It is old now and I wonder if I should shop around for new unit and be set without additional servicing cost piling up in the future. The only thing that concerns me is not knowing individual manufacturers units reliability. I know that contractors will offer cheapest units they have in stock and not necessarily best stuff. Perhaps someone can suggest unit that I can order and have it installed assuming that i can find drop-in unit with minimal modifications to duct and otherwise.
Last edited by redsky33; 02-18-22 at 07:39 PM.
Reason: formatting and font
I know when I install McQuay units they use the 2000 cfm per ton instead of the 12000 BTU per ton numbering system in the model number.
I usually sell Magic Aire and International Environment Corporation units.
The fan needs to be able to cycle off when a cooling demand or heating demand is not present or you will grow mold in the unit. This was a common issue with pneumatic stats often found controlling chill water air handlers in the 80's but those are getting phased out. I highly recommend the new thermostat control.
Here are pictures of chiller. Switching to advanced mode allowed me to add images
.
Let me add that this unit has only cooling not heating since this in Hawaii
I recommend removing the cooling coil to deep clean it and flush the coil. The chill water temperatures were 48°F in and 60°F out. With a temperature difference of 12°F. This is a sign of low water flow through the cooling coil where optimal temperature difference is no more than 10°F.
The drain pan is galvanize steel and has heavy algae buildup inside and heavy corrosion.
I recommend cleaning out the algae in the pan as it could lead to future water leaks and drain blockages.
Found biological growth on insulation in the interior of the unit.
I recommend that the insulation either be replaced or disinfected and cleaned. This is most likely the cause of the musty odor coming from the unit.
Dust buildup on fan and fan housing.
I recommend that the dust be cleaned as it can lead to declined performance.
Thermostat is loose on the wall.
The thermostat either needs to be re-mounted or replaced. Newer digital thermostats are available for replacement. Thermostat still functions as it’s supposed to. Working in all three fan speeds and controlling temperature. The building does not have heating capabilities so the heat button will not work.
I have an old LG GOLD room air-conditioner, model number LWC 122 RH 4 in the wall of caravan and it is not working and can't find another one BUT someone has an LG GOLD room air conditioner Model number LWC 122 RH 2 in good working order, what I need to know is it the same size as the one I have so that I can just slide old one out and put the other one straight as really don't want to take frame etc out of caravan wall as it's in there solid,so am really looking for replacement that will fit straight in.
Really hoping someone might be able to help me.
ThanksRead More
Hi to all members of this interesting forum. I'm new member here and I find it very resourceful since I'm also DIY guy.
[color=#222222]But I have a question for experts here regarding something different.
I'm not familiar with technical english regarding air conditioners but I'll do my best to explain situation. There was one air conditioner which was 1 year out of order. Service crew came, put pressure gauge to measure pressure - it was 15 bar[/color][color=#c0392b](215 psi)[/color][color=#222222] (allegedly normal pressure in idle position). Then they turned on air conditioner, everything looked fine, no strange noises, nothing unusual.
Few minutes later pressure fell to 8 bar[/color][color=#c0392b](115 psi)[/color][color=#222222] and after that, without any warning, huge explosion in compressor area. Part of compressor was found 70 meters away. There was also fire from compressor oil and complete pipeline went missing - it blew it away. Service crew were injured but all survived. Before the explosion one of the crew noticed loose valves which indicated him that someone else was trying to repair the air conditioner before.
Loose valves were impossible if device was left untouched for 4-5 months in city area near the sea. He is guessing that someone was trying to repair air conditioner, first by pumping nitrogen into the system and left it there for months. If that's the case, why explosion few minutes after turning the device on?
I would suspect shortcut if compressor blew immediately after turning on, but he exploded minutes later, after working without any suspicious behaviour. What do you think happened?
There were evidence of tampering with device but no one can't explain why explosion minutes after turning on.
My best guess is that if extra nitrogen was in, it was burdening the system and when compressor started to put more pressure, system reached pressure maximum and exploded. But why was valve reading pressure falling and not increasing if that's the case?
Any ideas?[/color]Read More